Instead of Sodium Metabisulfite and Hexametaphosphate one can simply add Citric Acid to the milky clearing bath. Not only does it form a nice buffer with Sulfite between pH 6 and 8, the Citric Acid also works as chelating agent for all these ions which tend to form white scum with Sulfite or Carbonate, and it dissolves easily in water.
Instructions for making such a mix are very simple:
- Prepare working solution of hypo clearing agent with Sodium Sulfite, Sodium Carbonate (or whatever your recipe says) and tap water.
- The mix will be milky depending on your water hardness. Now add Citric Acid (anhydrous, monohydrate, it doesn't matter) until the working solution clears. Don't add too much Citric Acid or your bath will smell from SO2. If it does, add Sulfite or Carbonate to raise pH back to where it doesn't smell.
- Done!
It might be important because the remedy could well be different. The emulsion responds to alkalis with swelling, which improves washing, while AFAIK paper base doesn't care all that much about pH. I would therefore assume that Carbonate based hypo clearing bathes work for film and RC paper while I don't expect them to be very beneficial for washing FB prints.Whether the silver complexes are adsorbed in the emulsion or trapped in the the paper fibers is really immaterial in a practical sense.
There are different challenges for fixing bath 1 and fixing bath 2. Fixing bath 1 should remove the bulk of the Silver Halide which means you need something that can bind a few g/l of Silver ion. Sulfite certainly won't do that, especially in the presence of matching amounts of Bromide or Iodide.If this is indeed what Rafal is looking for, not likely to work very well. Haist briefly discusses Sodium Sulfite under "other fixing agents". As we know from film developers, Sodium Sulfite is a silver halide solvent, but it is a weak one.
There are different challenges for fixing bath 1 and fixing bath 2. Fixing bath 1 should remove the bulk of the Silver Halide which means you need something that can bind a few g/l of Silver ion. Sulfite certainly won't do that, especially in the presence of matching amounts of Bromide or Iodide.
Fixing bath 2, on the other side, neither has much Silver to deal with nor much Bromide/Iodide to compete against, so the numbers look much more favorable for a weak Silver solvent that washes out easily.
I think what Rafal wants to investigate is whether sodium sulfite will do some of the actual fixing on its own, thus making the wash-aid bath a kind of "mini" second fix. I believe he wants to single-bath fix and count on the wash-aid to take up some of the slack when the single fixing bath becomes exhausted. I.e., I believe he wants to use the fixer past its "for optimum permanence" limit and rely on the wash aid to get the print to "optimum."
There are some references (Ilford data sheets, etc.) that mention that fixing bath capacity can be "increased" by using a wash aid.
I would tend to be skeptical of relying on sulfite as part of the actual fixing process. First, the effect, if it exists at all, must be rather weak.
Whether the silver complexes are adsorbed in the emulsion or trapped in the the paper fibers is really immaterial in a practical sense. What is important is the kinetics of the process. The silver complexes in film and RC papers are removed much more quickly with washing than those in FB papers. So what controls the rate of silver removal in FB papers is absorption on the paper base. In any set of kinetic reactions it is the slowest reaction which determines the overall speed.
Gerald, thank you for your patient explanations, which I think I follow now. Just to see if I understood you, may I ask you how can we be sure that the slowest reaction is, indeed, that of removal of thiosulfate from paper base, if the duration of the immersion of paper in the fixer can be cut significantly, such as when using Ilford approach of film-strength ammonium thio fixer for 1 minute, or an alkaline/neutral rapid fixer, 12% (film strength) that references say washes out much more easily than the sodium thio? Secondly, am I right to think that you assume that one must use another fixer bath to speed up the removal of thio and silver-thio compounds? If a hypothetical compound X could remove those, would it not be better to rely on that, as there would be no additional thiosulfate entering fibres while desorbing the complexes?
Doremus, I think you understand some of my goals, indeed, I would like to know if a good, potent sodium sulfite wash aid can function as fix 2but definitely not as fix 1, ... However, I do not wish to exceed fix 1 capacity beyondthis is important!2g/l, which is about 40 sheets of 8x10 per 1 l, which is the same as capacity of a normal fix 1, before you would rotate it out based on Kodak and Ilford recommendations. However, the best part is, based on the Ilford and Digital Truth references, which I quoted above, that capacity of fix 1 is exactly what they are recommending for archival/optimum process when a wash-aid is used. The two approaches seem to have identical capacities.
Can I just use sodium sulfite as a wash aid? I have over a pound of the stuff left over when I used it to clear Polaroid type 55 negs.
You say it doesn't, yet Ilford claims it does ... and I would assume that Ilford did some serious testing before they published their numbers. Did you?Adding a sodium sulfite/wash aid to this single-fixing bath is simply not going to increase the capacity by 4x. From what we've been discussing, it may (emphasis on the "may") increase the fixer capacity a small amount, maybe even 10%, but likely less.
Can I just use sodium sulfite as a wash aid? I have over a pound of the stuff left over when I used it to clear Polaroid type 55 negs.
You say it doesn't, yet Ilford claims it does ... and I would assume that Ilford did some serious testing before they published their numbers. Did you? Note that Ilford would love to sell us more fixer concentrate ...
......................... I'll stick with the tried and true processes explored and documented extensively by those that have a lot more knowledge and experience than I ever will in photochemistry.
Best,
Doremus
www.DoremusScudder.com
It is well established that hypo clearing bath helps in washing out Thiosulfate (and possibly its insoluble Silver complexes), but what Doremus understandably challenges is something different: that a wash step in hypo clearing agent after fixing allows a single bath fixer setup to process as many sheets as normally a two bath fixer setup.And a sodium sulphite rinse, with maybe a pinch of metabisulphite and citric acid is very cheap and known to work.
I guess we are at the point that only testing will help reject the null hypothesis.
I'll try to devise a test, and hopefully, run it, but it'll have to wait till I'm back from my upcoming US trips. Late April or even May... I want to run the tests on what some here called an "exhausted" fixer, or which I think is at the borderline, 2g/l, accumulated through a normal use.
No, I haven't done serious testing and, if you read my posts carefully, you'll see that I've left the possibility open.
However, the claim that Rafal refers to and that you reference above is found ONLY in the Ilford data sheet on processing black-and-white materials ( http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/200621111117720.pdf ). Such a claim is NOT found in either the data sheet for Ilford Rapid Fix or Ilford Hypam.
Simon R Galley said:Our technical service stand by the statements, they have been verified and checked over many years.
Simon ILFORD Photo / HARMAN technology Limited
IIRC there were published tests of the individual hypo clearing agents, and that Sodium Sulfite was deemed the best. What one will eventually use probably depends on availability and cost as much as on actual performance.
Does Rudman provide any scientific proof for his pronouncement?
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