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Hubl's Glycin Paste

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semeuse

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semeuse submitted a new resource:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists) - Hubl's Glycin Paste


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jim appleyard

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Thanks. I've always wondered about this dev and the times one would use, althought I never wanted to risk 135g of glycin on testing. Good to know someone is using this dev.
 

David A. Goldfarb

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Yes, 135g of glycin was the first thing I noticed. I guess if I just wanted to try it, I'd make something like 100ml of the stock solution.
 

Chazzy

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Very tempting. One of these days you guys are going to get me to try stand development.
 

Trask

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Or just divide all the chemical amounts by 31 and mix those amounts in one liter of water. This works out to 5.3 grams of sodium sulfite, 4.4 grams of glycin and 20.2 grams of potassium carbonate. Looked at that way, it doesn't appear to be all that unusual in terms of composition. In terms of performance, the pictures speak for themselves.
 

David A. Goldfarb

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So how thick is the stock solution, really? Is it easy to measure in small quantities?
 

David A. Goldfarb

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semeuse

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I'm not really sure that Atget used it, but Anchell's note on this formula leads us to think so - now I'll just need that time machine to take me back to Paris 1910
The stock solution is similar to heavy cream, so actually quite easy to measure out in fairly small quantities.
Some of the positive attributes of stand development, besides being able to go out for a cup of coffee or a beer, are great edge definition and wonderful tonalities, even with fast "grainy" films like Efke 400 (pushed to 1600).
 

seawolf66

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Are you folks saying that a stand developer , requires no agitation, what are the set backs for use-ing this type of developer : New at this real older stuff of film work: saw a young woman doing prints on premounted canvas frames which she had coated and stored in the dark till dry and brought to the school to process into canvas prints , have not seen the finished product , but thought "how Neat"
 
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semeuse

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seawolf66 said:
Are you folks saying that a stand developer , requires no agitation, what are the set backs for use-ing this type of developer
Click to expand...

agitate for the first minute, then just let it cook - some setbacks are, besides time, you must have a very diluted developer that doesn't cause streaks on the film which is why glycin works so well here and the possibility of uneven development if you don't use a flat bottomed tray for sheet film
 

Chazzy

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If the emulsion side of sheet film is up, how could ridges on the bottom of the tray make any difference?
 
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semeuse

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I'm not really sure, but my guess is that the contact points would have a slight temperature difference that causes a minute developer speed difference - I only noticed the problem when working during hotter periods.
 
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semeuse

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one thing that I just noticed about my original formula post - I neglected to mention that before use, you must shake the stock solution well, especially if it has sat for any length of time
 

seawolf66

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I am told that Glycyn has a short shelf life , thats fine but after its mixed what is its shelf life , what type of metheod does one use to figure out the lenght of time
one would use for developing a film such as lets say FP4 ilford 4x5 film- Just thinking of toying with this stand development procedure! all thoughts well come ,
Not ready to invest into a book on this stuff yet just a hunting expedition thats all
 

juan

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Lauren, my experience with glycin is that it lasts a very long time in solution. I've used Ansco 130 more than a year after mixing. I've also been able to keep it longer than two years in powder form by freezing it.
juan
 
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semeuse

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as Juan pointed out, the glycin in solution has a very long shelf life - I have used both Hubl's and Ansco 130 with no problems after a year.
I would suggest a starting point for FP4 similar to what I've done with the Efke films - say 1:50 for 40 minutes
 

seawolf66

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semeuse and others I Thank you for your time and Information on this adventure! I have been told that your development
time and your dilution ratio can help you get better and even developement of your Negatives, Even at my old age I am still learning stuff: Lauren
 

pavelt2tk0

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Hi guys,

I'm making and using this developer. I also running on line store with photographic chemistry and many of our customers are using this.

I personally use this with agitation, and never tried for stand development. My dilutions are 1+60 and average development times with agitation about 20 mins.

The developer is very long lasting - stock solution is similar to Rodinal in terms of shelf life, and this is basically a good reason to make it - glycin itself will detariorate much much faster.

If somebody goes to make it, do it in a quantity minimum 300ml of stock. You are free to use anhy carbonate, and be sure to take half of the sulfite amount, because the amount in the recipe is given for hydrate.
The preparation is the following:

1. Heat up distilled water with sulfite up to 95-98C. Try to dissolve it completely.
2. Then put glycin into this hot solution, stirr well for a minute or so - glycin will go into this solution very well and completely. At this point you should have very heave cream like solution.
3. Heat up to 95-98C again.
4. Then add very small amount of potassium carbonate ad stirr it - be carefull carbon dioxide will form and you will have a lot of foam.... so stirr it fast and prevent it from going out of the glass. Then add another small mount of carbonate and repeat he procedure until carbonate will not cause foam (it will happen after ~10% of carbonate added).
Then put the rest of carbonate and stirr until it dissolve. The solution will become "more liquid".

Let it cool.
Shake very well and long before use.

You may use very old stock of glycin (take it 5-10% more if it dark in color) - this will not stain the film emulsion. Or even it does - it is ok.

The developer is usefull for paper also(at 1+10), but you need to have fresh glycin because of staining of brown one.

To my mind this is one of the best tonality developer, but it give it most in the midtones, but not in shadows and highlights.
 
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seawolf66

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# 4 learnt the hard way [ Foam all over the top Like a foam Soda ! ] LOL! Did not use distilled water will it still work ?
 
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semeuse

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It should still work fine - if you find lots of streaking, you may want to consider the distilled water
 
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