• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

HOW TO CLEAN PHOTAX DRYER

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
201,724
Messages
2,829,135
Members
100,915
Latest member
WyattRad
Recent bookmarks
0

tonyowen34

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Jan 22, 2017
Messages
50
Location
Anglesey, UK, 53.3N 4.4W
Format
Multi Format
I've been given a Photax dryer/glazer, but the surface has chemical (>??) residue on it [see image]. How or what will remove this crud with zero or minimal damage to the surface.

regards
Tony
 

Attachments

  • crud.jpg
    crud.jpg
    420.4 KB · Views: 176

tedr1

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Feb 3, 2016
Messages
940
Location
50 miles from NYC USA
Format
Multi Format
One common gentle abrasive is the kitchen cleaning pads (scotchbrite is one) it comes in two grades over here, green, which is tough and will cut aluminum and polish steel; and blue which is for plastics and is metal safe.

I have a couple of similar machines that I use for drying FB prints, I put the emulsion side to the fabric blanket so the condition of the plate is unimportant.
 

AgX

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Apr 5, 2007
Messages
29,972
Location
Germany
Format
Multi Format
Then there is not much reason to clean that aluminium surface. Otherwise you can use a standard kitchen-abrasive. If that does not work, use fine sanding paper(600-1000) on the complete surface and end with polishing.
The marks are not chemical residues as such but corrosion of the heating body, due to storage in damp condition with the canvas stretched over. The canvas thus should be thoroughly cleaned too.
 
Last edited:

bdial

Subscriber
Joined
Jan 2, 2005
Messages
7,514
Location
North East U.S.
Format
Multi Format
If the marks aren't deep (they don't look to be), I'd skip the course abrasives and just use a metal polish.
Aside from that, the aluminum surface isn't polished enough for ferrotyping and likely was never meant for putting a glaze on. As Neal indicated it is probably meant to be used with separate ferrotype plates.
Ferrotype plates, weather separate or built-in to a dryer have a mirror finish.
 

Ian Grant

Subscriber
Allowing Ads
Joined
Aug 2, 2004
Messages
23,408
Location
West Midland
Format
Multi Format
Don't understand reply. The 'canvas cover' has been removed for cleaning and the 'glazing sheet 'is still in its cardboard/paper envelope.
regards
Tony

You didn't state that you had the glazing plates so Neal assumed they were missing.

Once the Aluminium starts corroding like that there's little you can do, clean the worst off with wet and dry. Personally I wouldn't use a glazer to dry prints the cover tends to get contaminated.

Ian
 
  • AgX
  • Deleted

AgX

Member
Allowing Ads
Joined
Apr 5, 2007
Messages
29,972
Location
Germany
Format
Multi Format
"Personally I wouldn't use a glazer to dry prints the cover tends to get contaminated."
What cover? The woven sheet? It should be regularly washed. Best with detergent that contains Protease.

And if following the correct workflow I do see a way for contamination, as all base papers come out of the wash with the same amount of residues.

(Some people use such apparatus not for just drying, but glazing (hot ferrotyping).
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom