how do you deal with low contrast situations that need more contrast?

[monk]

Greetings!
was wondering what solutions do you prefer in low contrast situations?(and why?)
N+(or N++) development?higher paper grade?selenium toning?double bath development?or ANYthing else..
just tell us your preference..and tell us why.
if you dont mind,preferably with 120 film and 4x5..
monk

 

[Gerald C Koch]

Typically in low contrast situations you under-expose the film and extend development. Bun this could be a problem with multi-exposure roll films. Perhaps not a problem with 120 but certainly with 35mm unless you roll you load your own short rolls.

 

[monk]

At this point in the history of photographic materials/processes, it is usually easy to solve by simply increasing printing contrast. If you can plan for it in advance, you might also consider a more contrasty film and/or developer. In some cases filters can help if the scene has the right colors and color saturation. Of course you can also extend development time and/or intensify the negative with varying results depending on the materials. Lots of options.

yes,i know that there are lots of options,that is the reason im asking what users here prefer(use the most, or prefer among others,dont know how to put it..),and why.

 

[RobC]

how low contrast?

I would probably push develop 1 stop (2 stops if really very low contrast) with my standard devloper and then fine tune with printing contrast.

 

[monk]

how low contrast?

I would probably push develop 1 stop (2 stops if really very low contrast) with my standard devloper and then fine tune with printing contrast.

Thanks for joining in RobC!
how low?lets say:
shadows i normally put on zone IV and highlights fall on VI. 2 stops.

 

[RobC]

that isn't very low contrast. You will have at least 7 stops from 0 to VII so one stop dev push and fix the rest with printing contrast. It does of course depend on what you call normal contrast. You could push two stops but personally I prefer slight under development rather than over over development so that I can work upto final contrast in printing rather than work down to final contrast.

 

[monk]

i just wanted to know what people prefer,and why..
selenium for less grain,or if they know something i dont know(what i think-hope they do)

 

[ic-racer]

Print with a higher contrast grade paper. If low contrast is a chronic condition, then increase development by 25% for the next batch of negatives.

 

[480sparky]

Depending on the dynamic range, I would start with shooting and developing N+1 or N+2.

Once I get a gander on the negative, I would decide whether to print using a single exposure using a specific filter, or two exposures using different filters.

 

[monk]

indeed,thats not low very low,but i dont have a specific situation here to solve,was just wondering what people prefer to use..

 

[cliveh]

I can understand the desire for correction, but if you choose to photograph a low contrast image, should you not print it as such. Or do you wish to distort reality and join the Photoshop bandwagon?

 

[Ronald Moravec]

Intensifier. Selenium 1:3 Victors is absolute best if you can get ingredients.

 

[mdarnton]

I haven't printed for quite a while, but my standard process with almost everything used to be to develop flat, print dark and a bit flat, then lift out what I wanted to see using potassium ferricyanide bleach, locally with wads of paper towels and q-tips.

 

[monk]

I can understand the desire for correction, but if you choose to photograph a low contrast image, should you not print it as such. Or do you wish to distort reality and join the Photoshop bandwagon?

are you serious?
i cant think of any photograph that hasnt been manipulated.Mr Ansel like everyone else manipulated all his photographs."shaped them" to his minds eye..
and also:"to photograph reality is to photograph nothing"
everybody has his own representetion of what is real.and how it exists,what is its meaning-function in our life.
there is no common "reality".my reality has nothing to do with yours.
,or anyone elses,if that matters

 

[monk]

Intensifier. Selenium 1:3 Victors is absolute best if you can get ingredients.

im going to make my first experiments with selenium very soon
got 2 kinds of selenium,one ilford and one amaloco.going to make tests with both,and we see
Thanks for sharing "your way" with us!

 

[RobC]

im going to make my first experiments with selenium very soon
got 2 kinds of selenium,one ilford and one amaloco.going to make tests with both,and we see
Thanks for sharing "your way" with us!

Selenium will just blacken the blacks if you are toning a print. If you use it too strong or too long you will get a colour change towards plum or red depending on paper and print developer used which personally I really don't like. You won't get enough contrast change to make up for a low contrast subject unless possibly you haven't printed your shadows dark enough to start with and even then its doubtful, especailly without a massive colour change.

But you need to play with these things to find what you like and don't like.

 

[monk]

Selenium will just blacken the blacks if you are toning a print. If you use it too strong or too long you will get a colour change towards plum or red depending on paper and print developer used which personally I really don't like. You won't get enough contrast change to make up for a low contrast subject unless possibly you haven't printed your shadows dark enough to start with and even then its doubtful, especailly without a massive colour change.

But you need to play with these things to find what you like and don't like.

im not really into the color change either,but indeed(as i red),if you dont ovedo it,than there is no shift.
i dont have an opinion on it,since i never tried it,but its on the to do list..
i report back if i tried
Thanks RobC!
(i also prefer max n+ dev. and grade correction with paper.)
was just curius what others prefer here and why
Good Light Everyone!

