How To Remove Nikon F3 Top Plate?

[Fulledav]

I recently acquired a Nikon F3 that is in rough, but salvageable shape.


The situation is that I need to get under the ISO selector dial. It doesn't even lift up to turn anymore. The speed selector is tight and the timer dial barely moves. My guess is that grease and grit got in there over the years. Also, the shutter is running slow. So I'd like to get in there to clean and lube. I've accomplished something similar on F's and F2's, but this is my first F3.


There are far fewer resources online for the F3 than for the earlier Nikon models. So I'm throwing it out to the Photrio Hive Mind


I'm need to get the winding arm and the speed selector off of the top. The winding arm doesn’t have holes for a lens spammer.


According to the repair manual and an article from the Society of Photo Technologists, you hold the winding arm down and use a special Nikon tool - basically a black vacuum pad - and turn until the cap begins to come loose. I tried and it’s extremely tight.


Then you are supposed to turn the rubber collar at the base of the speed dial. As far as I can tell though the rubber ring is also the switch for the timer.


Anybody have any ideas? I’m in uncharted waters here and don’t want to break the first rule of camera repair - don’t force it.

 

[BrianShaw]

the first rule of camera repair - don’t force it.

I think that’s rule #2.

Rule #1 is “Don’t start a repair project if you’re not sure how to proceed.”

Sorry... I have no idea either. But I seem to recall a F3 repair manual some won the internet. Where, though, I can’t recall. Again, sorry... but it might be worth hunting it down.

 

[Fulledav]

The thing is that I’m good with what to do to the camera’s insides, but it’s not clear how to get there. The manual just says to remove.

The top plate is split into two, one half on either side or the viewfinder. The rewind dial comes off in the usual way - brace the shaft and unscrew. I’ve got the ISO dial out and I’m working on it.

The problem is knowing how to get the cocking lever and shutter speed dial off.
Based on the crud under the ISO dial, it’s probably a mess over there too. I’m thinking use capillary action to get some acetone under the cap on the winder.

I’m still stumped by how to get the shutter speed dial off. The manual says to unscrew the collar at the base, but that appears to be the timer dial too.

 

[Robin Guymer]

It looks like the rubber ring slips off the speed dial and there will be screws in the side under that. I just use my thumb pressed down very hard over the shutter button and turn anticlockwise to loosen the screw down washer. See photo

 

[shutterfinger]

But I seem to recall a F3 repair manual some won the internet. Where, though, I can’t recall

http://arcticwolfs.net/ for F3 Version 1, Version 2, T, and parts list.
https://learncamerarepair.com/productlist.php?category=2&secondary=8 for a Repair Article (may be of help), F3 service manual, parts list, viewfinder service, F3AF finder DX-1, and F3T service manuals.
The manuals are written assuming you are a trained technican.

 

[Fulledav]

I just use my thumb pressed down very hard over the shutter button and turn anticlockwise to loosen the screw down washer. See photo
View attachment 254730

Are your turning the button or the black ring?

I think part of my problem is that this camera is exceptionally dirty. I may use some acetone to release the loctite and soften the diet.

When I’m back to my desktop and can resize the progress photos you will see what I mean. I have already fixed the stuck ISO dial. There was a small amount of caked dirt inhibiting the lift spring mechanism. My guess is that I’ll see the same on the film advance side as well.

 

[BrianShaw]

That camera sound filthy... as you say, complicating matters!

 

[Mamiya_Repair]

The tool needed for this job is a 22mm flexiclamp wrench. If you are going to be repairing cameras, buying or making a set of these wrenches will make your life easier.

 

[Fulledav]

That’s really good to know. Thanks.
I actually looked up the Nikon tool and it was basically a custom sized vacuum cup. This is much better.