Juan Valdenebro
Member
Hello.
First, the situation:
I have a 35mm roll of HP5+ shot at 320… Yet to develop. It was common overcast, not too bright, not too dull… Some frames were taken after incident metering at 320, and the rest of them were equally carefully metered, with in camera meter: when the scene was a bit lighter than middle gray, I decided +1/2 or +1, and when most of the frame was white wall, I used +2, and if there were light sources of course metering was done in an appropriate area excluding those light sources, or with the spot meter. So, it’s really 320. (Question A)
I had never exposed HP5+ generously in my life… I have used it for pushing at 1600 for decades with several developers, even knowing pushing is nothing less than frying horribly underexposed negatives… HP5+’s grain is a bit disorganized (compared to Tri-X), and less tight… Also grains -space between grains- have more varying size: that’s necessary to make the film sensitive enough to reach ISO3200, something Tri-X doesn’t like to do… So HP5+ is kind of flat, because its made to reach a common contrast after pushing… And it can hold a wild developer shot…
I prefer its grain as sharp as posible… I used Rodinal for many years but I became worried about middle grays compression… So my goal is getting, with another developer, (and a non staining one) the best tonality that’s posible from ISO400 film with sharp grain: nearly no solvency… I studied for long with HP5+ and ID-11 1+1: that’s some solvency… I want less solvency than ID-11 / D-76 1+1… Xtol is very solvent, even dilute… I use 12x16 paper. Grain is very visible.
Second, the matter of this post:
All I care about is tone… I need to decide if I use my just mixed ID-11, or my just mixed Microphen: I’ll do what most forum members say here… Why? Because I have several reasons to think each of both developers is the best option… I’ve been thinking, and I can’t decide…
Why ID-11? Because it’s been for a lifetime optimized for the most precious tone with traditional grain film, and the most rigid academia indicates one should use just the standard developer all the time, and only take a different road in very few and really uncommon ocassions… And because in fact it does beautifully the small contrast expansion that’s needed to place that overcast on Galerie 3…
Why Microphen? It’s a developer that’s not just made for pushing… Phenidone simply develops film with a bit more speed… But is that really usable…? In some cases, no… In other cases, I’ve found it means a stop faster shutter speed, or a stop more depth of field, two valid reasons… It has less solvent than ID-11/D-76, and it produces a sharper grain that remains controlled after pushing… But what here, with ISO400 film exposed at 320…? Is it correct to asume Microphen produces -from a 320 exposure- the very same wonderful tone/grain ID-11 produces from a 200 exposure? Microphen can seem a good idea too because is has a special snap for bringing alive soft light: what it’s designed for…
Question A: Do I get totally linear shadow separation with HP5+ at 320? Would it be safer to go to 250 or 200 with ID-11? Even with microphen?
Question B: What developer why? For tone and sharp grain…
Thanks!
First, the situation:
I have a 35mm roll of HP5+ shot at 320… Yet to develop. It was common overcast, not too bright, not too dull… Some frames were taken after incident metering at 320, and the rest of them were equally carefully metered, with in camera meter: when the scene was a bit lighter than middle gray, I decided +1/2 or +1, and when most of the frame was white wall, I used +2, and if there were light sources of course metering was done in an appropriate area excluding those light sources, or with the spot meter. So, it’s really 320. (Question A)
I had never exposed HP5+ generously in my life… I have used it for pushing at 1600 for decades with several developers, even knowing pushing is nothing less than frying horribly underexposed negatives… HP5+’s grain is a bit disorganized (compared to Tri-X), and less tight… Also grains -space between grains- have more varying size: that’s necessary to make the film sensitive enough to reach ISO3200, something Tri-X doesn’t like to do… So HP5+ is kind of flat, because its made to reach a common contrast after pushing… And it can hold a wild developer shot…
I prefer its grain as sharp as posible… I used Rodinal for many years but I became worried about middle grays compression… So my goal is getting, with another developer, (and a non staining one) the best tonality that’s posible from ISO400 film with sharp grain: nearly no solvency… I studied for long with HP5+ and ID-11 1+1: that’s some solvency… I want less solvency than ID-11 / D-76 1+1… Xtol is very solvent, even dilute… I use 12x16 paper. Grain is very visible.
Second, the matter of this post:
All I care about is tone… I need to decide if I use my just mixed ID-11, or my just mixed Microphen: I’ll do what most forum members say here… Why? Because I have several reasons to think each of both developers is the best option… I’ve been thinking, and I can’t decide…
Why ID-11? Because it’s been for a lifetime optimized for the most precious tone with traditional grain film, and the most rigid academia indicates one should use just the standard developer all the time, and only take a different road in very few and really uncommon ocassions… And because in fact it does beautifully the small contrast expansion that’s needed to place that overcast on Galerie 3…
Why Microphen? It’s a developer that’s not just made for pushing… Phenidone simply develops film with a bit more speed… But is that really usable…? In some cases, no… In other cases, I’ve found it means a stop faster shutter speed, or a stop more depth of field, two valid reasons… It has less solvent than ID-11/D-76, and it produces a sharper grain that remains controlled after pushing… But what here, with ISO400 film exposed at 320…? Is it correct to asume Microphen produces -from a 320 exposure- the very same wonderful tone/grain ID-11 produces from a 200 exposure? Microphen can seem a good idea too because is has a special snap for bringing alive soft light: what it’s designed for…
Question A: Do I get totally linear shadow separation with HP5+ at 320? Would it be safer to go to 250 or 200 with ID-11? Even with microphen?
Question B: What developer why? For tone and sharp grain…
Thanks!