Hypersensitivity to fixer / odourless chemistry?

[Stephen McAteer]

I had to give up darkroom printing because fixer fumes made me ill (Flu-like tiredness for several days).
I'd like to go back to it though.
Anyone have the same problem / any experience of odourless fixer?

Thanks.

 

[Kawaiithulhu]

You may want to check this TF-5 http://www.freestylephoto.biz/030200-Formulary-TF-5-Archival-Rapid-Fixer-1-Liter
I know that some people to sensitize to the stuff in standard fixer, especially skin contact, TF-5 seems to be a totally different chemistry and they even say you don't need a stop bath.
Drawback is that it doesn't store as long as TF-4 and fixes fewer rolls overall, as far as I know.

 

[Stephen McAteer]

Thanks for that. Off to take a look...

 

[miha]

This one doesn't stink: http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/tetenal-superfix-odourless-1l-1137-p.asp

 

[Stephen McAteer]

Miha - thanks. Looks good.

 

[MattKing]

How is your ventilation?

 

[Stephen McAteer]

Matt - ventilation was non-existent in my former 'Darkroom' (My apartment's kitchen). Possibly that's where I developed this chemical sensitivity.

 

[MattKing]

Matt - ventilation was non-existent in my former 'Darkroom' (My apartment's kitchen). Possibly that's where I developed this chemical sensitivity.

You may find that if you are able to set up a new space with enhanced ventilation, and take some additional safeguards, that you may be able to minimize the effects of your sensitivity.

Another option would be using print tubes and a rotary agitator.

 

[Stephen McAteer]

Hadn't thought about print tubes. I'll look into that, thanks. Getting a ventilated space in this house wouldn't be easy.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Matt - ventilation was non-existent in my former 'Darkroom' (My apartment's kitchen). Possibly that's where I developed this chemical sensitivity.

A particular darkroom design might be just what you need. Air exhaust is directly behind the processing trays. Any fumes are taken directly outside. If you have access to a window then a length of cloths dryer hose behind the trays going to an exhaust fan will create a negative pressure in the door. Use a chassis punch to makes holes in the hose. This results in all fumes being carried away from you.

Alkaline fixer recipes are not completely free from odor. You could try a plain hypo bath consisting of sodium thiosulfate and sodium sulfite.

 

[Stephen McAteer]

Gerald - thanks for the advice re: exhaust design. Sounds feasible. I need to look into alternative fixers. I found one based on citric acid that's manufactured here in the UK - I've mailed the maker to ask what else is in it.

 

[Patrick Robert James]

It might be the stop bath that is bothering you. I switched to a Citric Acid stop bath a few years ago and it is great. You can find Citric Acid at health food stores. Fresh fix also doesn't have the odor of older fix, so use it when you buy it.

Hope that helps you.

 

[Stephen McAteer]

Thanks Patrick. I think I would need to experiment. Citric acid has to be better than the other stuff though...

 

[Rudeofus]

There are three things which can smell in typical B&W print processing:

1. Acetic Acid based stop bathes smell
2. Acidic fixers can create smell from liberated Sulfur Dioxide
3. Neutral or caustic fixers can create some smell of Ammonia

Here is what you can do to address each of these odors:

1. As already suggested, switching to odorless stop bathes (usually based on Citric Acid) can address possible sensitivity to Acetic Acid vapors.
2. Sulfur Dioxide can be emitted from acidic fixers. Typical rapid fixers operate at pH 5.5, whereas these so called "odorless fixers" operate at pH 6.5. If you are sensitive to Sulfur Dioxide, one of the suggested "odorless fixers" will solve that problem.
3. If you are very sensitive to Ammonia, you can still smell it in these "odorless fixers". If Ammonia is the reason for your troubles, you could try neutral to alkaline Sodium Thiosulfate based fixers, which are slower than rapid fixers, but completely odorless for all practical purposes. A simple recipe for self mixing would be 200 g/l Sodium Thiosulfate Pentahydrate plus 10-20 g/l Sodium Sulfite.

PS: Thanks to Anon Ymous for the correction (Sulfate vs. Sulfite)!

 

[Anon Ymous]

Rudeofus, perhaps you wanted to say sulfite, not sulfate.

 

[ritternathan]

If you mix your own you can try this one:

Rapid Neutral Fixer (Ryuji)

ammonium thiosulfate 120g
(or 60% solution 200 ml)
sodium sulfite 15g
sodium metabisulfite 5g
water to make 1.0 liter

target pH 7.0 plus/minus 0.5

This fixer gives rapid fixing and rapid washing, same benefit as what's claimed for alkaline fixers, but with minimum of swelling.

I use this one in my darkroom and it has very little odor.

 

[mike c]

I use TF5 and it does still have a smell but not anything as bad as an acid harding type fixer. The Formulator advises using distilled water to mix the concentrate and also that an acid stop bath is not required. The stop bath makes the TF5 a little more stinkerer .

 

[Rick A]

This is what I switched to since I don't like the smell of ammonia in TF-4, has almost no detectable odor.
http://www.digitaltruth.com/store/cart/ECO-PRO-Neutral-Fixer-1-gallon.html