Hp5+ @200 hc 110 help

[mamiyarzlover]

I have recently started shooting and developing film and made a big mistake. I thought I would give a roll of hp5 a try, and shot it at el200 but only have hc110 for a developer. I can't seem to find a developing time for this combination (should have looked before shooting it at 200 I know). I really don't have the extra cash to buy another developer, does anyone have a Dev time for this combination? Thanks in advanced for any advice

 

[MattKing]

How contrasty was the light when you took your shots?

I ask, because unless it was very contrasty, one stop more exposure than "box" speed will generally work really well with standard development.

 

[markbarendt]

I'm with Matt, develope normally. (Same advice for 100 too. IMO)

 

[Xmas]

Confirmed two stops over normal ISO is ok.

Kodak even say to increase by two stops in contrasty situations.

Before 1960 the ASA Standard was a stop slower...

 

[John Bragg]

HP5+ at Ei200 rocks ! Your "Big Mistake" could be a eureka moment ?? I use it all the time and develop in HC-110 Dilution H 1:63 for 12 mins @20c . You may well like it as much as I do, I hope so. Examples on the link below.


.https://www.flickr.com/photos/25714267@N06/sets/72157646005579978

 

[Simonh82]

HP5+ at Ei200 rocks ! Your "Big Mistake" could be a eureka moment ?? I use it all the time and develop in HC-110 Dilution H 1:63 for 12 mins @20c . You may well like it as much as I do, I hope so. Examples on the link below.


.https://www.flickr.com/photos/25714267@N06/sets/72157646005579978

John, I was looking through your photos. I've just got back from a trip to Cornwall and have taken some near identical shots to you. Including the Bodmin Moor signpost and the harbours at Padstow and Mevagissey. I shot mine on a mixture of HP5 and FP4.

Great minds and all that!

 

[BetterSense]

I use 1:50 at about 9 minutes.

 

[mamiyarzlover]

HP5+ at Ei200 rocks ! Your "Big Mistake" could be a eureka moment ?? I use it all the time and develop in HC-110 Dilution H 1:63 for 12 mins @20c . You may well like it as much as I do, I hope so. Examples on the link below.





.https://www.flickr.com/photos/25714267@N06/sets/72157646005579978

Your images look a lot like what I was visualizing for this shoot I used this roll for a studio fashion set up and am wanting low contrast and more sharpness that hp5 at 400 seems to produce

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Develop normally unless your scene was heavy contrast and bright light then I'd pull back 20% on the developing time.

 

[mamiyarzlover]

Develop normally unless your scene was heavy contrast and bright light then I'd pull back 20% on the developing time.

So if I wanted to pull back by 20% if the box speed is 11min in dilution H that would put me at 8:40 from what I can find I this correct

 

[mamiyarzlover]

And why am i seeing such varied times?

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

So if I wanted to pull back by 20% if the box speed is 11min in dilution H that would put me at 8:40 from what I can find I this correct

Yes. I generally shoot HP5+ at about 200-250 and develop at 20-30% less than Massive Development Chart times.

If you want to view my Flickr links for HP5+ and HC-110 you can see my typically used times and temps in my titles. Keep in mind I scan my film though and prefer a slightly flatter negative as it scans better.

 

[Simonh82]

And why am i seeing such varied times?

Probably two reasons. Firstly you can use HC-110 at various dilutions. I think people have mentioned dilutions of - 1:31, 1:39, 1:50 and 1:64. All of these would naturally come with different times.

In addition to this some people may have done their own testing and come up with their own development times based on their desired results. Silveror0 gave a time of 8.5 min for standard development in dilution B. This is 3.5 minutes longer than manufacturers recommendations but clearly works for them. I've used the standard time of 5 minutes for dilution B 1:31 and also 10 minutes at dilution H 1:64. Both worked well and gave good shadow detail. I've no doubt that the slight over exposure would have minimal difference unless you had very bright conditions.

 

[John Bragg]

Your images look a lot like what I was visualizing for this shoot I used this roll for a studio fashion set up and am wanting low contrast and more sharpness that hp5 at 400 seems to produce

I dont agitate the film much either. My 12 mins @ 20c with Dilution H routine is 15 seconds to start with, then 2 inversions at 4 mins and 2 more at 8 mins and that is it. If you are a frequent shaker, then less time would work, but it may be more contrasty. I also only load the top reel in a 2 reel tank, as I find that develops more evenly with my minimalist agitation.

