Great for architectural interiors.
First of all to minimize the convergent lines, check the bubble level and keep it as close to level as you can.
Second, instead of getting as wide a photograph as you can, place one [or two] large objects close to the camera and let the rest fall where it may for striking compositions.
Look for compositions where is camera is very low to the ground or high up looking down.
The SWC is rectilinearly correct so put an adapter on the back of the camera and 45 degree viewfinder and walk around watching how doorways and arches look as you walk through them. In a door way, tilt it up and bring it to level and then down to see how parallel lines move.
An article by Ken Rockwell. Yes he is not my favorite but is does bring some good things to the party.
Another article with some sage advice.
Ultra-Wide Angle Lenses: A Guide (+6 Reasons to Love Them)
The ultimate guide to ultra-wide lenses. Learn what ultra-wides are, what they offer, and when you should use them to spice up your photos!digital-photography-school.com
Thanks a lot for this Sirius Glass (nice name).
I’m going to have to read it again a couple times and think on it. If you don’t mind, I’m probably going to have to come back and ask you some questions later
Yes, I lusted after a 30mm Arsat lens for my Kiev Medium Format cameras for a long time, but once I got the lens it sank it that it's not a good lens for general photography and you have to adapt to that aesthetic.
It's a big chunk of glass to tote around and you have to think differently to use it effectively, but when you do find a good composition, it is quite satisfying.
It just takes some time and patience to appreciate the focal length and it's applications.
Yes, I think this is also partly the issue for me.once I got the lens it sank-in that it's not a good lens for general photography and you have to adapt to that aesthetic.
Indeed, at the beginning I had a slightly similar issue with the move from 50 to 35 on 35mm format. Although it wasn’t as difficult, perhaps it’s the same issue here.It just takes some time and patience to appreciate the focal length and its applications.
Yes I’ve been thinking it’s going to have to be one of this two cameras with you when you go out situations. The 35mm in trouser pocket and the super wide off the shoulder or in the bag for when opportunity presents.Once I learned to how to utilize them, I started using them more, but they still never get used as much as 28mm, 35mm, and 50mm lenses on 35mm cameras. You may want to keep that in mind before buying a very wide ang
By the way, I took the Hasselblad SWC and wandered around Greek island towns with very narrow streets and the Plaka area of Athens and used it almost like a normal lens.
I find wides difficult too, but I’ve had some luck with 21mm (on 35mm format—not quite the 20mm-and-less range you asked for, but right on the cusp). The most useful thought I have, borrowed from something I read somewhere (likely here), is that the point isn’t to get more stuff in the frame; it’s to get closer to the subject and change the perspective accordingly.
Looking at what I’ve shot with that length, the winners mostly seem to be environmental portraits and tight interior spaces. I don’t have an interest in architectural interiors either, but sometimes there’s an interesting shot in a small room.
-NT
If you are on a dock, walk up to the bow of the ship and aim a very wide angle lens up at the bow. Do you like what you see?
Friedlander’s America by Car is one of my favorite books. Exclusively shot with the SWC.
Lots of wide angle examples in his work in general.
Thanks NT. How do you avoid the wide angle unflattering warping/widening of subjects in these portraits?
I was wondering this looking at Friedlander´s Dressing Up Fashion Week book (link below). I dont really see the wharping and wondered how he managed it.
Here, this work looks fantastic and a brilliant use for such a lens, really capturing the hecticness in a beautiful way and seemingly without wide angle warping and fattening
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