HELLO!!!
I dont post much at all but i LOVE to read everyones posts.
I recently got into mixing my own formulas and i think in some weird way like it better than Store bought stuff. I developed some Arista.edu and was surprised when it didnt curl.....
So here are my questions..
I want to always mix fresh Developer and Fixer with the intent of always dumping them after the batch of film is done. One shot developer and i want to use fixer as a one shot too, meaning i want to only use water and Sodium Thiosulfate as a fixer. How should i dilute? how many Grams of Sodium Thiosulfate Pentahydrate to one liter of water?
as of "just for the hell of it" moment i used 50 grams of Sodium Thiosulfate to 500 ml of water to fix two rolls of film and a test strip cleared in about a 80 sec.
2nd question.
Anti-Halation layer. im trying to get rid of it to create those halo effects like kodak infrared film. I tried soaking the 35mm film in water for about 2 hrs and it doesnt seem to do much. 120mm seems to wash off something right away but it doesnt seem create those halos. I tried taping the Kodak tri-x 320 film to the reverse side of the paper so the film was on the White side and not the black backing, so when the film was exposed and it had no anti-halation layer the light would pass through it and reflect off the white side. that didnt work too well either.
So im guessing you really cant rid of that layer unless you develop it or fix it? Also Because high speed films are more sensitive to light would that mean they would have a thicker or darker Anti-halation layer?
my final straighty at the moment is Lucky Films. When i look at the film i can see its very transparent. So im going to tape some Foil on the back of my 35mm camera and then load some lucky film and hope i can create halos.
i just realized that i have no real reason for wanting to create those halos other than i want to see if i can do it.
-charlie
I dont post much at all but i LOVE to read everyones posts.
I recently got into mixing my own formulas and i think in some weird way like it better than Store bought stuff. I developed some Arista.edu and was surprised when it didnt curl.....
So here are my questions..
I want to always mix fresh Developer and Fixer with the intent of always dumping them after the batch of film is done. One shot developer and i want to use fixer as a one shot too, meaning i want to only use water and Sodium Thiosulfate as a fixer. How should i dilute? how many Grams of Sodium Thiosulfate Pentahydrate to one liter of water?
as of "just for the hell of it" moment i used 50 grams of Sodium Thiosulfate to 500 ml of water to fix two rolls of film and a test strip cleared in about a 80 sec.
2nd question.
Anti-Halation layer. im trying to get rid of it to create those halo effects like kodak infrared film. I tried soaking the 35mm film in water for about 2 hrs and it doesnt seem to do much. 120mm seems to wash off something right away but it doesnt seem create those halos. I tried taping the Kodak tri-x 320 film to the reverse side of the paper so the film was on the White side and not the black backing, so when the film was exposed and it had no anti-halation layer the light would pass through it and reflect off the white side. that didnt work too well either.
So im guessing you really cant rid of that layer unless you develop it or fix it? Also Because high speed films are more sensitive to light would that mean they would have a thicker or darker Anti-halation layer?
my final straighty at the moment is Lucky Films. When i look at the film i can see its very transparent. So im going to tape some Foil on the back of my 35mm camera and then load some lucky film and hope i can create halos.
i just realized that i have no real reason for wanting to create those halos other than i want to see if i can do it.
-charlie