How were 30-foot 250-exposure film back's developed

Jeffrey A. Steinberg · Oct 11, 2006

I picked up an olympus 250-exposure back for my OM-1 (just for fun).
Came with a beautiful winder that takes 100 foot spools and rolls them onto 30' feet required by the cannisters.

Now the question is, how do you develop 30-feet of film? How was it done? In dip and dunk tanks?

I bought for its collectable value. I don't think I have the equipment in my humble darkroom to process it.

--Jeffrey

Robert Hall · Oct 12, 2006

There is a developing tank that allows you to roll it back and forth through a tank that holds the developer in it.

Can't remember the last time I saw one on ebay. It's been years.

gordrob · Oct 12, 2006

Nikor used to make a system for processing 18', 50' and 100' lengths of film. It consisted of stainless steel reels and tanks as well as a machine for winding the lenths of film onto the reels. There were three nesting tanks about 8" in diameter with one canister lid that meant you had to move the reel from tank to tank.

There is also a Russian system that appears on Ebay that is meant for cine film processing - 8mm to 35mm - the link is attached for that one. Have a look at the link and it will give you an idea of what you will need to process the longer lengths

http://member.melbpc.org.au/~cksm/projector6.htm

There is also another similar set up that shows up on Ebay quite often but I can't remember the brand name. Jobo also made a reel for their system.

Regards
Gord

egdinger · Oct 12, 2006

There is the Morse G3 rewind tank, that should process 35mm if I'm not mistaken. I'm not so sure those lomo tanks take 35mm.

gordrob · Oct 12, 2006

Here is a picture of the Morse G3 tank

http://member.melbpc.org.au/~cksm/projector5.htm

Alex Bishop-Thorpe · Oct 12, 2006

I was wondering about this not long ago as well, I figured there was something worked out for 35mm cine film developing...I dont have a bulk back, but I do want one for my own tinkering amusement. Good to see there are options and it's not a dead piece of gear.

paul ewins · Oct 12, 2006

Just a bit of trivia about the 250 shot system; the Olympus, Nikon and later Pentax versions are all basically the same thing. The loaders are the same and the cartridges are the same apart from branding. Only the actual backs are different. I think there was also one for the Topcon system. The Canon version appears to be different as do the Pentax Spotmatic versions.

I know that the Japanese companies shared patents amongst themselves, but this looks like something developed by a third party and rebranded for each company. I'd love to know the real story.

FWIW I've got both the Pentax MX and LX versions but have never used them. The LX one was a mistake while I was trying to get the MX one.

Jeffrey A. Steinberg · Oct 12, 2006

Thanks guys; I knew this would be the best place to ask.

Now on the hunt to find one of these beasts....(tanks)

--Jeffrey

reellis67 · Oct 12, 2006

As a purely historical note, there was also a back for the Stereo Realist that could use bulk film, although I don't remember how long the spools were.

- Randy

David A. Goldfarb · Oct 12, 2006

If you shoot color, there are labs that can handle the long rolls in roller process machines. They'll charge by the foot. A&I can do it, and probably places like Duggal and Modernage in New York.

A dip-and-dunk processor processes rollfilm hanging straight from a bar with a weight on the bottom usually, so for long rolls, the film would have to be spooled to work this way, and I don't know if such things are in common use.

There were a number of Lomo tanks. I've got one the one that seems to be most commonly available, and I think can handle 50 feet of 35mm. I bought it for Super-8, but I haven't tried it yet. You can adjust the spacing between the reels for 2x8mm, 1x16mm, and I think 1x35mm. Here's the manual--

http://www.geocities.com/cinetank/s8-16-50-manual.htm

Another way to process long rolls of film is to make a drum and wind the film emulsion side out on the outside of the drum. The drum is rolled in a tub that contains the chemicals.

Mick Fagan · Oct 12, 2006

We used to use Nikon F3's and their 250 back to do a bit of work.

We developed the film in an E6 roller transport unit but found that the older emulsions didn't like being squeezed by the exit squeegee rollers on each bath.

I think the best film at the time, 20 years ago was Tmax.

I have thought about using a Durst Printo with three baths, the first two being developer and the third fixer, then run the film into a big water bath as in a darkroom sink for washing, it's definitely doable.

Mick.

Mick Fagan · Oct 12, 2006

Just thought of something else, the big reels of film will strain your batteries, we eventually ran the MD4 drives for the F3's on 240 volts. Nikon have an accessory, basically made for that purpose AFAIK.

Mick.

Jeffrey A. Steinberg · Oct 12, 2006

The olympus runs on 18V pistol grip. I will try it once.

Jeffrey A. Steinberg · Oct 12, 2006

Mick Fagan said:
.

I have thought about using a Durst Printo with three baths, the first two being developer and the third fixer, then run the film into a big water bath as in a darkroom sink for washing, it's definitely doable.

Mick.

The first two developer and the third fixer? What about Stop Bath? I assume that is number 2 after developer.

--jeffrey

Mick Fagan · Oct 12, 2006

Jeffrey, the Durst Printo has four speeds available, 45 sec, 60 sec, 2 min, and 3 1/2 min per unit.

With two units running developer, that gives me 7 minutes at whatever temperature I need, up to about 24C or even 26C, to get good development.

I have three baths only, so the third bath would run a strong fixer, that will fix in three minutes.

I wouldn't run a stop bath, because in this instance the squeegee exit rollers, really do remove most of the excess developer from the film.

Yes the fixer bath would more than likely be depleted by developer contamination earlier than normal, but long rolls of film aren't normal either!

I have already worked out the shimming required to make the exit rollers on the first bath non squeegee, 1mm shimming is required, 2.5mm shimming stops all pressure and 3mm and the rollers have an air gap between them.

Pity you don't live locally, would be a hoot to give this a go!

Mick.

Jeffrey A. Steinberg · Oct 12, 2006

Thanks, I understand. Well, maybe I will get down under. Always wanted to see the toilet bowls flush counterclockwise.

--Jeffrey

Mick Fagan · Oct 12, 2006

As an avid hands on person, I can tell you, flushing a toilet doesn't cut it.

You have to drain a hand wash basin, or a bath, for the effect to be really seen.

It was one of the first things a couple of us did, when we hit the northern hemisphere.

Another little problem is the sun is in the wrong place of the sky, makes your orientation for North and South directions go askew.

Mick.

Tom Hoskinson · Oct 12, 2006

gordrob said:
Nikor used to make a system for processing 18', 50' and 100' lengths of film. It consisted of stainless steel reels and tanks as well as a machine for winding the lenths of film onto the reels. There were three nesting tanks about 8" in diameter with one canister lid that meant you had to move the reel from tank to tank.

There is also a Russian system that appears on Ebay that is meant for cine film processing - 8mm to 35mm - the link is attached for that one. Have a look at the link and it will give you an idea of what you will need to process the longer lengths

http://member.melbpc.org.au/~cksm/projector6.htm

There is also another similar set up that shows up on Ebay quite often but I can't remember the brand name. Jobo also made a reel for their system.

Regards
Gord

I have a Contax RTS-II with 250 frame back.

I also have a Nikor Stainless Steel Tank and Reel system that works great.

I get 250 frame rolls of Kodak 35mm color neg motion picture film developed an workprinted by FotoKem in Burbank.

How were 30-foot 250-exposure film back's developed

Moderator

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency