How to clean OM focusing screen?

[Rhodes]

I manage to grad a OM4 ti for a decent prince, with the 50mm f/1,8, but the focusing screen is the #12, with a cross-air. I also have the focusing screen with he microprisms and split image. How should I clean it? From what I saw, it is just dust, but I do not want to scratch the screen.

 

[baachitraka]

Please, do not clean it.

 

[Xmas]

Bulb air blower from safe distance if out of camera held in OEM tweasers...

Dust wont appear on the photos.

The OM4 split micro is a type2 and like hens teeth

Don't...

It is easy to damage them during removal or replace

http://olympus.dementix.org/Hardware/

 

[Rhodes]

OK, thanks!

 

[nsurit]

The two Olympus screens which are brighter are the 2-4 and 2-13 and those markings will be on the tab used for inserting the screen. Beattie also made/makes an Intenscreen which is brighter than the Olympus 1 series screens. There was a little brush supplied with Olympus screens for knocking dust specks off the screen. All those who have tried to wash them have ended up regretting the move. Beattie screens are still available at http://www.camerascreens.com/35mm-olympus-intenscreens.php and they are dear ($182.50)
Bill Barber

 

[Xmas]

The two Olympus screens which are brighter are the 2-4 and 2-13 and those markings will be on the tab used for inserting the screen. Beattie also made/makes an Intenscreen which is brighter than the Olympus 1 series screens. There was a little brush supplied with Olympus screens for knocking dust specks off the screen. All those who have tried to wash them have ended up regretting the move. Beattie screens are still available at http://www.camerascreens.com/35mm-olympus-intenscreens.php and they are dear ($182.50)
Bill Barber

An OM4 Ti OEM screen should have been the bright screen.
Replacement screens came in a jewel case with custom pliers and brush.

 

[Rhodes]

Yes, I saw images and so I ask what would be the method for cleaning the screens. Since they come with a little brush, they could be swipe with them, with out damage. Thing is, I just have a normal lens cleaning brush, ones that come in the normal kits and the hair may not be adequate for a screen, also one of the reasons I ask here for advice.

 

[GarageBoy]

I had a Nikon F2 G2 screen that was NIB- but unfortunately, the foam in the box had crumbled and stuck to the screen...
I brushed off and wet cleaned the shiny side, but merely knocked the dust off on the matte side with a lens brush

 

[Alan Gales]

I had a Nikon F2 G2 screen that was NIB- but unfortunately, the foam in the box had crumbled and stuck to the screen...
I brushed off and wet cleaned the shiny side, but merely knocked the dust off on the matte side with a lens brush

I had the same thing happen with my Contax 139. That sticky foam can be a real mess!

 

[Rudolf Karachun]

I had the same situation with the sticky foam on the Mamiya TLR frenel lens. The foam got in to the groves. But a drop of Windex after a few seconds of vaiting dissolve all that sticky mess in to a gray liquid. After that the screen needs just a brief flush under the water, and thats it.

 

[mopar_guy]

An OM4 Ti OEM screen should have been the bright screen.
Replacement screens came in a jewel case with custom pliers and brush.

I bought an OM-4T new in 1987 and it had a 1-13 screen from the factory.

 

[Xmas]

Mine was bought later than that but had been in showcase never seen box you got a nnnnxxx to hand?

 

[Rhodes]

The OM 4 ti of my work place as also a 1-13 screen. Ironically, that one as a 50mm f/3,5 macro lens!

 

[Newt_on_Swings]

I have a few om4ts and the 1-13 screen is the one on it. The 2-13 is very rare and I think were only on the om3t cameras as default. The ompc has a lumibrite screen as well but no tabs to handle and requires you to unscrew a holder to get access to it under foam.

 

[mopar_guy]

Do you mean Serial Number?

Mine was bought later than that but had been in showcase never seen box you got a nnnnxxx to hand?

The camera that I bought new in the fall of 1987 has serial number 1116293 and it came originally with a 1-13 screen.

The only other OM-4T cameras that I own are as follows: SN 1121913 -- Has a 1-13 screen.
SN 1163038 -- had a 1-13 screen when I bought it, now has a 1-4N screen.
SN 1164995 -- has a 1-13 screen.
SN 1217371 -- has a 1-13 screen. This one is an OM-4T Black. My 'newest' OM-4T.

