How do I cut 9 1/2" long roll aerial recon film down to use in 8X10?

popdoc said:

I’ve got a roll of 9 1/2. How do you cut it down to size?
Want to use it for my 8x10 and 4x5 work. It’s so thin/flexible I don’t have a reliable way to “get it right”.
Thanks!

Click to expand...

Here's how I've done it for at least 15 years. Expect dust and other artifacts, it isn't perfect!


This cheap Fiskars roll cutter works the best. A standard 12" ruler fits tight between the top and bottom edge. Then a piece of black masking tape keeps the film from slipping under the ruler giving a positive stop at my just less than 8 inch width. Notice the film long roll in the tray. Keeps it lined up so the film rolls out and rides parallel with the cutters edge to give a perfect 90 degree cut.




I roll out over the ruler and do the 10" length cut first. In the dark you can click your fingernail in the slots and know where that edge is at. A bit less than 10". Make your first cut from the roll here.



Then flip it 90 degrees and set the edge against the ruler for the 8"cut



You now have a nice 8X10 sheet ready to load. No notches needed, it curls into the emulsion.



Ready to shoot. It gets easy after about a million times. I can do it in the dark.



Hope that helps some of you. 8X10 at .85 cents a sheet on really really nice panchromatic easy to use film.

For 5X7's I peel up the ruler and put it at the 5" mark and cut a 9 1/2" X 5" piece. Then I click with my fingernail to set the 7" end where it needs to be for the final cut. 4X5 I wouldn't bother with. Too fussy. But I do 6.5X8.5 all the time. The least waste film of all. Roll out and cut your 6.5 length and then trim an inch off for the 8.5. Really slick! 5X8 would be very easy also. 7X11 is easy but wasteful. You have to cut at the 11 then trim your 9.5 down to the 7, so 2.5X11 waste on those. Still, I do it all the time.

Oh, I do everything emulsion side down. Clean clean clean. I don't use white gloves, the tactility is too necessary. Cut film after you wash the dishes and your hands are clean and soft.

You got a roller knive where one can lift up the bridge with the roller. First time I see such. Over here offered are roller knives with a static bridge and a pressure strip that obly yields a very tiny slit which then is tightened by the roller running over. Such design is not not made with scratch sensitive foils in mind. Here the alternative are guillotine knives, where there is a rather wide gap under the pressure strut when the knive is still up.

Cutters and roll holders completely from metal likely reduce the artifacts from static dust.

Do you use the resting strips?

The bridge with roller holds the film steady during the cut. It never marks the film. It has worked very well for 15 years. I’ve replaced the roller blade one time. Supposedly self sharpens I think.

I use that same cutter to cut 3 1/4 x4 1/4
I placed small strips of Dyno label tape in appropriate places on the cutter bed to act as stops

WOW Somehow I missed this. Thank You Jim Galli!

SONY DSC by Nokton48, on Flickr

Spynet Night Vision Goggles, and a 9.5" roll of Plus-X Aerographic arrived here today. I'll cut this film down to 18x24cm (only requires one cut!) or 8x10 which requires two cuts. The night vision goggles WORK in my darkroom but will need some getting used to.

Haven't tried yet: Will let u know when I do

Nokton48 said:

Haven't tried yet: Will let u know when I do

Click to expand...

Have you tried these yet? Any fogging on the film?