 

[John Bragg]

John, I was looking through your photos. I've just got back from a trip to Cornwall and have taken some near identical shots to you. Including the Bodmin Moor signpost and the harbours at Padstow and Mevagissey. I shot mine on a mixture of HP5 and FP4.

Great minds and all that!

Hi Simon. Hope you enjoyed Cornwall and got some great shots to show for it. Great to meet you here.

 

[markbarendt]

So if I wanted to pull back by 20% if the box speed is 11min in dilution H that would put me at 8:40 from what I can find I this correct

Pretty close.

And why am i seeing such varied times?

Probably the personal preferences of and individual differences in everybody's systems. It's a "You say Toe-mae-toe I say Toe-maa-toe" thing, we all do things differently, we don't always define all the differences and reasons.

No one can tell you what will work best for you, that only comes with experience. Typically though "normal development" is the best target to start with, from there if your own personal printing attempts are not working well adjust as needed.

Given today's great VC papers though adjusting film development is much less important than it used to be, for me it has become irrelevant, everything gets developed normally.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Shooting HP5+ at an EI of 200 is well within the latitude of the film. For an average scene just develop the film normally as if it had been exposed at box speed. Tinkering with development times will result in altered contrast in the negatives something you don't want. It is fairly common to shoot 1 stop over and develop normally. As you have seen from the posts some people are adverse to this idea. But if you look at Ilford's instructions, and for that matter Kodak's too, you will find that this is the recommended procedure. Within the film latitude develop normally.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

I am not able to get to my notes at this time. However the following is from another Kodak article. Kodak's description for Tri-X. Underlining has been added.

Tri-X has been a standard b&w film - in different formats - for many decades. Kodak Professional TRI-X 400 Films are high-speed panchromatic films that are a good choice for photographing dimly lighted subjects or fast action, for photographing subjects that require good depth of field and fast shutter speeds, and for extending the distance range for flash pictures. This classic black-and-white film allows for maximum pushability when you need it, while its wide exposure latitude lets you leverage even the most challenging lighting situations. TRI-X 400 black-and-white film delivers fine grain that is good for producing high-quality images; wide exposure latitude for rich tonality maintained with overexposure and underexposure; high sharpness that is good for applications that require a moderate degree of enlargement; and a high resolving power for a good rendition of detail. For many, it has been THE standard against which others have been measured. Over 50 years Kodak only improved this product - increasing the image quality while retaining a relatively fast ASA of 400. TRI-X 400 Film (400TX) is available in 120 and 135 sizes and 35 and 70 mm long rolls. You can retouch the 120-size film on the emulsion side. TRI-X 400 Film is recommended for push-processing applications.

The quote alludes to the practice of over-exposing by a stop to obtain better tonality.

 

[markbarendt]

My attempts to find this recommendation have so far been unsuccessful. Can you provide links to Ilford's and Kodak's recommendations? I understand that EI 200 with normal dev simply moves the density range further up the HD curve. Looking at Ilford's recommendations for developing HP5+ exposed "inadvertently" at EI less than 250, they suggest developing in their Perceptol Stock for less than normal dev time (in other words, "pull" development - overexpose and under-develop). Granted they also admit that negative quality (however that's defined) will suffer a bit but negs will be usable. I think choice of developer will also influence "negative quality." In their link below, there are these recommendations:

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/20106281054152313.pdf

Page 3 - EI 250, develop time = 13 minutes
Page 5 - EI 200, develop time = 11 minutes
Page 5 - EI 100, develop time = 9 minutes

Also this quote:
Development times may need adjusting to
suit individual processing systems and working
practices. If an established system is producing
good results, adjust the recommended
development times until the desired contrast level is
obtained. My emphasis.

The instructions provided by Kodak and Ilford are great starting points. There are though various assumptions made by Kodak and Ilford to keep the instructions down to a few pages.

For example what does "producing good results" mean?

Good results are a variable:
* your artistic taste and mine surely aren't exactly the same.
* your preference in paper can change the optimal film development choices. 2? 3? VC? Scanner?
* when you use uncoated or single coated lenses or a Holga instead of fancy multi-coated lenses you may prefer a little extra film development.
* Condenser or Diffuser enlarger?

All of these things and more affect the choices one might make with regard to push/pull (+/-).

In the end you have to understand that there is no "one-right-answer".