I use straight hypo for prints - just sodium thiosulphate and water - often. Nothin' else in the mix. Supposed to die fairly quickly, I've found it keeps for a very long time.
At the beginning of a printing session, I test the fix. Under safelights, I bend a strip of paper into sort of an "A" and hang it in a tray or small graduate of hypo, and fix for 3 minutes. Then I turn the room lights on (which exposes the paper), and put the whole strip in a graduate of developer.
If the fix is good, the fixed portion of the paper will be pure white - if the dev. is good, the unfixed portion will be dead black. For long print sessions, I'll do the same test several times to be safe.
I do test every keeper print for residual silver and for residual hypo - I leave enough margin for the drop tests so it can be trimmed off (even on properly fixed and washed prints, the droplets of tester will turn yellow or brown eventually).