I Need A New Tripod

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Arthurwg

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For the last several years I've been using a Gitzo 1227 Mk 2 Mountaineer tripod for all my work, including a light 4x5 and pinhole. Ball head is a Linhof Profil 11. Great for travel and light enough for hiking. But now that I'm using a 500mm F8 lens on my Hasselblad I think I need something more robust. I'm considering a Gitzo 2542 or a RRS TVC-33 Versa 3 MK 2. I want to stick with three leg sections. Both very expensive but I've reached the " might as well be hung for a sheep as a lamb" stage of life. I want also to move on to a Linhof Profil III head. Any suggestions?
 

Sirius Glass

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Check out the Induro carbon fiber tripods which are much less expensive than the big names and compatible.
https://indurogear.com/
 

Alan Gales

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Buying a tripod is definitely a personal choice just like buying a camera. It's best to look at all options before making a decision. Since you didn't mention FLM you should also look at them.

https://www.flmcanada.com

FLM are high end carbon fiber tripods and heads from Germany. Ari is the North American distributer for FLM products. He is also a member here on Photrio. I personally know Ari from here and Large Format Photography Forum plus my wife, daughter and I had the pleasure of eating dinner with him and his wife once. If you have any questions about FLM products then you can contact Ari at FLM or private message him on Photrio. You will find him very easy to talk to and very knowledgable.
 

wiltw

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The Linhof Profi II is plenty of head, there is no real reason to upgrade the head to the Profi III...
  • the Profi II with QR supports 17.6 lb, while the Profi III supports 22 lb.
  • the Profi II with QR weighs 1.6 lb. while the Profi III weighs 2.8 lb
The heavier Profi III will mean that with a strap on your shoulder the tripod is much more likely to naturally carry HEAD DOWN.

I used the Profi II quite happily for many decades with a Bogen 3221 and put my medium format SLR atop it with a 250mm lens with 2X teleconvertor, But when I switched to the lighter carbon fiber Gitzo 2530 I needed to improve the balance with the head, so I switched to a RRS BH-40 ballhead.

I never sold the Profi II. I wish I could find a use for it!

I suggest that you find a set of legs and use the Profi II on top of that, so you have a direct comparison of the Gitzo legs you have, and decide if you really made a move forward with the new legs. If the new legs prove to be as good or better than the existing Gitzo, only then would I consider whether the Profi II is adequate for your needs. Otherwise you have to look only at the composite of new legs + new head, and to figure out where any new deficiency comes from!
 
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eli griggs

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Gitzo aluminum tripod.
If you're carrying heavy, kit & lenses you are going to want a tripod that 'grounds' your kit, instead of giving lightweight performance.

One of the Gitzo Giants, studio performance tripods, even the smallest , of which, will give great service, especially as you are reaching up in formats, where it will still have great utility.

Hunters are told, "Bring enough gun!" And like wise I suggest you 'bring enough tripod', there is only so much you can do to 'Fix' an inadequate tripod in the field, and every second of trying, are seconds no taking photographs and a diversion from you're true purpose.

Sure, lots of folks 'get by', but with what you've got invested in kit, time and travel, is 'getting by' what you're about?

IMO.
 
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MattKing

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As one who has more tripods than I should, I must confess that every time I see this thread title, I think of Huey Lewis and the News:
 

baachitraka

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500mm - must be a very special case?
 

Sirius Glass

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500mm - must be a very special case?

It is kinda heavy and needs to be held steady. Hand holding is not going to work. Especially with a 2XE extender.
 

Alan Gales

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It is kinda heavy and needs to be held steady. Hand holding is not going to work. Especially with a 2XE extender.

I once had a Pentax 400mm FA lens for 645n and 645nll which I bought to flip. Definitely not something that you want to hand hold!
 

Sirius Glass

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I'd just upgrade your head to a pan-tilt head like the Gitzo 2270 M pan-tilt head. It's a much more stable platform than a ball head, and will support your 500mm lens extremely well.

I have never met a ball head that I liked although some have enough controllable resistance to not flop around.
 

Lachlan Young

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Get an aluminium Series 5 Gitzo tripod if you can find one. And look into getting a Linhof levelling head rather than the ball head.
 

Kodachromeguy

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The alternate viewpoint: As the guys above noted, you probably do not "need" the Linhof Profi III, but it sure is nice. Watch the big auction site, and once in awhile, one comes up for sale at a reasonable price.
The older real Gitzo tripods from France are great!

_DSF5089_Hasselblad501CM_20180120_resized.JPG
 

Paul Howell

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I don't know about needing a ball head, you are shooting 6X6 a standard head should work, in terms of a tripod, unless weight is a deciding factor go old school, Husky not light but very steady, not a light weight. I've had mine for going on 40 years, never an issue. My Brand New View 4X5 has a roating back so dont need a ball head, but when shooting 6X9 is usually use a ball head.
 
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Arthurwg

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I do have a Manfrotto aluminum tripod, a 3221. It seems very sturdy, partly because the legs are spread at a very wide angle. But it's too heavy for me to carry when hiking and too big for travel. I also have a Manfrotto 410 geared head, which I have come to detest. Very slow and difficult to adjust and generally a PITA. I don't seem to have any trouble with my Linhof ball head, which works perfectly.
 

eli griggs

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My Davis and Sanford "Floating Tripod" 'B' has a large, iron or steel head, which clamps onto a large tube (Pneumatic) center post, which reminds me of the Gitzo Rational #4 Head, only with a much larger plate, which could carry a 8 X 10in. or 11 x 14 view camera with little trouble, IMO.

