I Hate plastic

[Markok765]

Ok, this is what happened: I was loading films onto a paterson reel and it wouldnt load. i tried SO MANY times and it couldnt work. then i tried to load onto a diffrent plastic reel. Then the other reel fell into the sink with the film partly attached. the reel and the film got wet. i finnaly loaded the reels under-water. i tried ss in my class witha scrap roll and its So east and reliable.
Im going to get ss reels and tanks tommorow

 

[Markok765]

Has anything similar happened to you? Should i make a poll about if you use ss or plastic?

 

[Markok765]

Not only that, The emulsion is so soft

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

Do a search and you should turn up several threads on the topic.

The short version--Paterson reels work if they are absolutely dry, and since you can get them cheaply on eBay, you can have lots of them. With some developers and agitation methods, you may get uneven development.

SS takes more practice, and bent reels can be a problem, but once you get the hang of it, many people (myself included) find them faster and more reliable. If you're buying new reels, buy Hewes reels. They're worth the extra cost.

 

[Donald Miller]

I really think that a poll is in order. You might offer suggestions of different substances to lubricate the tracks in the reel. KY Jelly, Petroleum Jelly, Glycerin, and White Grease come to mind.

You could follow this with a poll about choices of cleaners to clean the above mentioned substances from the film after developing.

These polls might prove to be really enlightening. One never knows when time will dictate that we carry a roll film camera again.

 

[JLP]

Had the same incident happen and my solution was Jobo

jan

 

[mark]

Lubricate the tracks??????

 

[Troy]

I usually use Hewes SS reels for 35mm and Paterson for 120. They both have quirks. My SS tank lids leak but the Patersons use more developer. It's always a trade-off with photography... like shutter speed for depth of field. Ain't it great?

 

[Markok765]

SS is easy to load after you practive a few times. just bend the film and rotoate the reel

 

[Changeling1]

Not only that, The emulsion is so soft

Before using plastic reels dry them as thoroughly as you can using a paper towel. Then.... take a blow dryer on hot and blow dry those reels for one minute each on both sides. Keep your hand moving back and forth with the dryer to dry the whole thing well. If you hold the dryer too long on one area it will just get too hot. Then, let them cool down for awhile and you're ready to go. It only takes one small drop of water to turn a simple task of loading a reel into a complete disaster. Even if the reels appear to be dry and have been sitting for a few days still give them the heat treatment and be sure they are really 100% dry.

 

[matti]

You serious? My plastic loads without problem if wet. I try not to do that if I am going to use Diafine, though.

/matti

 

[josh.]

Another vote for SS. Although I have never used plastic reels, I have found it extremely easy to load film onto ss reels after a little practice. Practice first in daylight with a scrap roll of film, then after you get the feel for it try with your eyes closed or in the darkroom. Never have had a problem.

 

[Bob F.]

Plastic reels work fine if you use them when completely dry and do not allow wash-aid to dry on them. Stainless steel work fine too as long as they are not bent.

Hewes make reels that fit the Paterson tank, so if you want to go down that route you will not have to buy a new tank too - just make sure you get the correct version of reel. Luckily, Hewes seem to be the favoured choice amongst those that use s.s. I've always used plastic and never had a problem that wasn't operator error.

Cheers, Bob.

 

[gnashings]

