How can I be so wrong with Velvia?

[ChrisC]

Well, there you go. I think you might stand a good chance of solving your problem this way. Since it has happened before, I am surprised you did not think that it might be the problem again, as opposed to the film.

Why I didn't think of this is the problem in the past has just been the meter not really metering at all. It's just flashed 'over' regardless. I've never had it give me wrong readings in the past that I'm aware of. I think a good test tomorrow should give me a good place to start, and also save up for a nice new incident/reflected meter, which I've been meaning to do for my LF work for a while.

 

[Pupfish]

As you were perhaps standing in the sun for the first posted shot but in the shade for the 2nd, could be that you have a light leak. The film looks fogged on the edges. One way to test would be to do some "B" exposures of perhaps a minute or so, with the lens cap on, in full sun.

 

[Photo Engineer]

In strong sunlight, I have noticed the meter reading on my Mamiya change if I move my eye away from the eyepiece and some sunlight leaks around my eye. This was very bad with my old RB and CdS hood, but is still a slightly noticable problem with the RZ prism. I doubt if this is a real problem, but you should be aware that light can get in through the eyepiece to a small extent and have an effect.

PE

 

[msdemanche]

I really feel you overexposed at least two stops. I always have to remind myself that with transparency film I use my luna pro to get an average reading and then get a reflected reading from something that I consider a highlight but not white. In black and white I would think of it as a zone 8 area. I then see what the difference in f stops are for the two readings. It should be around two stops and as such I now can get an idea of how much to underexpose the high lights to get good color saturation. I posted two images to the gallery that I used as a sort of test of this theory and the 2009 I find to be more accurate. I used velvia for one and provia for the other and as far as i am concerned both of those are high contrast films.
I truly think you have some sort of meter problem with your camera. Since my two 120's have no meters I really use the hand held. I find it well worth the money. good luck michel

 

[StorminMatt]

Try some Kodak Kodachrome or Ektachrome.

I'd REALLY like to know where you can get 120 Kodachrome processed.

 

[Smudger]

Perhaps not strictly on topic,but you can get a good approximation of the spot coverage of your metering prism (or any in-camera meter for that matter), by waving your camera around in front of a bright light and noting the way the readings change.

 

[lxdude]

You could try metering incident using an 18% grey card held in front of the lens, then shoot at that setting. Quick and easy, and once you've set your exposure it's good until the light changes. So long as you're in the same light as your subject, that should be very accurate.
Also, make sure your aperture is closing all the way consistently.

 

[ChrisC]

Alright after playing around today I finally figured out what the problem is.

I always shoot in DOF preview mode. I've just enjoyed composing and seeing what's in focus, and I've never had a problem doing this being too dim with the nice big viewfinder. Only, not only does the lens tell the meter what aperture it's shooting at, but it also meters based on how much light's hitting the prism finder. So stop down, and every stop you're doubling the problem.

I feel like such a muppet, but at the same time I can see how easy this is to do.

Now I'm actually looking forward to shooting slides again, and I should be getting much better results with B&W too. Argh, the months I've wasted!

 

[2F/2F]

There ya go. Glad you don't have to service any backs.

Yet another reason to add to the list of advantages of using a handheld meter and manual exposure.

You might find your D of F scale to be helpful as well.

 

[ChrisC]

There ya go. Glad you don't have to service any backs.

Yet another reason to add to the list of advantages of using a handheld meter and manual exposure.

You might find your D of F scale to be helpful as well.

That's why I was in DOF mode all the time as it made using the scale just make a little more sense in my head. I'm well and truly out of that way of thinking now though. It also makes perfect sense why the first photo in this thread was 5 stops over exposed with me shooting at f16. I'm so over the moon it was a simple fix and hopefully I won't be too afraid to shoot that box of 4x5 Velvia in my fridge now.

The only downside to my happiness is I had a roll of B&W from this same waterfall I thought might be alright, but seeing as I also shot that at f16 and f22 I think I'll have to start planning a return trip.

I guess this is the camera gods getting me back for never taking a darkslide out of my LF camera before I've closed the lens

 

[nicefor88]

Hi Chris,
Your first picture (waterfall) appears at least 3 stops overexposed. Did you check all the settings (ISO, compensation, aperture ring)?