Depending on the thickness of your center post, you might want to see if they made such a tripod head that would fit an Aluminum Gitzo Giant, if you go that rout, until you decide on a more expensive floating, ball or three or four way head.

After awhile I'll take a measurement of mine and post that as well.
 

wiltw

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I do have a Manfrotto aluminum tripod, a 3221. It seems very sturdy, partly because the legs are spread at a very wide angle. But it's too heavy for me to carry when hiking and too big for travel. I also have a Manfrotto 410 geared head, which I have come to detest. Very slow and difficult to adjust and generally a PITA. I don't seem to have any trouble with my Linhof ball head, which works perfectly.

And especially in view of your comment in blue, why on earth are you even thinking about going to a ballhead which is 1.2 lbs more than what you own?!
 

baachitraka

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It is kinda heavy and needs to be held steady. Hand holding is not going to work. Especially with a 2XE extender.

I can imagine how heavy it could be but I wonder its application and in 35mm equivalent its 300mm.

Is it used to capture wild life (BIF)?
 

Sirius Glass

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I can imagine how heavy it could be but I wonder its application and in 35mm equivalent its 300mm.

Is it used to capture wild life (BIF)?

The 35mm 300mm can be handheld for wildlife photography, the 500mm Hasselblad has too great a swing weight and cannot be handheld for any photography, only tripod mounted.
 

eli griggs

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The 35mm 300mm can be handheld for wildlife photography, the 500mm Hasselblad has too great a swing weight and cannot be handheld for any photography, only tripod mounted.

Yes but the larger negative/slide is the reason for already investing in the kit he owns, though I see your point.

It may be he is shooting dangerous animals, bears, moose, and others where the larger image enables a safer spacing between target and shooter for valid reason, such as a loud mirror slap, even in a padded 'quite bag' or, perhaps he is shooting landscapes and again, wants to reach out with the 6 cm square for best quality results.

I once owned a Canon 300mm .4L, which was great for photographing overhead, fast darting sea birds, handheld on a F1 AE, with an actual motor-drive.

The images were great but nowhere as nice as what can be had with the Hasselblad 500 cm, etc.

IMO.
 

Sirius Glass

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Yes but the larger negative/slide is the reason for already investing in the kit he owns, though I see your point.

It may be he is shooting dangerous animals, bears, moose, and others where the larger image enables a safer spacing between target and shooter for valid reason, such as a loud mirror slap, even in a padded 'quite bag' or, perhaps he is shooting landscapes and again, wants to reach out with the 6 cm square for best quality results.

I once owned a Canon 300mm .4L, which was great for photographing overhead, fast darting sea birds, handheld on a F1 AE, with an actual motor-drive.

The images were great but nowhere as nice as what can be had with the Hasselblad 500 cm, etc.

IMO.

Mirror slap is a myth. I use the 500mm lens and the 500mm lens with the 2XE for wildlife, both with a tripod.
 

eli griggs

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Mirror slap is a myth. I use the 500mm lens and the 500mm lens with the 2XE for wildlife, both with a tripod.

I believe you've made an innocent assumption about what I said about mirror slap.

It does exist, you hear it every time to release or pre-release an SLR, for example my F1s and the Hasselblad 500 series.

In the case of the Hasselblad, its contribution to the famous Hasselblad shutter release sound that is well love by many, including myself.

Where you have made the assumption is assuming that by mentioning the mirror slap, I did so WITHOUT ( I hate spell checkers) a pejorative that denotes the idea that that slap, degrades image and camera function.

I do no subscribe to that particular outlook, and have never found that a problem with that system.

In plain English, there is no issue in mirror slap, but the slap does exist.

IMO.

Cheers, Be Safe, Be Happy and Godspeed to you and all others.
 
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Arthurwg

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Almost ready to buy the RRS. There goes the stimulus check.
 

DREW WILEY

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Throw away the ballhead. It's the weakest link as far as vibration is concerned. Get a much heavier tripod with a platform-style top, no center column, and bolt your camera right to the top, no head needed. That's how I get such crisp shots with a 300mm lens on my Pentax 6x7, which happens to be a pretty big lens itself. I ordinarily use the same larger wooden Ries tripod as for my 8x10 camera, but have also modified a Feisol CT-3472 carbon fiber unit for comparable applications at a third the weight. I have the original Gitzo Mountaineer CF too, which is quite a bit stronger than their current equivalent, and it's fine for a 4x5 field camera use, along with MF teles up to 200mm, but not for the kind of torque vectors and vibration issues introduced by long teles. It makes a real difference doing it right. I can't comment on Hassie mirror slap. It is a fact of life in the bigger Pentax, but controllable either via mirror lockup, or simply shooting at faster speeds which allow the curtain shutter to do its thing before the mirror hits. My older brother once sold Rollei gear, and would demonstrate how smooth an SL66 mirror was by placing the camera on a table, then a dime on edge atop the camera, and then trip the shutter. The dime didn't even tip over. If you did that with a Pentax 6x7, the dime would land about four blocks away, and earthquake monitors in San Francisco would start jittering the Richter scale.
 
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