How to access Nikon FE shutter magnet?

[saman13]

I have an old Nikon FE I got for a great price (basically free with the lens) and shot probably a half dozen rolls of film through it before I realized there was a problem with the camera. The camera works perfectly at all shutter speeds except 1/500 and 1/1000. At these two higher shutter speeds, the shutter never opens. The mirror operates and the shutter moves into the uncocked position but the blades never open.
I think the issue might be a dirty shutter magnet but I am not sure of the best way to access this in this camera. Through the front by taking off the face plate or is it possible to access it from the back?
If you have had this issue and the fix was something OTHER than a dirty shutter magnet, please let me know. Or, if you just think I am on the wrong track please let me know.
I do not want to send this off for repair because I enjoy working on cameras myself.

Thank you!

 

[Chan Tran]

I would try to increase the tension of the first curtain. I think the first curtain travel too slow compared to the speed of the second curtain. By the way for the speed of 1/1000 the magnet doesn't do anything.

 

[saman13]

I would try to increase the tension of the first curtain. I think the first curtain travel too slow compared to the speed of the second curtain. By the way for the speed of 1/1000 the magnet doesn't do anything.

That's really good information to know! How would I go about increasing the tension? But, how is that true about the magnet not doing anything at 1/1000 of a second? I believe you, just want to know. I thought that M90 and bulb were the only mechanical speeds. If the magnet didn't do anything at 1/1000, wouldn't you be able to fire the camera at this speed without a battery?

 

[John Koehrer]

With an electronic vertical shutter, the magnet is literally in the shutter. Getting to it?
Easy(sarcasm) covers come off, leatherette is peeled back for access to the screws holding the front plate & lens mount.
unsolder some of the wires to the flexible circuit, a couple of screws from the prism frame & the mirror box and there it is. Four more screws & you have it.

Seriously though,Take real good notes & pictures when you taking it apart, you're going to need them to get it back together. especially good notes for the wiring
you'll be working with about 22ga wire.

If I remember right you can get a service manual from the Nikon site as a freebie.

 

[Robin Guymer]

I have a black FE that had the same problem - it is maybe lack of use by the previous owner. Hook it up to a motor drive MD11 or MD12. With no lens or cap, turn the speed dial to Auto. Turn the motor drive to C (continuos), face the camera to a dark area and start firing. Slowly move the camera around till it it faces up to the sky (not the sun). The needle will max out over A which is 1/4000th. After that the camera should fire okay with a lens on at all speeds. If not you could try some WD-40 DRY PTFE spray. This is a teflon spray that can give cheap old cameras a new lease on life (don't use it on valuable cameras). My black FE works perfectly now and can still fire at 1/4000th where as when first purchased did not work over 1/250th. Good luck with it.

 

[saman13]

I have a black FE that had the same problem - it is maybe lack of use by the previous owner. Hook it up to a motor drive MD11 or MD12. With no lens or cap, turn the speed dial to Auto. Turn the motor drive to C (continuos), face the camera to a dark area and start firing. Slowly move the camera around till it it faces up to the sky (not the sun). The needle will max out over A which is 1/4000th. After that the camera should fire okay with a lens on at all speeds. If not you could try some WD-40 DRY PTFE spray. This is a teflon spray that can give cheap old cameras a new lease on life (don't use it on valuable cameras). My black FE works perfectly now and can still fire at 1/4000th where as when first purchased did not work over 1/250th. Good luck with it.

Hey Robin, seems like you're always helping me out with finicky Nikons. I don't currently have a motor drive, but I just checked and KEH has one at bgn for $6 so that might be worth the pick-up. If you're right and I don't have to take apart the camera it would have certainly earned it's worth.

 

[colin wells]

If you do a Google search there is some fantastic information on the Nikon fe and setting it up

 

[Robin Guymer]

Hey Robin, seems like you're always helping me out with finicky Nikons. I don't currently have a motor drive, but I just checked and KEH has one at bgn for $6 so that might be worth the pick-up. If you're right and I don't have to take apart the camera it would have certainly earned it's worth.

I hope I am helpful Sam. Let me know how it works out and what's the status on your F2? The FE are fantastic cameras. Try some colour night time photography as the FE is better at it than a lot of digital cameras. Pick a clear moonless night out in the bush. Aim at the stars with some trees in the foreground. Tripod + Timer + cover eye piece - click and be patient as exposure can take many minutes. This photo with one of my FE's was on a pitch dark night, the streaks are star trails through the tree and the distant hills are kilometres away.
https://flic.kr/p/KU8XCK

 

[Chan Tran]

That's really good information to know! How would I go about increasing the tension? But, how is that true about the magnet not doing anything at 1/1000 of a second? I believe you, just want to know. I thought that M90 and bulb were the only mechanical speeds. If the magnet didn't do anything at 1/1000, wouldn't you be able to fire the camera at this speed without a battery?

