DREW WILEY
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- Jul 14, 2011
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This is in VERY bad taste, but fully characteristic of the kinds of stories climbers share among themselves. We hired an old lady as a cashier here who was once the girlfriend of the first guy who climbed El Capitan and still went to visit cronies at Camp 4 from time to time. My nephew was living with me
at the time, attending UCB, and climbed on the weekends. He had climbed El Capitan at least a hundred times at that point, including rebolting the Dawn
Wall - (which recent press releases claim two guys "free-climbed" - well... they did use their hands, but fell hundreds of times in the process, and were
secured the whole time by that very bolt ladder - so kinda a stretch to call it free-climbing). Anyway, one day my nephew walked into the store with a piece of bone he found on a narrow ledge and asked what kind of animal could have made clear up onto the cliff like that. I recognized the suture pattern and told him it was no animal. Then he turned sickly pale. Worse still, the old cashier personally knew the person involved. After climbing El Cap one day, the guy planned to rappel down the Heart face using about twenty rope lengths, but forgot to tie off the very first rappel. So ever since there has been a sick joke around Camp 4 how this fellow set a "speed descent" record on El Capitan "which has been matched but never exceeded".
at the time, attending UCB, and climbed on the weekends. He had climbed El Capitan at least a hundred times at that point, including rebolting the Dawn
Wall - (which recent press releases claim two guys "free-climbed" - well... they did use their hands, but fell hundreds of times in the process, and were
secured the whole time by that very bolt ladder - so kinda a stretch to call it free-climbing). Anyway, one day my nephew walked into the store with a piece of bone he found on a narrow ledge and asked what kind of animal could have made clear up onto the cliff like that. I recognized the suture pattern and told him it was no animal. Then he turned sickly pale. Worse still, the old cashier personally knew the person involved. After climbing El Cap one day, the guy planned to rappel down the Heart face using about twenty rope lengths, but forgot to tie off the very first rappel. So ever since there has been a sick joke around Camp 4 how this fellow set a "speed descent" record on El Capitan "which has been matched but never exceeded".
