I know I "messed up," but please help me develop Tri-X at 1600

Eggvillan said:

As i understand it, i'm not really allowed to ask about any digital stuff here? Moreover, i dont own a copy of PS or any digital editing software.... so i guess i'll save any such relevant questions for somewhere else

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Thanks!
(Fast Stone Image Viewer - free download - and you didn't hear this from me).

Eggvillan said:

Honestly, i'm really not too sure what this means, so i wasnt worried about it. But now that you mention it, i'm paranoid and will spend the next 8 hours reading about it

I'm no pro. I probably will never be a pro. I just like to "create" things, and i like to feel a sense of ownership over the things i've "created." My coffee table might not be the best coffee table in the world, but i built it, so my wife and i love it way more than something we could buy at the store. We've been in our "new house" for over a year now and have absoutely nothing on the walls. I'm sure we'll appreciate some photographs i've taken and developed more than we'd appreciate a crappy print we bought from Bed Bath and Beyond.

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no worries

what i was getting at is that sometimes when you process your "extra" like you will be doing
to pick up the slack because you gave it a litte too little light, the dark parts on the negative
( the parts that are "whitish and whitish grey" in the print ) get too dark and don't transmit light through
as well ( blocked up ) while d76 is a safe bet and a fall back and "plain vanilla" developer, for a lot of people
and a great way to start, it isn't as "forgiving" as sprint, so in other words with sprint, the stuff that would be blocked-up parts
with d76, won't be so blocked up so you will get more than stark white tone ( no matter the process you use to make your prints )
... not sure if that makes sense ...

good luck !
john