How to dissolve fixer/sulfur crystals in Jobo ATL 1000 tank

[mercurye]

Hello,

I purchased a Jobo ATL 1000 that has seen some use over it's life, and the tank #3 has hardened "crystals" of what I am assuming is sulfur that has dropped out of fixer. Some of these crystals show up on my negatives after cycling through this tank, and I am wondering if there is a chemical that I can use to clean them off? I have tried hot water and hot water mixed with citric acid, as well as scraping the bottom. This worked for the areas I could reach, but there is still some build-up in the back of the tank where I can't reach. I was thinking sodium sulfite (HCA), but I am unsure if it would help with sulfur. I would appreciate any suggestions.

- Austin

 

[tezzasmall]

I found this on the first link on via my duckduckgo.com search engine.

I am attaching the text, in case in the future the link dies. Read it all, as a few different options are given, from dangeraous to use, to slightly safer means:

https://sciencing.com/dissolve-sulphur-8770115.html

Sulfur (sometimes still spelled "sulphur") is notoriously difficult to dissolve due to its nonpolar nature; even water, the "universal solvent," is not capable of dissolving sulfur. While some nonpolar solvents like toluene can partially dissolve it, the most effective chemical for dissolving sulfur is carbon disulfide. While the actual dissolving process is simple, carbon disulfide is extremely hazardous due to its flammable and chemical toxicity, and extreme care must be exercised when using it.

Ensure that your laboratory space is completely free of flame and extreme heat sources. Turn off any hot plates or burners, and check for any exposed hot surfaces (such as steam pipes); if the surfaces cannot be unheated for a controlled and significant period of time, then you must choose another laboratory space to work in.

Put on a splash apron, gloves, and safety goggles. Place a borosilicate beaker under a fume hood and turn it on. Place the sulfur sample inside the beaker.

Sciencing Video Vault

Pour carbon disulfide slowly and carefully inside the beaker until the sample is fully immersed in it. Allow the sample to remain submerged until the dissolving reaction slows or stops; replaced the used carbon disulfide with fresh if further dissolving is desired.

Dispose of the carbon disulfide as a hazardous substance (EPA Hazardous Waste No. P022) according to local guidelines for transport and disposal. Wash all clothing and protective equipment thoroughly before reuse. Wash your hands, forearms, and face thoroughly after finishing.

Tip
Due to the extreme flammability of carbon disulfide, you may wish to use safer (though significantly less effective) solvents for sulfur, such as toluene and butane.

Warning
The autoignition temperature of carbon disulfide is 194 degree F; all surfaces in the laboratory must be below this temperature. Failing to provide adequate ventilation during use of carbon disulfide can lead to inhalation, fire and explosions.

Avoid skin contact with carbon disulfide, as it can cause second or third-degree burns. Use an emergency shower if skin contact occurs, followed by soap and water washing of the affected area. Immediately remove any clothes that have come in direct contact with carbon disulfide.

Cease working immediately if you experience dizziness, headache, nausea, euphoria or convulsions, as these are symptoms of acute inhalation of carbon disulfide.

Eating, drink, taking medication, or any other activity involving ingestion or the risk of ingestion should not be done near carbon disulfide to prevent poisoning.

END

Terry S

 

[lantau]

Unless you have a chemistry lab with fume hoods at your disposal forget about it. Hardly any lab will have the stuff around and none of these will want to order it. Best way to remove sulfur is by mechanical force (strong brush and perhaps a screw driver) and generous amounts of water to carry it away. I guess there is limited accessibility inside the ATL, so I'm sorry this may not help you.

Theoretically you can make Thiosulfate by reacting Sulfur with a solution of Sodium Sulfite at elevated temperature. It's supposedly a technical process. A suspension of Sodium Sulfite (cheap and easy to get the powder and then dissolve as much as you can and then add some) is stirred with Sulfur at 50-100°C. I'm not sure you can get a bit over 50°C in your ATL and if it would withstand that heat. Since the ATL will not do 50°C you could try to heat your suspension, fill it in, emtpy and reheat and repeat the cylce and see if that does anything. But as I say, I don't know if you ATL would like that heat. I've never seen the machine.

I'd try it on a small scale first, with some Sulfur recovered from the ATL, if you can. And work outside or in the garage, just in case.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

You may be able to mechanically remove the deposits you cannot reach easily with rough sand or even small steel shot along with some water rotating in the tube for a period of time. The repeated abrasion will break the deposits away, kind of like rock polishing.

Best,

Doremus