HP CombiPlan T

tjaded · Nov 18, 2006

I just bought an HP CombiPlan T datlight developing tank for sheet film. I bought it on a whim. Anyone here used one before? I'm so used to doing the whole processing thing in the dark, I hope my developing room (read: bathroom) doesn't spontaneously combust...

ricksplace · Nov 18, 2006

I use one. It is a little slow to fill, so I fill the tank first, and set it aside within reach. I turn off the lights and load the film holder (practice with some old 4X5's first until you can do it with your eyes closed). I drop the loaded film holder into the tank filled with developer and put the rubber top on the tank, and turn the lights on and turn on the timer. I find it takes me only about 5 sec to drop the film into the tank, fit the lid and turn the lights on.

When you get close to the end of the developer time, you have two choices. You can use the tank drain. Don't forget to loosen the top filler neck so air can enter the tank to replace the liquid that is flowing out of the bottom of the tank. Tighten the drain, and fill with stop bath. You will need a small funnel to fill through the tank's filler neck. Don't forget to loosen the air valve on the filler stem so air can escape from the tank as the stop bath flows in. I find if everything works as it should, it takes about 20 sec to fill the tank through the filler neck, so you might want to compensate with your developer time a little. The timing from the stop to fix isn't critical.

Choice number two: (the one I prefer)
When the developer time is up, turn off the lights, open the rubber top of the tank, pour out the developer, pour in the stop bath (already measured and close at hand since you are doing this in total darkness), put the rubber lid back on the tank and turn the lights back on. Same deal for fixer.

The critical aspect of the combiPlan tank is to load the film holder correctly without scratching the film. It's fairly easy once you get the hang of it. Half a dozen times or so with the old sheets and the lights on and you should be ready to try it for real.

Good luck.

Travis Nunn · Nov 18, 2006

I've got one and it leaks like crazy. The only solution I've come up with is to squeeze the top very tightly when inverting it.

papagene · Nov 18, 2006

I have used one for over 15 years with no problems and good results. Always evenly developed negs.
I drain the chems from the bottom spout with the top one uncapped for air. Then turn out thelights to pour in the next chem. Repeat for fix.
And I have not had the problems with leaks a few people have had - probably lucky.
Good luck and happy developing.

gene

LVaszar · Nov 18, 2006

I agree it is slow -- it takes about 30s to fill and ~20 to drain. I factor these in into the development time. Otherwise it is convenient.

Claire Senft · Nov 19, 2006

I would not worry about spontaneous combustion in your bathroom unless the unnatural gas levels are too high. In that case I would liken it more to spontaneous explosion.

Baxter Bradford · Nov 19, 2006

Quite a few previous threads on using these and ways to combat slow filling/emptying times.

Suggest searching the archive.

RAP · Nov 19, 2006

I have been using them for years instead of trays with no problems at all. One tank for each step, from presoak to washing to photo flo. I have a perferated rubber stopper in the drain hole of one tank as my sheet film washer .

Each tank is prefilled and set up in sequence. DO NOT use the fill holes in the lids, they are just tooooo slow and your film will be ruined. Make sure the lids and stoppers are all screwed on or snapped tight and that the stopper and drains in the lids and tank are aligned. This will prevent leaking.

I load my film in the dark, walk over to the sink and start the process, turning on the lights after the lids are snaped on.

They are totally versitile for various development techniques like compensation, and standing development.

When agitating, turn the tank so that the narrow side turns and not the wide side, as if the axis is through the wide side. This will keep the sheets from jumping the channels in the tanks.

Richard Kelham · Nov 19, 2006

Yes it is sloooow to feed in the chemistry but this isn't a major problem so long as your dev times are over 10 minutes or so. Adjust dilution to suit.

I've not had any streaking or uneven development in the 6 months or so I've been using one, and it beats dish processing!

Richard

Jerzy · Nov 19, 2006

Choice number two: (the one I prefer)
When the developer time is up, turn off the lights, open the rubber top of the tank, pour out the developer, pour in the stop bath (already measured and close at hand since you are doing this in total darkness), put the rubber lid back on the tank and turn the lights back on. Same deal for fixer.

I am using the same way, however I have stop bath and fixer prepared in two jugs, so full stop bath procedure is done in the dark, and then after pouring fixer in I put rubber lid and turn on the lights.
Never any problems with HP tank. I am thinking about getting two more units so I can increase number of films developed and make it simpler, just moving films from developer to stop bath and then to fixer. I use HP tank mainly for semi stand, otherwise I use 3010 on a motor base.

C A Sugg · Nov 19, 2006

One other caveat is that the little red retaining clip is rather fragile. Take care when squeezing from the center.

hka · Nov 20, 2006

C A Sugg said:
One other caveat is that the little red retaining clip is rather fragile. Take care when squeezing from the center.

Don't squeeze it in the center. Use both hands to retain the clip at both sides and remove it carefully. This is also recommended in the manual...

