how to fog film

steveb533 · Sep 24, 2011

Hi,
I was reading about developing c41 in b.w developer first, stopping, then fogging it and developing in normal c41. How do you fog it? Is that a chemical process or do you just expose it to light?

Thanks,
Steve

Photo Engineer · Sep 24, 2011

Reread the information. What you have posted is incorrect. Sorry.

PE

steveb533 · Sep 24, 2011

Ok, thanks. Yes, that thread was on processing e6. I thought there was a similar method for c41; I accidentally developed a roll in b/w developer and have been looking for the best way to save it.

Bob-D659 · Sep 24, 2011

Exactly what have you done, dev only, stop, fix? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?

steveb533 · Sep 25, 2011

I developed and stopped with water . I havent fixed it yet.

Photo Engineer · Sep 25, 2011

Ok, here is how to proceed.

Fix and wash. You now have a B&W record of the color image.

Now, bleach in a rehal bleach with Ferricyanide and Bromide.

Wash well and treat with a sodium sulifte clearing bath. Wash again.

Now, run it through the C41 process in the light after fogging the film totally. You will have a reasonably good color image depending on how well the B&W process was conducted.

OTOH, just fix and scan what you now have and you will have B&W images.

PE

Bob-D659 · Sep 25, 2011

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

This thread might give you an idea or two on saving it. Not sure if bleaching it with a halogenating bleach can undo the development and allow the colour couplers to work.

Photo Engineer · Sep 25, 2011

Guys;

I assure you that rehal bleaching and then processing in C41 will give "normal" images, at least to the extent that the B&W process developed the layers. If the layers were under or over developed by the B&W process, then the color will not be true.

The couplers will not be harmed by the rehal process, but the overall image quality such as grain and detail will suffer.

PE

Athiril · Sep 25, 2011

Photo Engineer said:
Guys;

I assure you that rehal bleaching and then processing in C41 will give "normal" images, at least to the extent that the B&W process developed the layers. If the layers were under or over developed by the B&W process, then the color will not be true.

The couplers will not be harmed by the rehal process, but the overall image quality such as grain and detail will suffer.

PE

+1

You can get "perfectly fine" (scannable to good quality, dunno about printing and colour correction - or contrast for that matter) colour images.

Here is one example of the process (haven't pulled this one out in a while..)

Little Cousin by athiril, on Flickr

steveb533 · Sep 25, 2011

Thanks alot guys for all of the help! I just had one last question: should I use a b/w type fixer or c41? I saw this thread about fixer used for both (there was a url link here which no longer exists). I assume I would use b/w and just throw out afterward. Thanks again.

Photo Engineer · Sep 25, 2011

As I have noted before, the acidic hardening B&W fixers should never be used with color. Use non-hardening, neutral pH fixers for color. They should not be re-used for B&W.

PE

steveb533 · Sep 27, 2011

thanks. would tf-4 work for something like this? But at 25-35 degrees celsius I would assume. I believe it close to neutral.

Photo Engineer · Sep 27, 2011

TF-4 is alkaline and thus should not be used in color processing. TF-5 is nearly neutral and can be used.

PE

steveb533 · Sep 27, 2011

Great, thanks! This has been very helpful.

how to fog film

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