Given the previous threads, where you are not content with contrast etc. I think that the time should be some 15-25% (45-60 sec) more than for FP4. Now, this is a clever guess, nothing more.
As times are short, do go for the times with 60 sec agitation rythm ("Kipprhythmus alle 60s").
An alternative would be to do some kind of stand or semi-stand development. You will gain very high "apparent" sharpness or acutance, a bit like almost apparent "unsharp mask" in Photoshop. Also note that stand dev. works best where the contrast in the scenes are high to begin with. (As this type of development self-masks the highlighs, so that they don't blow away. Actually in theory somewhat similar to unsharp masking.)
It's worth a try if you are experimenting at the moment. Don't experiment with important pictures before you know what you are doing.
Anyhow, if you want to try stand development, a short description:
Go for 20 deg. C, not more.
Mix the Neofin tube with e.g. one liter of water. (Or e.g. Rodinal 1:200)
Start with a pre-wet for say 5 minutes.
After pouring in the developer, agitate for the full first minute.
Let it stand still for an hour.
Stop/fix etc. as normal.
(There's a risk for streaks etc. with this method, but if it works it's very nice.)
Semi-stand development is a little bit safer (with streaks etc.):
Same as above, but agitate for 30 sec. at 15 minutes and 30 minutes. You are finished developing after 45 minutes.
While waiting, make and have some coffee, read a book, surf the internet...
Please note that I'm not an expert on Neofin. I had some very good results with it, but most of my developers from the -70'ies and forward was in yellow boxes (and Rodinal). Neofin was just so much harder to find in the shops. Since a couple of years I'm hooked on Pyrocat and I'm very pleased with what I get, both with continuous agitation and semi-stand development.
//Björn