• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

How to properly load film on Ikonta 532/16

anta40

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Dec 4, 2015
Messages
95
Location
Jakarta, Ind
Format
Multi Format
Just borrowed an Ikonta 532/16 (yes, the one which gives you 11 instead of 12 frames).
I rarely use folding cameras, but still remember after instering the film you keep advancing it until number 1 is visible on the red window (on the back).

So I put a HP 5, and pretty sure didn't see any number. But saw an arrow... once. Kept advancing the film till the end, and didn't see another arrow.
If film manufacturers don't print the 1, 2, 3... numbers anymore, then how do I reliably know the film has been properly advanced till frame 1?
 

6x6 Super Ikonta B film loading tips.

model 532/16 (1937 -1956) and 530/16 (1935 -1937) To load the camera correctly your Super Ikonta B camera, the camera’s film exposure counter pointer must be in the large un-numbered gap between #11 and #1. This gap normally gives you enough time to finish winding up the exposed roll of film...
www.petrakla.com

Probably the window was a little too dark for the conditions to see the 1. Try using a flashlight or move to a room with lots of light.
 
Last edited:
Recently I got a Zeiss Ikon 514/2, and the first time I loaded it, I missed seeing the numbers, too. I put the camera in a changing bag, removed the film, and wound it back up in the paper -- then tried again, this time outside under brighter light.

Since then, I have not had any trouble seeing the numbers on the back of Kentmere Pan 200, Kodak Tr-X, or Ilford SFX 200, but I think the key to success is to take the camera into good light in order to see the numbers better.

Each manfufacturer has a different system of marks to alert you when the next number is getting near. As you are winding, when you see those warning marks it is best to slow down and start watching closely. After you have done it a couple of times, you will know what to expect, and it gets a lot easier.
 
I did outdoor this morning, when the light is bright. Pretty sure didn't see any markings (yes, I advanced the film slowly while examining the red window from short distance). Guess I'll try with different roll.
 
Once you wound off the "finished" roll, did you unroll the backing paper to see if any markings? I can tell you that on my rolls of Acros 100 (version 1) the indicators and frame number markings are VERY difficult to see through the red window. Thankfully, my Zeiss Super Ikonta III has an auto stop at frame 1.
 
The only way you can see the backing paper number easily is to use FOMA film. Ha! Ha! Just kidding, but it's true that Foma has numbers a person can actually see in a dark ruby window. I carry a penlight ink pen combinationmwith me to take notes and to see numbers easily. One camera I don't have as much a problem seeing numbers with is the Kodak Medalist II. The Medalist II seems to have the lightest red window of any camera I've seen. My Super Ikonta B is a very late one and while it's window is very clear I would still have to use a light to see numbers with Kodak or Ilford film in dim light.
 
Ilford documentation, I think their Product Guide, states that the print for the 120 backing paper numbering is intentionally light to avoid offset image issue. That was part of the solution to that problem by both Ilford and Kodak. They still respect and support us red-window camera users. It’s there on FP-4+ but in addition to brighter light I need to squint my left eye.
 
Well it helps to do this in bright diffused ambient light, it helps even more to use a bright directional source of light.
I find the small pocket LED flashlights to be perfect for this.
One like this:


Those dental magnifying glasses that have built in high intensity lights would be perfect for this, but if you think you look nerdy now using an old folder, just think how nerdy those sort of glasses will make you look!
The small lamps designed to clip on to the brim of a baseball cap or a headband lamp would also work.
 

I have a pair of reading +2.50 with lLED lights on each side, but oftentimes forget to bring them along. They work fine, but they don't work at all if they are home and you are out taking pictures. I almost always have my pocket notebook that has a holder for my 3 1/2" pen and penlight combo .
 
John Wiegerink said:
The Medalist II seems to have the lightest red window of any camera I've seen.
Click to expand...

The lightest one I own is my Lerouge 6x6 pinhole camera in that it just has an open hole through the back of the camera. No problem seeing the numbers on any backing paper!
 
Alan9940 said:
The lightest one I own is my Lerouge 6x6 pinhole camera in that it just has an open hole through the back of the camera. No problem seeing the numbers on any backing paper!
Click to expand...
Some of the older roll film cameras, like the Kodak Medalist, Monitor and most Super Ikonta, have sliding covers for there ruby windows. I think one could almost take the ruby (red) window out and just use the slider to check frame numbers. After you check it for light leaking of course.
 
John Wiegerink said:
After you check it for light leaking of course.
Click to expand...

I'll admit, I was a little nervous about light leaks through an open hole in the back but, after several years of use, and with various 120 film stocks I've never noticed any issues. There is a small wooden "door" that covers the hole during use which does provide a small feeling of security.
 

It probably has to do with the black inner side of the backing paper being a much better light barrier than the older backing papers of the past. Also, it probably matters how well your pressure plate holds the film. I have one folder that I really like the results from that only has a red window and no sliding cover. I don't use it much since the ruby window is so dark and scratch that you can't see the numbers unless you have the brightest flash light money can buy. I'm thinking of trying the windowless conversion with it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Menu
Log in
Register