How do I use Adofix P II powder fixer?

Maybe this is obvious but I actually could not find the answer searching for a while. Never used powdered chemistry before...

I bought the Adofix P II powder to make 1000 mL of concentrate using distilled water. Apparently it's good for 10 films, no diluting. But the problem is that I need to use about 600 mL to develop 2x135 in a Paterson tank, or 500 mL when I want to develop 1x120, or 300 mL for 1x135. The tank won't hold 1000 mL.

So my question is:

• Do I pour out 600 mL from the 1000 mL concentrate, and pour the used fixer back into the 1000 mL when done, discard after 10 films?
• Or do I split it into a 600 mL batch and a 400 mL batch, and never mix them back together, using the 600 mL for up to 6 films and the 400 mL batch up to 4 films?

And does a 220 roll count as 2 of the 10 films?

I also bought three of the Adox powder developers (XT-3, 49, and D76?)...but haven't read their instructions yet so I'll hold off on asking about those. But generally seems to be that you can re-use unless diluted in which case it becomes one-shot.

Generally with fixers, it's done the first of the two ways you describe. And yes, a 220 roll should count as 2.

Thanks, I wasn't sure if it was an error to mix fresh and partially used fixer back together.

So this means I don't really need to measure at all. I can just pour fixer into the development tank until the water level is above the funnel-shaped piece, which guarantees that the whole volume underneath it is submerged in fixer.

If I'm not mistaken, this is actually the classic ORWO/Agfa A-300 fixator. Adox used to sell it as Adox A-300 before they rebanded it. Contains Sodium Thiosulfate and Potassium Metabisulfite. This is NOT a quick fixator - longer fix times are needed. Its capacity can be increased if the time is increased after the first few films, but this means increasing the washing time as well. Generally requires a longer wash than an ammonium thiosulfate-based fixator.

lamerko said:

If I'm not mistaken, this is actually the classic ORWO/Agfa A-300 fixator. Adox used to sell it as Adox A-300 before they rebanded it. Contains Sodium Thiosulfate and Potassium Metabisulfite. This is NOT a quick fixator - longer fix times are needed. Its capacity can be increased if the time is increased after the first few films, but this means increasing the washing time as well. Generally requires a longer wash than an ammonium thiosulfate-based fixator.

Click to expand...

ADOFIX P II Powder Fixer is a ammonium thiosulfate based express fix:

The bag makes 1 liter of working solution and can process 10-20 rolls of film; 35mm 36exp equivalent surface area. Mix it up in 1 liter container, fix film straight from container, pour back into container, repeat. 10 films isn't a hard stop and after some experience you get to know how far you can stretch the chemistry.

Jens Hallfeldt said:

ADOFIX P II Powder Fixer is a ammonium thiosulfate based express fix:

The best things in life are analog | ADOFIX P II Powder Fixer

www.adox.de

Click to expand...

Glad to see they are improving their products

Do a film-clearing test to find the minimum time you need to fix your film. There are two strategies for timing fixation.

1. Do the clearing test with fresh fixer and note the time it takes the film to clear completely. Fix for at least twice the clearing time. Since the fixer slows down with age, you need to do this before every batch to find the new fixing time. When the clearing time approaches twice the clearing time in fresh fixer, the fixer should be discarded and new fixer mixed.

2. If you don't feel like testing for a fixing time every time you process a batch, simply find the clearing time in fresh fixer and multiply it by four. Use this fixing time for all the film you fix. (I like to add another 10% just to be on the safe side.) Then, just do a clearing test shortly before the fixer reaches its capacity (10 rolls per liter in this case). Discard the fix when the clearing time approaches twice that in fresh fixer. Yes, this fixes the first few rolls for longer than they need, but that much extra fixing won't hurt and you'll save time not doing the clearing test every time.

A note on the clearing test. The best way is to place a small drop of fixer on a small strip of the film you are testing (film leader works great for 35mm; for 120/220 you need to snip a bit when you're loading the reel or use a scrap roll of the same film for test strips). Let the drop sit for 30 seconds or so and then immerse the entire strip in the fixer and start timing. Agitate and watch the film clear. When you can no longer see any difference in clarity between where the drop was and the area around it, the film is clear. Note that time; it's the clearing time.

Best,

Doremus

I switched to this fixer recently, and tried using it at 1+4 (mixed powder to make 5 l, then mixed 250ml of this with 1l water)

Result is this is not a good idea ... I asked Fotimpex who told me the 1+4 dilution applies to the liquid concentrate, not the powder version.

Diluted solution gave me clearing times in the 10/15 minutes range...

The website linked to above clearly states that Adofix P II powdered fixer should be mixed directly to working strength. It should not be diluted further. Capacity is stated at 10 rolls of film per liter (220 = two rolls).

Doremus

Mix for 1000, then use the 600 or as much as you need. After using, pour back into the original bottle.
You dont have to be using the whole bottle at once to spend it, because what matters is the concentration is constant. Even when you only use 300ml, the same proportion of the total is used up. The working solution after each film fixing is the same since it all gets mixed up.
Essentially, just note how many films you have used it with and after 10 uses then discard it.

10 rolls seems awfully short. I'm unsure how similar this is to Ilford Rapid Fix, but I've gotten 40+ rolls from a liter of that before fixing times doubled. Just keep going until fix times become obnoxious

As suggested above, do a clearing test when fresh, then again after 10 rolls (same film brand / type), and see how much longer it takes. I'll warrant the difference from 10 rolls of use is minuscule (but then, I'm comparing to Ilford's...)

Give it a good rinse after stop, and your fix lasts much longer (3 fill / dump cycles and shake it good for 5 seconds on each fill)

Yeah, 10 films is pretty low, but it's 944 yen (730 for the fixer plus 214 for 1L of distilled water), so it's about 94 yen per film which is adequately cheap for me.

I would personally buy a lot and mix up a new batch every 10 films rather than doing a clearing test periodically or extending the time, since standing around waiting and agitating is probably the worst part of developing (actually, second worse, cutting and sleeving is the absolute worst). Rinsing after the stop might be desirable so I don't have to make new fixer so often, but I wouldn't know how much it extends the lifetime of the fixer by without a test...so easiest is to just stick to documentation and rotate out the fixer every 10 films.

The AdoFix Plus liquid fixer can do 90 rolls per liter of concentrate. But was sold out at the moment from my usual store.

lamerko said:

If I'm not mistaken, this is actually the classic ORWO/Agfa A-300 fixator. Adox used to sell it as Adox A-300 before they rebanded it. Contains Sodium Thiosulfate and Potassium Metabisulfite. This is NOT a quick fixator - longer fix times are needed. Its capacity can be increased if the time is increased after the first few films, but this means increasing the washing time as well. Generally requires a longer wash than an ammonium thiosulfate-based fixator.

Click to expand...

I think you're correct, msds lists potassium metabisulfite, EU doesn't require the listing of non hazardous chemicals, so no mention of other ingredient.