how to offset prints on 8x10 for a book

Any suggestions here? I'm in a b/w photog class and the teacher suggests I make a book of the prints I've done, using the actual photog paper as pages. Since I'll need to bind it, I'll have to reduce the 35mm full size print so as to leave binding space on the left side of each page, plus it would be nice to center the resulting print top to bottom. No problem I think with a 4-blade easel, but my puny 2-blade unit has no way to print off-center as I need to do. I'd like to avoid a $150 expenditure for a 4-blade easel for this project. Suggestions?
Chaim

"Book" is applied loosely within a photo context, and is most often a synonym for "portfolio" ("album" in amateur terms). I would be surprised, very surprised actually, if your instructor actually intends for you to bind the edges of the original prints directly. Instead, think in terms of either inserting the prints into transparent pages or mounted on folio pages that are bound. The range of options is extensive, but I'd suggest getting clarification from your instructor before proceeding.

I know they had us do this in the last class I was in and we used portfolio pages to complete the project, some used 3 ring binder two sided clear pages, requiring the expence of binding is pretty rare in these type of situations, I agree with Ralph, I would get a clarification from the instrutor...

Dave Parker
Ground Glass Specialties

thanks, actually she was explicit about binding the actual photo paper, altho I'll talk to her again about the options you suggest--thanks Ralph

If she is serious about binding the photo paper directly, here's what I would suggest.

First, determine which size paper you want to use, based on the desired overall dimensions of the bound book. Then, make mat-like overlays that you can tape to the top of your existing easle that have appropriately sized image gates for both vertical and horizontal orientations. The gates would be positioned such that the image would be centered on the net space of the page (overall dimension less the binding margin). If you want to get fancy, you could use registration pins (used for graphic arts, separations, and such) to position the overlays accurately.

Thus, you'd set the degree of enlargement, compose, focus, etc. with the overlay in position, turn off the enlarger, insert paper, drop overlay, expose, and develop.

chaim

i make hand stitched photography books all the time. there are some pretty good books out there that explain how to do it .....
check out non-adhesive binding by keith smith
http://www.keithsmithbooks.com/

also check out books, boxes and portfolios
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0830634835/104-3795524-3843164?v=glance

as for your 2 blade vs 4 blade easle problem. one of my first books was made when i was in high school ... instead of an easle, sometimes i had to cut a window out of a piece of thin mat-board and it pretty much did the trick. depending on how you cut the board, you can get some really nice edge-work on your prints, and if you need to make a book with signatures and a spine ( like a regular hardcover book you might buy in a store ) you can mask off the part of the photopaper you plan to have the other images on &C ...

good luck!

-john

yeah, I tried cutting a window out of cardboard with an xacto knife and really couldn't get clean corners. maybe the cardboard was too thick and thin mat board would work better.

If you need to cut a perfect window to act as a window, why not get a frame shop to cut a black mat for you? (Have them use a black core mat or use a black marker to darken the edges...)

I think we all just think in terms of fiber paper... RC prints should bind easily enough for a class project (Although I prefer the look of a bound portfolio with real pages instead)

joe

cut the window out of matte board and then take a #2 pencil and rub the lead (or whatever they are made out of these days) along the inside edges and then wide the extra lead away with a finger. This will smooth the burrs off of the board and make for a sharper border. I would use 4 ply board for this.

if you have an idea already mapped out for your pages, and they will all be the same, go to a frameshop and have one mat cut out exactly the way you need it, they will use a matt-cutter and give you a clean 45º cut that is perfect every time. unless you have a matt-cutter, it might be kind of hard to get a clean 45º cut yourself ... bmac is right, it probably would be good to use 4ply ...

is there still a frameshop in wickford by the kayak center ( corner of rt 1a & ten rod road )? maybe they will do it for you ...

I would recommend 4 or 8 ply for this as well. 8 ply would probably feel sturdier and might help hold the paper flatter. Having a frame shop cut it would be a good idea. They should not charge you more than 4 bucks for it, or might just charge for the board and cut it for free (I used to work in a frame shop and did this all the time). Just beware that this time of year is very busy for frame shops, and they might not be in the best of moods during weekends.