I have read that the OM-3Ti was the only model that came originally equipped with the 2 series screen. I know that mine has a 2-13 screen.

 

[thuggins]

Another vote for brushing off the dust instead of cleaning. I tried cleaning one Oly screen long ago and it did not turn out well. They put a little brush in the case for a reason.

 

[PentaxBronica]

Well, can't comment on Olympus but I've tried this on both Bronica and Pentax screens. In the first instance it was an ETR screen that someone had drawn on with a pencil. I think they were trying to convert it to use with a 35mm back and didn't want to buy the special screen with the etched marker lines. Obviously there was nothing to lose from trying various cleaning methods!

I had a suggestion of "bleach" on another forum so put some surgical gloves on and picked up the bottle of thick bleach from under the kitchen sink. A drop on both sides was gently worked with a gloved fingertip and dissolved the pencil marks in a few seconds. A good rinse, a blow-dry with a Giotto blower bottle, and... It's absolutely fine! No sign of the pencil marks or damage by the bleach. I then tried the same trick on a grubby Pentax MX screen and again, no damage. Obviously you need to be able to remove the screen completely from the camera.

It won't repair rub marks or scratches, but if you're in the same nothing-to-lose position as I was it's worth a go.

 

[benjiboy]

I wouldn't use a brush in any focusing screen because they put more dust on them from the bristles not less, I use canned air spray which contains no dust particles that's much cleaner than my rocket blower that blows ambient air from the room that does contains dust. and to clean it further I use a little distilled water on a microfibre cloth.

 

[Rhodes]

I cleaned with a brush and the air pump. The screen as some residue on the split, but I did not wanted to clean it with lens cleaning fluid. I may try to get a new in the near future.

 

[elekm]

As always, people will disagree with this. Here's how I have clean the viewing screens.

First, there are two kinds. The early screens (usually fixed in the camera) were made of real glass. Later screens are plastic, and those can be scratched very easily.

For the OM (single-digit models), use the little tool to remove the screen. Use compressed air to blow away the debris.

If the screen is grimy, and some are for some reason, clean it by putting some dishwashing liquid on your fingertips. Under running water, hold the screen by the edges with one hand and thoroughly wet the screen on both sides. Use your fingertips with the dishwashing liquid to gently clean both surfaces of the screen. Do not do this is if your fingers are heavily calloused!

Once clean, still holding the screen by the edges, use compressed air to dry the screen on both sides. The water droplets should simply be blown off the edge of the screen.

Reinstall the screen. Before you reinstall the screen, clean the underside of the prism. Be careful not to damage the meter needle (if there is one).

Also remove any particles of old film, but to be truthful, you should re-foam the camera before you do any of this work. Cleaning the viewing screen should be among the last steps.

I've done this with maybe 40 or 50 SLRs and have never had a problem. It's all about handling these items carefully, especially the plastic screens - which can be easily scratched.

The reason this works is that the running water helps to wash away any debris while your fingers spread the dishwashing fluid across the screen and clean it. The running water will then wash away all traces of the dishwashing fluid, leaving you with a very clean screen. If you have a sprayer on your faucet, use that as the final rinse. Just be sure to have a firm grip on the sides of the screen. If you are cleaning a glass screen, don't grip it so firmly that you break the screen.

As others have said, dust on the viewing screen has no effect on the actual photo. Even so, I find those black specks to be annoying and distracting.

 

[Xmas]

<snip>

I've done this with maybe 40 or 50 SLRs and have never had a problem. It's all about handling these items carefully, especially the plastic screens - which can be easily scratched.

<snip>

As others have said, dust on the viewing screen has no effect on the actual photo. Even so, I find those black specks to be annoying and distracting.

The problem is not scratching the smooth surface of the screen top but instead marring the edges of the Fresnels lens. Which are in sharper focus and larger...

It is like engraving your post code or social security number on top plate only services to reduce the value of the screen and camera either

- leave the dust for next owner to remove or
- marr it so he pays you less and until then you need to look at your sins every time you frame a shot.

Id not risk more than a blower brush in situ, aerosols more risky

YMMV

Most of my screens are damaged...

 

[Rhodes]

When cleaning with the dish washer liquid, why not use a q-tip? Or use latex gloves and use the fingers?

I find those black specks to be annoying and distracting.

Yes, my opinion also.