I came across a nice Olympus OM-1 today.

[pbromaghin]

I came across a beautiful Olympus OM-1 today at a thrift store for $30. Cosmetically perfect, snappy shutter, looks good inside and out. It only fired at a single speed, I assume that is because there was no battery. Is that a valid assumption? Depending on what people say, I might go back on Monday during lunch and buy it. It's about the last thing I need, to start another whole system, but I have a coworker who might want it. She waxes nostalgic about her OM-1 she bought new and had stolen 30 years ago. GAS is setting in as this is being written.

 

[Richard Man]

You should be able to buy a good OM-1 for $50-$60. They are totally manual and do not need battery to shoot at all speed.

 

[pbromaghin]

I was afraid of that. Thank you, Richard.

 

[pbromaghin]

DUUHHHHH. I was turning the ISO selector, not the shutter speed ring. I just assumed it was set up like my Minolta's with the shutter speed wheel next to the shutter release button and the winder lever. I'll have to go in on Monday and check it out again. The mechanical nature of it, the fact that it needs no batteries, is the attraction.

 

[frank]

Yeah, that huge ASA knob! That was about the only design element on that camera that I didn't like.

 

[BetterSense]

I have contemplated removing my ASA knob altogether, filling and filing the top cover smooth again and repainting it (I never use the meter anyway).

Last I checked, the going rate for good OM1's was a lot more than $50...a few years ago, sure, but nowadays if sellers know what they have you will have to cough up more than $50 for a good working OM1, in my experience.

 

[pbromaghin]

I always figure any good, "prosumer" level 35mm camera, in good shape and usable, from the 70's-90's is $100, more or less. Just a nice round number. The difference is a few Happy Meals and I never try to get the last dollar on a deal. If I get it for less, great. The difference isn't going to affect my life. Besides, I am not a collector. Any old camera I buy, it's because I want to use it. What's $50 compared to all the other expenses of shooting? This pristine OM-1 at $30 is a steal, if working correctly.

 

[mgb74]

Also, check for evidence of deteriorating foam etching the prism.

 

[pbromaghin]

Also, check for evidence of deteriorating foam etching the prism.

What would one look for to know that?

 

[mgb74]

What would one look for to know that?

On some OM-1 models, there was lightproofing foam in the prism. This foam deteriorates over time and etches the prism. You see wisps of black when you look through the viewfinder.

Info here and (there was a url link here which no longer exists) and here, as well as at other sites. Do a search on "OM-1 prism foam" and you'll find lots of info.

 

[Alan Gales]

Yeah, that huge ASA knob! That was about the only design element on that camera that I didn't like.

Frank, they made it big so us old farts can read it!

I bought my daughter one and she loves it. She has a Zuiko 28mm, 50mm and a Vivitar Series 1 70mm to 210mm zoom lens.

 

[pbromaghin]

Oh my. Excellent information. Thank you, mgb.

 

[Xmas]

On some OM-1 models, there was lightproofing foam in the prism. This foam deteriorates over time and etches the prism. You see wisps of black when you look through the viewfinder.

Info here and (there was a url link here which no longer exists) and here, as well as at other sites. Do a search on "OM-1 prism foam" and you'll find lots of info.

Including the information if the prism is cleaned at the next service the problem dissappears.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Before buying, pop the back open and examine the shutter while you wind it. Keep the back open while you test the speeds, checking that the amount of light coming through changes appropriately. Also want to make sure shutter doesn't stay capped at the highest speed (i.e. no light).

I'm assuming there's no lens. If there's a lens, do the above tests at varying apertures to ensure it's stopping down before the shutter trips. For example, at 1/1000 and f/16, pointing at a bright light and looking through the open back, you should very briefly see a flash of light through the fully stopped down aperture.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Check the prices of OM-1 bodies at KEH, some cheaper than this, most barely a few $ more. And all those come with 60-day warranty and 14-day no-questions-asked return policy too.

 

[albada]

I've found that OM-10s are a good source of identical prisms for OM-1s damaged by top-foam.
I've replaced the prisms in several OM-1s this way.
Also, the focusing screen in an OM-10 fits in an OM-1, albeit without the convenient tab.

