How to make Plus-X do what I want it to do?

athanasius80

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I find myself liking Plus-X in 120 for the tonalities I get with it in bright light situations. I include a couple crappy scans, but I hope it conveys the idea. I use W2D2+ pyro. However, I can never seem to pull the same contrast range when I shoot it low light. Any suggestions or ideas? Thanks!
 

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MikeSeb

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Not sure exactly what you mean by "can't pull the same contrast range in low light".

Looking at the images you posted, they seem to be underexposed a bit (lacking shadow detail). The sky in the motorcycle shot is completely blown white, which could mean overdevelopment. It may be that the tonal range was just too great for any film/developer combo to handle, however. The car interior shot looks better in that regard.

I'd say try more exposure (you'll likely need to shoot at less than box film speed) and then the same or less development time, depending on lighting conditions. Generally, more development is required for more contrast, and vice versa.
 

dynachrome

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Many b&w films have been improved over time but Plus-X and FP4+ still have some of the same characteristics they had years ago. Plus-X is a very nice film in bright light. It has nice contrast, good tonality and decent grain. The grain will depend on what you develop it in. I don't like Plus-X in lower contrast light either. I find that FP4+, for a medium speed film, does much better in flatter light. Tri-X does even better but has more grain.
 
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athanasius80

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Hey. I should have given the caveat that the scans from prints scanned on my fax machine, it works until I can afford a real scanner. RE: exposure, I shoot it at ISO 100. Haven't tried more but I think I will. Keep the suggestions coming! Thanks.
 

fschifano

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I don't mean to sound glib about this, but maybe WD2D isn't the right thing for this film. I've always used D-76 and the results are great. It's not sexy, cheaps as chips, and gets the job done with no fuss and bother.
 

Chuck_P

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I develop Plus-X (at my EI of 64) in HC-110 1:63 from concentrate. I have some really nice prints with adequate shadow detail, even in low contrast light.

Chuck
 

Neal

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Dear athanasius80,

You don't say what efforts you've made to achieve your goals for low light photographs.

Neal Wydra
 
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athanasius80

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Sorry, I'm honestly still experimenting with everything--the joy of being an amateur--but most of my low light stuff is essential indoor photography (rooms, tabletop, random objects) with available light ranging from daylight filtered through open shutters to one 100w incandescent bulb illumination. So far I've just not gotten the kind of "feel" I get from the same film metered the same with the same developer in bright daylight. Reciprocity is taken into account of course. I hope I'm not being a bother or sounding idiotic. Thanks!
Chris
 

Neal

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Dear athanasius80,

One of the little problems with low light is that you have to reduce the development time to account for an increase in contrast (refer to the Plus-X technical bulletin, it should have recommendations).

Neal Wydra
 

mcfactor

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Ive found that plus-x looks best at an EI of 64, especially with Beutler's High Acctuance developer.
 
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