How many film developers?

Melvin J Bramley

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How many film developers do you have on your shelf and why?
I'm currently using ID11 and have a bottle of , long lasting, Rodinal on the shelf that I seldom use.
When available XTOL is on my return to use list but 5 ltrs will tie me to it for too long.
Others include Ilfosol and Michrophen.
Again I will finish up with some wasted !
 

MattKing

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One for film - replenished X-Tol.
It provides everything I want, with a replenishment workflow that is ideal for my needs. I have a couple of unopened bags, so I should be good for a while.
I may have some old HC-110 in a small bottle - I gave the unused 16 oz. bottle to a friend.
In a pinch I could also make use of one of the three print developers I have on hand - Dektol, Bromophen or LPD.
And I never worry about a moderate amount of waste - it usually is only a dollar or so worth.
 

VinceInMT

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X-Tol, D-76, some Rodinal, and the fixings for Caffenol. I also have a supply of raw chemicals should I feel the need for further adventure. Lately I've using X-Tol.
 

Steven Lee

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Melvin J Bramley said:
How many film developers do you have on your shelf and why?
Click to expand...

  1. Xtol for 95% of use cases. Unbeatable standard developer, and essentially peerless if one cares about the environment (my reason for replenishing).
  2. Ilfosol 3 or Rodinal for that sweet superfine grain, but only for ISO 100 films in 35mm, which is about 5% of my shooting volume.
  3. ADOX FX-39 in a brand-new unopened bottle. I simply wanted to compare it to Ilfosol 3 but haven't gotten around to it yet.
  4. Microphen if there's need to push or if I need to shoot Delta 3200, but I am slowly giving up on film under low light so I am not sure if I ever open the last box.
 

JPD

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Rodinal, chemicals to mix Agfa 44/Ansco 17 and now also Ilford Perceptol to use with FP4+ for the first time.
 

Anon Ymous

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I have an old bottle of Rodinal that I haven't used for many years, but also many raw chemicals to mix whatever I need. The scratch mixed developers I have right now are D76 and Pyrocat HD, but I also usually mix some Xtol and occasionally Perceptol, D19.
 

Bronson Dugnutt

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I keep a full compliment of reagents on hand for scratch mixing, typically 1+X dilutions of various Kodak developer formulae (D-##), Caffenol, or other 'boutique' mixtures used as one-day/one-shot. I'll mix an entire liter of D-19 if I feel an itch for b&w reversal coming on.

In terms of shelf stable concentrates I'm looking at:
PaRodinal (4+ year old batch still going strong)
Pyrocat-HD glycol (Pyro + Phenidone)
Pyrocat-MC glycol (Pyro + Metol + Ascorbate)
PC-TEA (TEA + Phenidone + Ascorbate)
HC-110 syrup (decanted into several 100mL amber glass bottles, for emergencies)
A murky half-gallon of Dektol

I've used a lot of proper Xtol and TMax dev in the past, so much so that I'm out of both, and wouldn't hesitate to recommend either one. Xtol is hard to beat in terms of technical performance across the board, while TMax delivers very distictive (read: not fine-grained) results that really shine in certain circumstances. For the time being I use the Dektol in lieu of TMax if I want some crunchier negatives.
 

Craig

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Mainly Xtol, but I also have Microphen mixed up and boxes of ID-11 that probably will be used when the Xtol batch is finished.
 

Nicholas Lindan

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Microdol for 35mm
D-76 for MF & LF
HC-110 for utility - checking a camera works...
All film developers are used diluted and 1-shot.

Chemicals on hand to make 100's more, but after wandering through all the formulas I have come home. There is no holy grail and I am satisfied with my old chipped cup.
 
Last edited:

Fatih Ayoglu

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XT3 for film above 400 and Rodinal for films under 400. Sometimes I want to have TriX pushed to 1600 with Rodinal as well, you cant beat that golf size grains
 

Keith Tapscott.

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Probably too many film developers to be honest.
I mainly use D76 for films, but I enjoy reading about various different developer formulas.
I have been on meetings with other darkroom enthusiasts and it's always enjoyable to know what films, papers and processes that they use when prints are passed around for viewing.
 

chuckroast

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Pyrocat-HD Glycol self mix
D-23 self mix
DK-50
D-76
HC--110
Dektol
PMK Pyro

Bulk charms to make a lot of other stuff
 

skahde

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Moersch Eco Film Developer (EFD) a High Accutance Developer in the thinking of Beutler's formula but several modifications. That is all I use these days.
As a backup in case this small company closes its doors, I consider Ilfosol 3 with Delta 100/400.
 

Sirius Glass

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Primarily XTOL in the replenished form. I rarely use my second choice Pyrocat-HD glycol. I stopped doing C-41 development since it is more practical for me to have Samy's Camera do all my color development and printing.
 

Saganich

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D23, but am known to have brief affairs with alternative chemistry.
 

ant!

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Rodinal and HC-110, depending on film speed. Since I have only a few black and white films per year, shelf life matters.
Should probably fill the HC-110 in smaller bottles soon.
 

Paul Howell

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Same as ANT, at one time I had D76, MCM 100, DK 50, Rodinal, but as I shoot 1 to rolls a year, maybe 10 4X5 and 4 or 5 MF rolls I have scaled back.
 

subsole

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Only ADOX XT-3.
The 5l package is enough developer (1+1 dilution) for six months.
So for me two packages of ADOX XT-3 every year.
 

John Wiegerink

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Much like Mr. Glass above.
Pyrocat-HDC in glycol (home made)
XT-3-R
I use a couple others(UFG, FX-39), usually for test cameras and lenses.
I have been playing with some different versions of Karl's PC-512, but that verdict is still out as of yet.
 

Radost

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mix my own D96 for my 5222 cinema B&W
Xtol for everything else.
 

loccdor

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Lately have branched out: 510-pyro, Adox Adotech IV, Adox FX-39 II, Arista E-6. I have not tried either of the Adox yet but plan to do so soon.

For a long time, I only kept HC-110, Rodinal, and C-41. I still keep all of those now.

Tried Xtol, D-76, and Ilfosol-3 back in the day but don't use them anymore.
 

Maris

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Only well seasoned Xtol replenished. All my films, even mixed types and batches, go through this developer for the same developing time. Negative density are matched in advance by well calibrated exposure. Differences in contrast are accommodated by printing on variable contrast paper. All very simple and convenient, I think.
 
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