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I want to try a different developer...

Another vote for XTOL. Film format is also relevant. I rarely use anything other than XTOL for 35mm and do most of my experimentation with 120 or sheet film where the "grain impact" is less important. Some would also argue the use of a tripod vs handholding is more critical to grain and perceptions of sharpness and smoothness than developer choice. Same goes for lens choice and aperture. Isn't it fun having so many variables to play with!
 
I am in that experimental phase I guess. I don't have a problem with sticking with something when I find it. I have gone to the photo gallery and looked at some photos by some of the people who have contributed to this thread. There are some photos that were taken by Brian Steinberger and his results are what my minds eye has seen. He has a shot called "round barn market" that is outstanding. That is what I am trying to get to. He used Neopan 400 and XTOL 1:1 as many of you have recommended.
I am sure many of you have also had great results, I just found Brians. He has another shot of a bridge that is really nice as well. Steve I could not find any of your photos. Tony Egan some of your shots of the monster guitar players are excellent. The ones I really liked were all in XTOL and were either Neopan 400 or Tri-X.
 
Good luck with the choices!

I might suggest the differences - grainwise - between TMax Developer and XTol may be so fine as to require a microscope to see. The main difference, from my work and from others' experience here, seems to be shadow detail and speed increase.

I made the choice to Rodinal due to sharpness, I just wanted it more than the grain improvement..although with fine grained films that isn't much of an issue, to my eyes.
 
It sounds like the typical "silver bullet" problem. That I have as well.

In fact I've got some xtol it in my cart at Freestyle, but I'm procrastinating about pushing the button, due to the overwhelming "stick with it" advice. I've been buying what I can get locally, but it seems that the dealers here cant seem to decide what they want me to use. So I'm thinking, go ahead, and go for it. Buy on line, and make yourself happy.
 
Strad, get a cookbook and go exotic. Keep your standby but begin to dabble with recipes that very few people work with. Hunt and hunt and hunt and find the tribes deep in the Amazon, so to speak.
 
(About D76 1+2 and 1+3)

See above post [the one with the Greek chorus]. That will still not get as fine a grain as XTOL.
True, it actually gives more visible grain, but will be sharper than with stock or 1+1 D76. Odd dilutions are more exotic than XTOL.
 
Chris, I like the way you think!! Experimenting doesn't really cost anything other than the time and a few dollers for some XTOL or whatever.. As long as you keep notes so as to not get confused. The other thing is to work with the "selection" for a long enough period of time to actually get valid results. Tim,if you "press" the button other than the $10 for the XTOL and some time what will it cost you???

I will make sure that when I do try something else that it is not on a roll of film that has very important photos on it. If that is the case stay with what you know.
 
Hey Barry,

Replenished Xtol.

I'm having great, consistent results and so easy to use.

I use a 1.75 glass bottle for the replenished solution and a wine box for the stock.

I use a 1 liter (4-roll 35mm) stainless tank but normally I only have 1-2 rolls at a time to do, I never do 4 because I want the reels to slide some as part of my agitation.

Regardless of the number of rolls (1, 2, or 3), I fill the tank with a full liter. While the developer is in the tank I replenish my bottle with 70ml of stock if I do 1 roll, 140ml if I do two, 210ml if I do three. I pour back as much of the used Xtol into the bottle as will fit and dispose of the balance.

This makes for very efficient use of the chemicals and provides similar developing advantages as diluting.
 
You have one big advantage over many people...you're achieving impressive results with D-76. For you it's your "standard." Now any film / developer combination you try you can compare. Most people switching combinations do so because they're unhappy with their current results. Not so in your case so you have the "luxury" of comparing the really subtle differences that a developer can impart on an image. These subtleties aren't confined to the overall look, but often to the rendition of specific types of subject. You mauy well end up using different combinations for different subjects. It can be an eye opener.

Personally, I'm an Xtol and Rodinal / TMX and Tri-X fan. But I keep trying other combinations to see if I'm missing out.

Have fun with it.

Bob H
 
D-76 is a superb general developer. If you want to minimize grain, then use stock. Also, as suggested, give XTOL a try; another outstanding developer. I use both at 1:1. XTOL seems to have more perceived sharpness and an edge on shadow detail, D-76 a tad softer. At print viewing distances, I can't tell the difference. Edwal FG7 isn't mentioned much -- I used it a long time ago; it's an underrated general developer that also works well -- easy to mix and use.

I would've suggested Rodinal for use with the 100-125 range films (pull them about a third stop, as there's some loss of speed with this developer) -- it leads with an open and wide array of mid-tones. Although you state that you'd prefer to minimize grain, give it a try sometime; it's a different look. Colin's suggestion for TMAX developer is a good one (DD-X from Ilford could be an alternative). I used HC-110 a few times, years ago; it's a fine developer, but not my cup of tea for 35mm. It's outstanding for medium and large format. There are lots of choices (as well as numerous exotic concoctions better reserved for larger film format sizes, as you'd begin to see clear differences in personality). Everyone has personal preferences as to look and feel; one is not "better" than the other -- far from it.

For 35mm, I use XTOL the vast majority of time, and have D-76 and Rodinal on hand, depending on the projects on which I'm working. I rarely venture away from Tri-X; sometimes I'll use Neopan 400 and Plus-X. I keep it simple, and focus (no pun intended) on the final image outcome later.

Enjoy.
 
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I also vote for careful temperature control. What temp, dilution and development method are you using?..EC
 
Tim,if you "press" the button other than the $10 for the XTOL and some time what will it cost you???

It could be quite expensive actually. When the lil lady of the house sees the brown truck pull up, she starts thinking equal time. Once I had a box arrive from B&H that cost me a trip to Maui.
 
It could be quite expensive actually. When the lil lady of the house sees the brown truck pull up, she starts thinking equal time. Once I had a box arrive from B&H that cost me a trip to Maui.

Yup. I've been married thirty years, (I always introduce her as my "First Wife" ) but I've never quite understood how that works! It's always seemed like a quid pro quo, quo, quo, quo, quo..........to me

Bob H
 
Don't neglect your chem and wash temps. Shocking the film even a relatively small amount can cause larger (not more) grain. Excessive differences in pH should be avoided also.

******
As Mike sez. Another old trick is to keep wet times to an absolute minimum.
 
?????. Much of his work was done in the
30s, 40s, 50s, 60s, 70s, ..... . When did
HC110 come out? Dan
*****
1964 OR 1965, IIRC.
 
D-76 is an excellent developer. If you want to try something else, you need to consider what you want to be different. If you want to stay with the same general look as D-76, but maybe a little different, HC-110 and Xtol are both excellent for PXP and probably Acros. Xtol is somewhat finer grain and sharper, HC-110 is just different, maybe a bit more contrasty. DD-X might also be interesting - along the same line as Xtol. You might also look at D-76 undiluted vs. D-76 1+1. If you want the grain to stand out a bit more (not actually be bigger, but just stand out more), you might try Rodinal or one of its clones. Be sure to compare the results you get with any new developer to what you get with D-76, then choose what you like. There are lots of good developers out there to choose from. D-76 happens to be one of the best.