How to use toner? (Moersch mt2 specifically?)

[1kgcoffee]

I have made some prints on fomabrom, and now interested in toning them.

For my first toner, I have selected Moersch MT2 carbon toner + bleach. It seems to be a mix of selenium and polysulfide.

If my endgoal is nice deep shadows (deeper than dry down on this matte paper) and bright warm highlights, how should I tone? How far should the bleaching go, at what dilution? And at what dilution should they be toned and for how long? Obviously this is highly subjective but I'm having trouble finding information online.

Edit to add: can most polysulfide toner working solutions be stored for reuse or do they go bad?

-Thanks in advance,
1kgcoffee

 

[spijker]

The Moersch website provides a lot of information. You may want to start reading here. If you somehow end up with a German text, then click on the British flag on the right for the English version. Then there's also this gallery with examples:

 

[1kgcoffee]

Thanks spijjker,
I am also curious if this toner can be stored and reused after being diluted? I did read his website, including German. Unfortunately it's a little sparse on information with regards to mt2

 

[LarsAC]

Toning needs some experience as there are quite a few variables to play with.

In the bleaching stage, you can go for highlights only (diluted bleach, short time) or bleach back to a large extent. The toner will only work on the bleached areas.

For the toner, you can vary the dilution as well and it will give an impact on colors. Best is to try out different settings.

I have toned several prints of MGWT successfully by selenium toning first, then bleach (blacks will remain due to selenium step), then tone in MT2 1+40. It takes about one or two minutesFor the image to get stable in the toner. The time is uncritical in indirect toning (after bleach).

The solution does keep, but I prefer to collect a few prints and use MT2 toner as one shot. Also, bleach is not needed on MT2.

If you want strong blacks, you might want to look into selenium toner as well.

Lars

 

[1kgcoffee]

Thanks for the response, Lars.

I dove in headfirst today. Pretty pleased with the results, but it is definitely something to reserve a whole day for with many prints.

Tried indirect at 1:75 for 6 minutes, then my personal favourite 30+ minutes bleached to midtones. This really lightened the shadows and uplifted the prints. I can see how an initial selenium toning to beat the blacks down first would help in other scenarios but it turned out perfectly. The sulfide seems to overpower the selenium. The colour before dry down is a lovely orange. I will definitely be ordering this one again.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I have made some prints on fomabrom, and now interested in toning them.

For my first toner, I have selected Moersch MT2 carbon toner + bleach. It seems to be a mix of selenium and polysulfide.

If my endgoal is nice deep shadows (deeper than dry down on this matte paper) and bright warm highlights, how should I tone? How far should the bleaching go, at what dilution? And at what dilution should they be toned and for how long? Obviously this is highly subjective but I'm having trouble finding information online.

Edit to add: can most polysulfide toner working solutions be stored for reuse or do they go bad?

-Thanks in advance,
1kgcoffee

split-toning in selenium and sulphide will give you deep black shadows and warm highlights.

 

[LarsAC]

This is MT2 carbon toner 1+40 on Ilford MGWT after selenium and bleaching.


Drive (FB version) by Lars Von Wedel, on Flickr

From the following snapshot (all MT2 carbon toner), the first two are MGWT, the third is Adox MCC. All selenium toned, bleached to the shadows, then toned 1+40.

Lars