I just picked up a nice set of Kenko's (+1,+2,+4) in a local swap meet.Is there a certain technique I should be following to get the most out of these filters?
Just screw one (or more) on and focus as normal, they just let you move in closer than normal. No need for exposure compensation. You will need to move toward or away from your subject to find the focus range.
This is cool, I actually hadn't heard of close up filters before. It looks like a good alternative to getting a new telephoto lens. I've been dabbling in food photography lately, so I'm glad to have found out about these.
Clarification of terms:
Read 'chromatic abberation', i.e. not focusing various colors at the same plane, creating a 'color fringing' effect.
This is not 'color separation', which is a method of creating separate B&W negatives for red, green, and blue portions of the spectrum.
I've found that you can remove the front element of some cheap tele-zoom lenses (which is usually an achromatic doublet) and fit it in the casing of a cheap UV filter (after you remove the UV glass), creating a really cheap and rather well corrected doublet closeup lens. I've not done extensive testing as to how well this actually works, since I don't really do macrophotography, but I can't see any chromatic aberration on the one test shot I did with it.
Be very careful letting direct light hit the elements, most closeup lenses will flare badly. a lens shade is a good idea if it doesn't interfere with getting close enough.
These are basically + diopter corrective lenses similar to putting on a cheap pair of reading glasses. Each one adds two morer reflective surfaces to the line-up with an air space to add muck to the mix. Given the right circumstances, they will work successfully. I'll stick to extension tubes and bellows.
I just picked up a nice set of Kenko's (+1,+2,+4) in a local swap meet.Is there a certain technique I should be following to get the most out of these filters? Thank You