I hate when my limbs grow faster than my body and I am an awkward teenager

Just another case of "I f'd up, so its the stupid (insert chosen bit of kit here)'s fault".
Plastic reels work fine, I have never had an issue with 35mm or 120. Mine are always dry, so I can't say what happens otherwise, but they work just fine. I have screwed up a couple of times (not catastrophically, but frustrating none the less), but the reels have not.
If I learned on SS I'd probably feel the same way about them, as I am sure thousands upon thousands of photographers can't be wrong about them.
Its a matter of comfort, familiarity and preference - but definitely not a matter of some inherent superiority or inferiority.
I know, you're at an age where things have to either be absolutely without fault and God's gift to their chosen field OR the exact opposite, a curse and a bane of your existance. Unfortunately, even black and white photos are not black and white - they have shades of gray. Growing up is learning to see that. Learning to see that leads to sounding more mature. Sounding more mature leads to people on internet forums taking you far more seriously. See where I am going with this?
Oh yeah - there is also the phrase: "I screwed up, it was my fault". You prefer SS? By all means, use them. But don't think (like the wording of your poll suggests) that you have graduated to something that sets you apart from beginners and wannabes.
And please, please, go see the thread you yourself posted asking about the incessant polls... The ANSWER IS THERE.
Have fun with your new reels, I am sure they will work just fine.

Peter.

 

[ijsbeer]

the good old patterson do the job very wel for me. have 3 of them 2 2 reel size and 1 1 reel size.

 

[Fotohuis]

I am using Jobo reels.

Check your reel. Damaged, contaminated (wetting agent, silver) or wet plastic reels are causing problems soon or later.

Do not use mechanical stuff for cleaning your plastic reels.
Dental cleaning tabs or blix (RA-4) are working the best.
Clean your reel extensively with water if contaminated with wetting agent.
Do not use overheated water, it will damage your reel.

Easy loading can depend on the actual weather circumstances. Loading a polyester based film under high himidity circumstances can be tricky.

I can load a 35mm film within 10s in a plastic Jobo reel. With a bit luck when a 120 rollfilm is not curling to much 2X 120 rollfilm on one 1501 Jobo reel, using the red clip. But this will not help you when suffering with a certain film and reel.
Some films are loading easier depending on their base, thickness, curling a.s.o. but never force a film on a reel. It won't help and always damage the film more or less.

and yes, sometimes you need a new reel, not on e-bay but a brand new one or a developer tank which is not leaking due to all misuse in the past years.
For the rest: Read my signature

Best regards,

Robert

 

[rjas]

i used to go to lab class so hung over i couldnt even open my locker


still managed to load plastic reels in the dark, which usually had nothing to do with my school work. i love plastic reels, stainless steel sucks.

 

[Steve Smith]

This is the method I have used the past few times with 120 film on a plastic reel.

Dry thoroughly using a hair dryer as already suggested. Spray spiral surfaces very lightly with a wax furniture polish (such as Mr Sheen in UK). Wipe off all traces of polish with a cloth getting into the tracks with cotton buds, etc. to wipe off all traces of polish from the reel. Just enough is left to allow the film to run in smoothly all the way.

I expect a lot of people will suggest that this is not a good idea due to possible interaction between the developer and any remaining polish but I have had no problem with it and since I do a pre-soak, I think this removes any residue before the developer is poured in.

I intend to do this all the time now as it transforms a 10 minute wrestling match in a changing bag with accompanied swearing into a two minute easy process.

The idea of using polish was from a tip I picked up about spraying plastic curtain tracks to make them non-stick.


Steve.

 

[Monophoto]

I don't dislike stainless. But many years ago I bought a pair of Durst "makrolon" plastic reels that are the same dimension as steel and also load from the inside out just like steel. But they are less frustrating to load. Sadly, they are no longer available.

The problem with stainless is that they are made using wire - which has a round cross-section. As a result, the sides of the grooves in the spiral are curved outward. The consequence of that is that, as you are loading the reel, there is a tendency for the film to want so slip out of the groove. With practice, and a little luck, you can learn to compensate for this tendency and load successfully.

The Durst reels were molded from a clear plastic material, and the spirals had a square cross-section. That means that the walls of the grooves are straight and square - not curved. As a result, there is less tendency for the film to try to slip out of the groove.

I still have my two Durst reels, as well as several stainless steel reels - but I prefer the Durst.

Regardless of the material, it is important that the reels are kept clean. A helpful suggestion that I learned many years ago is that the perfect reel-cleaining tool is a recycled tooth brush.