Mark Overton

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

I've found that OM-10s are a good source of identical prisms for OM-1s damaged by top-foam.
I've replaced the prisms in several OM-1s this way.
Also, the focusing screen in an OM-10 fits in an OM-1, albeit without the convenient tab.

Mark Overton

No need for all that surgery: all you need is to clean the affected prism and remove the old foam from the top of the prism.
Besides after 30 years, whatever damage the old foam has done to the prism, it will not do more.
I have several OM-1 and OM-2 with a few marks at the bottom of the screen from the perished foam.
I'm not bothering cleaning it: it will not deteriorate further.
It isn't needed, but some people in their ignorance just panic.

 

[Richard Man]

Yes, I may buy my second daughter an OM-2N for her photo class and the KEH price seems to be around $60-$70 for that. While I have not used my OM-$T for a while, just don't think I will ever give that up....

 

[wblynch]

In my experience with dozens of OM-1's and OM-1N's there is rarely a shutter problem. I did get one parts OM-1 that has a broken shutter ribbon and, though the curtain edge is crooked, it is still light tight and works!

Oh yeah, I forgot. On that one the B setting doesn't work but falls back to 1/60th.

So your chances of getting a good OM-1 are excellent.

 

[pbromaghin]

Boy, people really do like their OM-1's. I'm looking forward to checking it out again tomorrow.

 

[albada]

No need for all that surgery: all you need is to clean the affected prism and remove the old foam from the top of the prism.
Besides after 30 years, whatever damage the old foam has done to the prism, it will not do more.
I have several OM-1 and OM-2 with a few marks at the bottom of the screen from the perished foam.
I'm not bothering cleaning it: it will not deteriorate further.
It isn't needed, but some people in their ignorance just panic.

It will not do more damage? How do you know that? When repairing the damage, I have seen how much area is damaged on top, and sometimes it has only started to penetrate. Over the years, that penetration is likely to get worse due to the constant solvent-action of the tar-like foam.

I prefer a clean view, so I replace any prism that shows deterioration in the viewfinder. Once the top is off, replacing the prism is little additional work, so might as well do it.

Mark Overton

 

[Alan Gales]

Boy, people really do like their OM-1's. I'm looking forward to checking it out again tomorrow.

It's always been like that. Women especially like them because they are small and fit in their hands better. I've got average size hands for a man but my old little Contax 139 always felt great in my hands. A lot of people like smaller cameras.

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

It will not do more damage? How do you know that? When repairing the damage, I have seen how much area is damaged on top, and sometimes it has only started to penetrate. Over the years, that penetration is likely to get worse due to the constant solvent-action of the tar-like foam.

I prefer a clean view, so I replace any prism that shows deterioration in the viewfinder. Once the top is off, replacing the prism is little additional work, so might as well do it.

Mark Overton

Hi Mark,

Sorry, but you don't need to cannibalise an OM10.
You only need to clean the prism from the goo.
No further damage can be done as there's no more foam.
The prism will have de-silvered, but it will still work as new due to some physics law:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Total_internal_reflection

Have a nice day and, please, don't damage more OM10s.
The OM10 is the "bread and butter" for many photography students.

 

[Xmas]

It will not do more damage? How do you know that? When repairing the damage, I have seen how much area is damaged on top, and sometimes it has only started to penetrate. Over the years, that penetration is likely to get worse due to the constant solvent-action of the tar-like foam.

I prefer a clean view, so I replace any prism that shows deterioration in the viewfinder. Once the top is off, replacing the prism is little additional work, so might as well do it.

Mark Overton

The repair is to remove the prism, remove any foam residue, remove any damaged top coat and remove any damaged multi coat.
This relies on total internal reflection being total, try googling total internal reflection, the om1 prisms are better than the om10,...
You only need the multi coat where the prism is held down by the fastening.
The join between the removed coating and the intact original coating does not even show if even if you know where to look,
Some OM10 prisms won't fit some OM1s...
Without the foam you should be more careful metering if you wear specs.
This is published information on the OM repair site...

 

[Xmas]

Have a nice day and, please, don't damage more OM10s.
The OM10 is the "bread and butter" for many photography students.

Well our local arts uni requires a manual film camera so you would be ok with one with the manual adapter.

But most photo students get taught with DSLRs without depth of field scales...

I've been stopped in the street and asked to demonstrate an actual focus scale and depth of field scale no one believes power point slides.