I now have a LF camera!

stradibarrius · Feb 16, 2011

I traded an extra Mamiya M645 and lens for a Calumet CC-400 with a Schneider 180mm/f/5.6 lens, 3 film backs/holders and a Poloroid back, hard case and dark cloth. 20 sheets of 100 speed film. So I'm ready to go!
Of course I have some basic questions to get myself started.
Is this basic sequence correct...

1-I take my light reading and make a decision on f/stop and shutter speed
2-I open the aperture so I can see through the lens
3-compose and focus
4-release the aperture blades
5-insert the film holder and remove the dark slide
6-release the shutter
7-replace the dark slide

Am I doing good so far???

jp498 · Feb 16, 2011

Almost. You're doing good.

2. Set shutter speed and cock it if needed. Open the shutter AND aperture.

Most of the lenses have a lever to open the shutter for the purpose of composing without needing b/t. Sometimes this lever just works, sometimes the shutter has to be cocked for it to work. And the shutter speed should be set before cocking it.

4. Close the shutter and set aperture according to decision in step 1.

7. Flip over (so you know it's been exposed) darkslide and re-insert.

The easiest mistake for me to make is to not set the aperture in #4. Essentially shooting wide open instead of at the proper aperture.

Ian Grant · Feb 16, 2011

Better to take the light meter reading after you've composed the picture and then immediately CLOSE the shutter, STOP the lens down to chosen aperture, SET the shutter speed, COCK the shutter. LOOK see that everythings set, and that the shutters closed !!!!

Only then insert the Film holder, remove slide, and expose, TURN slide around so black edge faces the lens and re-insert and remove film holder

Ian

John Kasaian · Feb 16, 2011

You got it. If your going to use any movements you'll need to refocus afterwards.
Now go make some photographs!

stradibarrius · Feb 16, 2011

Why are LF shots usually made at small apertures? I assume it has something to do use DOF characteristics of LF lens???

David William White · Feb 16, 2011

While inspecting the GG under the darkcloth, close down the iris until your required DoF is achieved on your illuminated subject.

I also wanted to mention that I was taught to test cock & fire before pulling the darkslide, especially when strobes are hooked in, just to make sure everything is working --- film = $$.

P.S. Can't wait to see violins close up!

Paul Sorensen · Feb 16, 2011

stradibarrius said:
Why are LF shots usually made at small apertures? I assume it has something to do use DOF characteristics of LF lens???

Yeah, it is because DOF is tied to lens focal length and 180mm lenses have limited DOF. Basically it is more about the larger format than it is about the lens, per se. For the same reason digital p&s cameras have huge depth of field because they use sensors the size of grains of sand. (exaggeration alert)

removed account4 · Feb 16, 2011

stradibarrius said:
Why are LF shots usually made at small apertures? I assume it has something to do use DOF characteristics of LF lens???

barry
there is a 25 page thread about this, raging right now
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

have fun with your new rig!
john

ntenny · Feb 16, 2011

jp498 said:
The easiest mistake for me to make is to not set the aperture in #4. Essentially shooting wide open instead of at the proper aperture.

Me too. I'm also very good at taking long exposures on T instead of B, so that the shutter is unbeknownst to me still open after I release the plunger.

Failing to reverse the darkslide before reinserting is another good one.

-NT

Sirius Glass · Feb 16, 2011

Now you are screwed! GAS will set in!

Steve

I now have a LF camera!

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