How to CLA a Studio Shutter

My studio shutter (serial #2459 Patent Mar. 12, 1907) will work correctly when flipped to open, but will only close quickly at f/32 (it's on a 9" f/4 Verito). It will still close when flipped to close from f/22 up to f/8, but with each stop it closes more and more slowly and at f/5.6 and f/4 it will not close at all. It will open correctly at each stop.

Previously I have been using a hat on and off with this shutter, but if I could get the studio shutter working then things would be a little bit easier. If not then I'll just have to use the shutter to open the diaphragm and then cover it up with a hat when the time is up.

I have found that most of my Studio shutters function best in one position. For all of mine but one that position is with the cable release socket pointing straight down.

As far as CLA is concerned, as simple as the shutter looks, it is too easy to have it disassemble, and it is a bear for the amateur to put back together.

Firing it many times will often loosen them up to the point of useability.

I only use mine wide open and rely on neutral density filters to attenuate the light. I came to this solution because all that I have work better wide open than closed down.

Jim

I have CLAed a number of Studio Shutters, and find they are very easy to work on, and in fact are an ideal starting point for the amateur do-it-onselfer. As Jim notes, they can be difficult to put together once apart, so take good notes and photos (this is one good use of a digital camera). The problem is that parts to not exist, so if you have a broken leaf, which is very common, you are out of luck, unless you can find another shutter to scavenge or are able to glue it. I managed to repair three broken leafs (leaves?) with super-glue carefully sanding them down to flat.

Somewhere on APUG, David Goldfarb wrote a good description of how to do this, but I can't find it right now.

For what it's worth,
I have made new shutter leaves out of carbon black paper by tracing around a good leaf then cutting it out with an exacto knife. I have also made them out of brass sheet stock, and the aluminum of a Coke can. The brass is too heavey and does not match the weight of the other leaves. Many original Studio Shutters had the blades made of heavy paper black paper. I am using a Studio Shutter right now that I made the shutter blade out of the black backing material in Polaroid sheet film. The black plastic looking stuff that stays with envelope when you pull it apart. Don't use an exposed sheet as the developer and neg image is a bit difficult to get off. Lay the shutter blade on the black and with a soft sharp pencil trace it out. Then hold your breath when cutting the two mounting holes. I have found that the main problem with these shutters is the closing spring under the shutter leaves has weakened over time, and is not strong enough to snap the shutter back completely closed. Next time I have a shutter/iris out of one I'll see what can be done to replace the spring. Black construction paper coated with Acrylic Matte Medium will increase the toughness of the paper. It is amazing how little wear the original shutter leaves will show in the area where they pivot on the pins.

Just some things to consider.
Charlie.................................

I have now cleaned most of my old shutters, betax, alphax etc. I used lighter fluid and have in some cases taken all of the leaves out and cleaned them separately. I have completely disassembled shutters. Just keep notes and or make drawings as you go. If you can't for some reason get it back together you can put the part in a baggie and sent it to Carol F. in California. In all of my cases the speeds were about right on with my shutter tester. I just got through completely disassembling an Ansco 3 speed shutter from an old folder. Before it would stick and not close or open. After cleaning the speeds are right on. It's work but you usually only need a couple of standard screw drivers, lighter fluid and some patients.

I have accumulated several studio shutters and after having done some minor repairs on them, I found it best to send my studio shutter work to Carol Miller. She did recently fixed my Verito 9 inch which has a small studio shutter. I believe her services can be especially helpful if your studio shutter problem involves having the shutter properly open/close at all aperture settings. She does wonderful work and at a reasonable price! I highly recommend her services on ALL shutters.

BTW, how do you APUG'ers store your studio shutters when at rest. I having been keeping the shutter open, for it seems to me that there is less stress on the shutter in that position. Is this a correct assessment? Do you agree or disagree?

I guess I just have not paid attention to whether I store these shutters open or closed. That may be a good point to consider. The position which cuases the least tension on the spring would seem to be most appropriate.
Jim