 

[Neal]

Dear Marko,

How do you clean your reels? I simply rinse mine in hot water and I never have trouble loading. I also have plenty of extras so that I know they are bone dry. I do use a changing bag rather than work by the sink. No chance of getting water on the reel before loading.

Neal Wydra

 

[jim appleyard]

My plastic reels load just fine if I do it with the lights on. The problem is I get very dense negs...

 

[Papa Tango]

I really think that a poll is in order. You might offer suggestions of different substances to lubricate the tracks in the reel. KY Jelly, Petroleum Jelly, Glycerin, and White Grease come to mind.

You could follow this with a poll about choices of cleaners to clean the above mentioned substances from the film after developing.

These polls might prove to be really enlightening. One never knows when time will dictate that we carry a roll film camera again.

Donald, surely you are joking about using the aforementioned lubricants. They are very much clumpy solids that will float about in the tank and should never be used at all, as they unevenly coat the film. Even such a thing as a smattering of olive oil on a syringe plunger led to a terrible chastisement here in the Pug.

Actually, WD-40 is the best. Sprayed liberally on the reel and on both sides of the film, it even gets in where the little balls are and makes them run smooth. Cleanup of the film is a breeze, as the lubricant spreads evenly and one can just run a paper towel down the strip to smooth it out. Cleaning the tank and reel can be done with a quality solvent such as toluene. It's best to let them soak for an hour or so. These methods hasten the move to stainless...

 

[Papa Tango]

But seriously though...

I have noticed that both paterson and yankee tanks have run into a cheaper design and quality control problem over the past several dozen years. The funnel top on my last patersons both does not want to stay put in the detent position, even though the nibs are there to do so. Both of these were bought new in the past year. On a slightly older one, the funnel top locks down smooth. I discovered this defect in an "oh shit" moment when during a pour the top fell off and the film started to slide away. Only lost one frame...

IIRC, both makes of tank had a shiny stainless ball, and a much more smooth takeup. I use both the system 3 and 4, and really still have no problems with them in 35mm. Occassionally, with a particularly curly 120 film (the european stuff) one side begins to track whilst the other slips out. Take time again and use a technique of pulling the film in with fingers underneath to get it started instead of trying to push it in.

Someone gave me a couple small single roll yankee 35 tanks as they jumped out of film for the OTHER form. I note that the speed-o-matic reel in one does not even have a ball or spring clip, instead using a fixed levered catch to advance the film and hold steady using the sprocket holes. The other yankee is like a stainless tank (but plastic) with a stainless reel. I remember using ss many years back and they worked well. This tiny little tank seems perfect for a one roll-one shot rodinal run. I only wonder how long it will be before I shoot 35 again...

 

[Shmoo]

Paper please...ooooooh, you mean reels. Sorrrrry....

 

[srs5694]

I prefer stainless reels because I've had too many rolls jam when loading on plastic reels. I suspect the problem has to do with humidity, and may interact with film type. (Ilford seems worst in this respect.) I'm not positive of this, though; my sample size is too small and I've certainly done no controlled experiments. My stainless tanks also require just 250ml of solution to develop a single 35mm roll, compared to 325ml for an AP tank I've got.

That said, just for kicks I recently purchased a plastic Russian developing tank. (Here's the eBay auction, if you want to see what it looks like.) Like my AP and Paterson reels, the Russian reels have jammed on me once or twice in humid conditions, and so this tank won't be replacing my stainless steel tank and Hewes reels as my standard tank, but the Russian tank does have its advantages. It handles 16mm, 35mm, and medium format film by assembling parts in different orders, and the design allows you to loosen the parts a bit, which seems to help clear jams when they occur. 250ml of solution seems to cover the reels (barely), so it's less of a chemistry guzzler than my AP tank. Overall, I think I prefer it to my AP tank and reels, although as I've said, I prefer my Hewes stainless steel reels and stainless steel tank to either of these plastic tanks.