...If you are expecting that it would consistently gives you the good exposure then it won't.
I am trying to do a complex indoor / flash outdoor setup and, while my assumption is that whether I meter indoors, outdoors, or form the flash, these are all relative to an absolute EV, i.e. it is not relative to 50% grey or anything else, and if I take an incident meter reading of the same light on different days or in different situations, I should come up with the same values each time.
I decided to test this (staying away from stuff like back-lighting that might mess with the reading vs what the camera captures), and in some instances the exposures from my D610 looked correct, but in others they looked up to two stops too light
Technical: I am using the incident sphere on a Polaris flash meter, which on the Polaris does not recess into the meter (no haters, please: we buy what we can afford). Because I was mainly testing low light situations, I was alternating between ISO 4000 and ISO 1600, don't know if high ISO's would affect accuracy. I have been careful to not shoot too reflective a surface, and have varied between dark and light.
Could you explain some more? Unless you are referring to e.g. backlit scenes or highly reflective subjects etc that would screw with your exposure, surely the whole idea behind incident metering is meant to be totally consistent?
The incident meter measure the light falling on the meter and it's consistent if the light falling on the meter is the same every where in the scene. If you photograph a scene that there is half of the scene in the shade and the other in bright sun then where do you place the meter?
With some modern hi-tech light meters from the leading manufacturers, the incidental flash meter reading tells you what proportion of the reading is fash and what proportion is daylight, I find this facility very useful with my Kenko KFM 2100 meter in balancing window light and fill in flash in general.
There a few situations that incident meter does not work as well as reflective, best examples that comes to mind is the last edition of AA's book the negative. His example is a distance house with a door in bright light, the foreground an ivy covered gate in shade. If you meter for the gate the door will be too bright, if you meter for the door the gate will be too dark. You can incident meter both and split the difference while bracketing. With the ZS you meter for the gate and develop for the door. Of course that only really works with sheet film.
I find incident metering the most consistent metering there is. Works for me with 100% rate of success.
If you are shooting a normal scene, such as a portrait with a normal background and normal (not extreme) lighting, and the incident meter is placed on your subject pointing to the most important light source, chances are you'll get a perfect exposure right away.
The polaris flash meters are good machines, no reason to make fun of them.
In my experience, unless you are measuring lighting ratios, the dome of the meter should be pointed to the camera, not the light source.he incident meter is placed on your subject pointing to the most important light source
In my experience, unless you are measuring lighting ratios, the dome of the meter should be pointed to the camera, not the light source.
beyond Adams and btzs and compensating for exposure with development,
the simple answer (to me). is point the ball at the camera & go.
If the subject is backlit, and meter like this the side of the subject facing you will be OK and
background over exposed. What's important to you?
Chan has a good point though and it would need a bit of thought or bracketing.
The great thing about incident is the sun is a light source and exposure doesn't change over the
area you're photographing. Taking a pic from one side of the grand canyon? So what?
detail in the shade over there? compensate, put a shadow over the ball probably close 'nuff.
I would place the meter back in my pocket and find another subjectThe incident meter measure the light falling on the meter and it's consistent if the light falling on the meter is the same every where in the scene. If you photograph a scene that there is half of the scene in the shade and the other in bright sun then where do you place the meter?
I would place the meter back in my pocket and find another subject
Seriously, there is no way to capture both the shadow details of the shaded half of the scene and the highlight details of the sunny half. You will have to decide which matters most and meter accordingly.
I am trying to do a complex indoor / flash outdoor setup and, while my assumption is that whether I meter indoors, outdoors, or form the flash, these are all relative to an absolute EV, i.e. it is not relative to 50% grey or anything else, and if I take an incident meter reading of the same light on different days or in different situations, I should come up with the same values each time.
I decided to test this (staying away from stuff like back-lighting that might mess with the reading vs what the camera captures), and in some instances the exposures from my D610 looked correct, but in others they looked up to two stops too light
Technical: I am using the incident sphere on a Polaris flash meter, which on the Polaris does not recess into the meter (no haters, please: we buy what we can afford). Because I was mainly testing low light situations, I was alternating between ISO 4000 and ISO 1600, don't know if high ISO's would affect accuracy. I have been careful to not shoot too reflective a surface, and have varied between dark and light.
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