 

[JPR]

Monk, there is no quick answer to this. And, the input here will probably be frustrating and vague, because there is a lot of personal preference.

I approach this at the exposure/negative level not at the printing level. I now start to have a feel for which films and developers in which contrast situations give me the results I want. Just trial and error, but all based on my personal preferences.

 

[MartinP]

It might be useful to confirm that Ronalds post #13 was talking about intensifying the negative, not toning the print. How well that works depends on the film and what you actually have on the neg. It adds to the silver, so if you have a thick but low contrast neg before intensifying it, then you will see much less effective change than if you have a slightly under exposed neg. There are also proportional-intensifiers which apparently give a more even effect but I haven't tried that, nor have I seen one on sale recently.

As with any adjustments to irreplaceable negatives, make a similar neg for testing purposes and then use that to fine-tune your actions before doing them on the 'real' neg.

 

[RobC]

well I think the real crux of it is firstly whether you are using roll film or not and secondly how much testing calibration you have done.

If you are using roll film you must consider that there are other images on the roll which may not be low contrast so there is a decision to be taken about whether to compromise all the other images on the roll. It may be that normal dev is required to suit most of the roll and you just use increased printing contrast for the low contrast neg.

If you are using sheet film, then you can use zone system N+1 or N+2 etc, but only if you have tested to find out what your development modifications should be.

 

[removed account4]

Greetings!
was wondering what solutions do you prefer in low contrast situations?(and why?)
N+(or N++) development?higher paper grade?selenium toning?double bath development?or ANYthing else..
just tell us your preference..and tell us why.
if you dont mind,preferably with 120 film and 4x5..
monk

hi monk
printing filters might be your friend ... but

i have process film of low contrast subjects, sometimes
i developed my film in dektol 1:8 for about 5 minutes,
and then poured out the dektol and poured in sumatranolD
( caffenol C made with a shake of dektol and sumatra beans ).
the dektol i agitated 1 full min, then 10sec every min, the coffee
continuously for 4 - 4,5 mins . came out fine.

as for why?
i don't use any other film developers for the most part, its only dektol and coffee
so i have figured out ways to use them to do what i want. i also have the fun habit
of over exposing a few stops ( 4 or 5 ) and shuffling sheets of film in straight caffneol C ( no dektol )
for about 18 mins, getting film so dense you can't see through them, but they contact print on
regular old paper like a dream with the right kind of light.

good luck !

 

[480sparky]

well I think the real crux of it is firstly whether you are using roll film or not and secondly how much testing calibration you have done.

If you are using roll film you must consider that there are other images on the roll which may not be low contrast so there is a decision to be taken about whether to compromise all the other images on the roll. It may be that normal dev is required to suit most of the roll and you just use increased printing contrast for the low contrast neg.

If you are using sheet film, then you can use zone system N+1 or N+2 etc, but only if you have tested to find out what your development modifications should be.

This is assuming one cannot change the roll of film mid-stream. Some roll-film cameras allow this. This permits N- and N+ exposure by loading different film backs and 'collecting' all the N+ shots on one back, all the N0 on another, and the N- frames on a third. This is precisely what I do with my RB67.

And if you think about it, N+ and N- processing IS possible with even a single 35mm SLR.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Greetings!
was wondering what solutions do you prefer in low contrast situations?(and why?)
N+(or N++) development?higher paper grade?selenium toning?double bath development?or ANYthing else..
just tell us your preference..and tell us why.
if you dont mind,preferably with 120 film and 4x5..
monk

I've been able to develop all name-brand films to about N+3; if that's not enough, a higher grade of paper will do;Also, One should consider a different lighting sheme before reaching for processing solutions;side lighting can fix low contrast and make for a much more attractive image.

 

[monk]

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
tried caffenol as well,in my more experimental period,but the results were not so pleasing.
i think caffenol is not for me..but im supperglad it works for you!keep it up!
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
+1
this is the reason i have a mamiya 645 pro,and a mamiya rb(next to the 4x5 cameras)
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
N+3..never did that,i might be a sissy,but i would not do N+3 with 120 film.
but again,im a sissy..maybe in the future i will give that a try
what format u used,and what was the size of your final print,if i may ask?
Thanks Everyone for sharing your opinions!

 

[removed account4]

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
tried caffenol as well,in my more experimental period,but the results were not so pleasing.
i think caffenol is not for me..but im supperglad it works for you!keep it up!
[

i plan too, thanks
as mentioned i am able to get it to do what i want ( it looks and works like a conventional developer
and it works for me at about 1¢ / roll, sheet, paper/film ) ...
good luck finding something that will work the way you want !

john