Richard Kelham · Nov 20, 2006

Jerzy said:
Never any problems with HP tank. I am thinking about getting two more units so I can increase number of films developed and make it simpler, just moving films from developer to stop bath and then to fixer.

Next stop: deep tanks?

Jerzy · Nov 20, 2006

Not quite, you can have lights on most of the time. Also, I do not like to load films to wet holder, by having more holders I would not have to dry one too often. I do not have any experience with deep tanks.

Richard Kelham · Nov 20, 2006

Jerzy said:
Not quite, you can have lights on most of the time. Also, I do not like to load films to wet holder, by having more holders I would not have to dry one too often. I do not have any experience with deep tanks.

Deep tanks have lids too. You drop the rack in, agitate, replace the lid, turn on the light, then find you missed one of the loaded hangers and that it is sitting on the banch staring reproachfully at you...

Richard

Jerzy · Nov 20, 2006

Understand, thanks for warning. Will stay away from deep tanks.
In any case I find loading HP Tank holder fast and easy (may be not when done for the very first time). Slow fill and emptying can be alleviated by doing portion of the process in the dark. I have one for about 6 months and never noticed anything wrong.

tjaded · Nov 21, 2006

Well, I used the CombiPlan tank last night. Only put two pieces of film in there. The thing leaked quite a bit and one piece of film came out of its slot and didn't make it through the development well at all. I do like the fact that it takes a lot less chemistry than the usual tanks I use, but overall I was not super impressed with it. I'll keep trying before making a decision though.

Jerzy · Nov 21, 2006

The lid has to be pressed relatively firmly, I go with my fingers along entire perimeter of the lid. Did you try, just for practise to load "dummy" films (can be already developed) with lights on. I did this once prior to the first development and then never had any problem with HP holder.

Richard Kelham · Nov 22, 2006

tjaded said:
Well, I used the CombiPlan tank last night. Only put two pieces of film in there. The thing leaked quite a bit and one piece of film came out of its slot and didn't make it through the development well at all. I do like the fact that it takes a lot less chemistry than the usual tanks I use, but overall I was not super impressed with it. I'll keep trying before making a decision though.

Make sure the lid is pushed fully home. Another tip is to arrange for the drain and feed plugs to be on the same side say the RH side looking at the tank broadside on then invert by tipping to the LH side, thereby keeping the drain and feed plugs as much above the fluid (close the vent of course) as possible. Inverting the tank that way minimises leakage and also minimises the risk of films falling out of the slots.

Richard

Jon Shiu · Nov 22, 2006

Also, only push the film retainer clip down 1 or 2 clicks. Otherwise it can buckle the film.

Jon

timeUnit · Nov 22, 2006

tjaded said:
Well, I used the CombiPlan tank last night. Only put two pieces of film in there. The thing leaked quite a bit and one piece of film came out of its slot and didn't make it through the development well at all. I do like the fact that it takes a lot less chemistry than the usual tanks I use, but overall I was not super impressed with it. I'll keep trying before making a decision though.

I wasn't either at first.

I learned the hard way that it's not a great idea to agitate perpendicular to the film surface. Agitate parallel to the surface. This way there won't be so much force on the sheets and they won't dislodge.

As always, it seems, agitation is key.

I'm slowly getting to like the Combi-Plan. I use it for both C41 and BW. I do cross processing in the C41 though, so it doesn't matter that much if I mess up a little. :rolleyes:

PHOTOTONE · Nov 22, 2006

I have never had a sheet of film "jump" out of the grooves in a Combi-Plan, but I always use the red film retaining clip, and push it down just enough to engage the films firmly. I also use the technique of pre-filling the tank with developer, and then putting the film rack into the tank in the dark, then putting on the lid, turning on the light to time and agitate, turn off the light dump developer, pour in stop, put lid on, agitate, pour out, put fixer in, put on lid, turn on light and fix, then remove lid with light on to pour out fix., and I affix a hose to the bottom spigot to wash, where the water rises up inside the tank and spills over the top for the flow.

timeUnit · Nov 23, 2006

PHOTOTONE said:
I have never had a sheet of film "jump" out of the grooves in a Combi-Plan, but I always use the red film retaining clip, and push it down just enough to engage the films firmly. I also use the technique of pre-filling the tank with developer, and then putting the film rack into the tank in the dark, then putting on the lid, turning on the light to time and agitate, turn off the light dump developer, pour in stop, put lid on, agitate, pour out, put fixer in, put on lid, turn on light and fix, then remove lid with light on to pour out fix., and I affix a hose to the bottom spigot to wash, where the water rises up inside the tank and spills over the top for the flow.

It seems like some people have, and others don't. Maybe it's related to how you usually agitate, or maybe some tanks have more "play" and sheets will come loose more easily.

I've solved the issue with carefully controlled agitation.

(BTW, I've had lots of agitation issues in my photoghaphy. Paterson reels, Hewes reels, PVC tubes, Combi-Plan tanks. They all need different agitation, IMO. And the only way to find out is to try.

HP CombiPlan T

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