Well I stand corrected. The F3 at the highest shutter speed of 1/2000 the magnet for the second curtain doesn't work so at 1/2000 the F3 shutter speed is mechanical although it does need power to release the first curtain. I think on the FE all speeds are timed electronically (except M90). However I still think you have problem with the shutter curtain travel time. I look at the service manual but couldn't find where you can adjust the tension. On the F3 it's easy just need to open the base plate and turn a gear. The FE has vertical traveled shutter so I doubt that the location is the same. Exercising the shutter via the motor drive is a good idea because it just may need to loosen up to travel at the right speed. If you have problem with 1/500 speed may be set the camera at 1/125, open the back and fire a flash and see if you see if it's sync correctly. Sluggish curtains can cause partial exposure at top flash sync speed.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

Well I stand corrected. The F3 at the highest shutter speed of 1/2000 the magnet for the second curtain doesn't work so at 1/2000 the F3 shutter speed is mechanical although it does need power to release the first curtain. I think on the FE all speeds are timed electronically (except M90). However I still think you have problem with the shutter curtain travel time. I look at the service manual but couldn't find where you can adjust the tension. On the F3 it's easy just need to open the base plate and turn a gear. The FE has vertical traveled shutter so I doubt that the location is the same. Exercising the shutter via the motor drive is a good idea because it just may need to loosen up to travel at the right speed. If you have problem with 1/500 speed may be set the camera at 1/125, open the back and fire a flash and see if you see if it's sync correctly. Sluggish curtains can cause partial exposure at top flash sync speed.

If the curtain travel time has changed, the shutter has lubrication issues, increasing the spring tension will not cure this and you will have lost the original setting.
The FE has a vertical travel metal blind shutter, no curtains and no tension adjustment.

 

[saman13]

I hope I am helpful Sam. Let me know how it works out and what's the status on your F2? The FE are fantastic cameras. Try some colour night time photography as the FE is better at it than a lot of digital cameras. Pick a clear moonless night out in the bush. Aim at the stars with some trees in the foreground. Tripod + Timer + cover eye piece - click and be patient as exposure can take many minutes. This photo with one of my FE's was on a pitch dark night, the streaks are star trails through the tree and the distant hills are kilometres away.
https://flic.kr/p/KU8XCK

The F2 is working great! I have my first roll of slide film in it right now. Actually, it is mostly great; When I put the top plate back on I must have bumped something because now the frame counter isn't working. Oh well, when I finish this roll I will take it of and see what the problem is.
But, now that I have two working F2s I'm thinking about selling one of them and picking up a new lens, either Nikon (I've wanted a 105 F/2.5 for a while now) or or one for my Mamiya TLR I just bought. I don't think I need two F2s. The other day I had a realization that I have two of every Nikon I own. F2, FM, FE, EM. I'll post a picture of it on here sometime. I've acquired them all at great prices because I realized that most of the time a camera that is sold as "Not Working" has either: a) a dead battery, b) a simple mechanical jam under the baseplate, or c) just dirty. I'll probably start selling the duplicates because having many lenses is much more useful I think than many bodies.
And it's amazing what the auto metering systems on these electronic Nikons can do! That is mainly what I use my EM for these days because it has the same great metering system as the FE. It is so small you can stick it in a pack with the rest of your Nikon gear and not even notice. Then just set it up for a long exposure and use your other cameras for different things. Great shot!

 

[Robin Guymer]

The F2 is working great!............... The other day I had a realization that I have two of every Nikon I own. F2, FM, FE, EM. ................

Film camera GAS is infectious. Check out some Canon A1's. They often sell for a song but are great cameras and FD lenses are cheaper than Nikkors. I've thought of selling my duplicates but since I repaired most of them, just cannot do it. Anyway I found the cure to buying more - it's called an enlarger and a darkroom. Enjoy!

 

[saman13]

$6 MD-11 arrived today. Hooked it up to the FE and tried out your trick and it seems to have worked! Shutter is opening at all shutter speeds. Hopefully all it needed was some action. I'll check it again tomorrow and then a few days after that to make sure it doesn't go back to its old sticky ways. Thanks, Robin!

 

[Robin Guymer]

$6 MD-11 arrived today. Hooked it up to the FE and tried out your trick and it seems to have worked! Shutter is opening at all shutter speeds. Hopefully all it needed was some action. I'll check it again tomorrow and then a few days after that to make sure it doesn't go back to its old sticky ways. Thanks, Robin!

That is awesome Sam. Well done mate. Mine did take a few months to be completely clear of jambs at maxed out 1/4000th but anything below that was fine and now it never jambs. It cost me $12 and now it is my best collector FE. They are a great tough little camera once you shake the cobwebs out of them.

 

[fstop]

If the curtain travel time has changed, the shutter has lubrication issues, increasing the spring tension will not cure this and you will have lost the original setting.
The FE has a vertical travel metal blind shutter, no curtains and no tension adjustment.

Lubrication issues? like some jerk oiled them? If they stick they should be cleaned with naphtha very carefully. they should be dry no oil.