Hp5 pushed using D-76 or Hc110 to develop

[peter k.]

Ok on to new territory.. never pushed a film, want to take night shot of candle, and book on table.
Of course the candle will be fairly steady with no draft, but would like it as still as possible in the image.
Having done a search on the subject, many push Hp5 up to 3200, with no problem but are using a different developer. All we have on hand is D-76 or Hc110.. so what are your recommendations on which one to use, and how much push with that developer.
Of course we all understand ya have to give it a try to find out for yourself, as everyone does developing and agitation and little differently and you have to come up to a proven point for yourself.
But please give an idea of where to start for one or both of these developers.
Thanks for your input..

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

I would use D76 1+1. Shoot lots of frames, and then cut the film in maybe thirds, where you can develop one third at a time until you have results you like.
I would agitate 10s every two minutes, and extend the developing time to about 24-25 minutes at 68 degrees F.
The slow agitation helps slow down highlight development, and it helps to give longer developing time which helps the shadows a little bit.

 

[Ome Kees]

Add 50 to 100% for everly stop you push to your normal developing times as a startingpoint.

 

[lauffray]

I can't agree with the rule given by @Ome Kees, this sort of approximation hasn't worked well in my experience.
Read the Ilford documentation, they're excellent, all their times are spot on.

When pushing film you have to be a little more careful in your exposure I find, especially up to 3200. I find pushing magnifies small errors that would have been less important developed at box speed. I seem to remember D76 being a little more sensitive to agitation, Ilford generally recommends you agitate once a minute (not twice every 30s) and pushing will benefit from even less frequent agitation (as @Thomas Bertilsson mentioned)

 

[Ko.Fe.]

I don't think what pushing of HP5+ to ISO3200 would come out with "no problem". From my practical PoV at ISO1600 and in HC-110 the HP5+ comes "with no problem".

Print from HP5+ @1600 in hcB.



This is where I start and finish:
http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=Ilford+HP5+&Developer=HC-110&mdc=Search&TempUnits=C

 

[Rick A]

I wouldn't bother with pushing the film, I would rather shoot at box speed and adjust for reciprocity from long exposure.

 

[MattKing]

Including a light source (candle flame) in the frame makes for a difficult exposure.
Consider boosting the ambient light somewhat, metering and exposing for that ambient light and then printing the results quite dark, dodging and burning where necessary.
Bracketing and using various levels of light are advised .

 

[klownshed]

I've shot candle lit photos indoors at 1600 and got nice results with HP5.

I wouldn't use D-76 to push to 1600, but it's very nice at 400. I don't have much experience with HC110, having only used it at a darkroom facility a few years back and only used it for hp5+ at 400.

When I push Hp5+ to 1600 I usually use Microphen. DD-X is also good for pushing Hp5+.

I love HP5+ at 1600 in Microphen.

1l of Microphen is also fairly cheap.

As lauffrey mentioned, Ilford documentation is usually spot on for times.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Since Kodak developed HC-110 to produce results as close to D-76 as possible you could use either one. However to get greater film speed you need a high sulfite phehidone based developer like Microphen.

 

[lauffray]

One other thing you need to ask yourself is, do you want to print the negatives afterwards? If so, you might want to go with something specifically formulated for pushing, like Xtol or Microphen. The ones you chose will work, but printing will be more difficult.

As others suggested, making tests is a worthwhile effort

 

[peter k.]

Well first were going to try pushing with what we have.. and then we can experiment later with Microphen and Xtol.. but like the suggestion. This will get us started and will give it a try. Thanks all..

 

[haziz]

Add 50 to 100% for everly stop you push to your normal developing times as a startingpoint.

That would likely grossly overcook the highlights and the candle flame. Follow the Ilford recommended times.

 

[Ome Kees]

That would likely grossly overcook the highlights and the candle flame. Follow the Ilford recommended times.

If you overexpose you will overcook the highlights. If you want the flame right, then you have to measure the flame and expose accordingly.
You won't be far off with my recommendation.

 

[Maris]

I've never succeeded in combining a dark scene with shadow detail and a candle flame with highlight detail in one exposure. The brightness range is too extreme. A double exposure makes it easy: full exposure for the dark scene with the candle unlit. Then light the candle and make a short exposure for the flame.

 

[peter k.]

I've never succeeded in combining a dark scene with shadow detail and a candle flame with highlight detail in one exposure. The brightness range is too extreme. A double exposure makes it easy: full exposure for the dark scene with the candle unlit. Then light the candle and make a short exposure for the flame.

Ohhhh that makes SENSE!!!!! One would need an ambient light source as MattKing suggested, and then most likely, depending on how bright, one would not need to push the film, as much, if at all as Rick A stated.

Will give this as our first try tonight ...