Well, house brand vegetables in cans have the same weight but the water to vegetable ratio is different, more water. The house brands have less spice, the house brands have lower quality meat, the house brands have more defects in the veggies and more fat on the meat.
You judge.
PE
I'm just getting back into the darkroom after a 23 year hiatus. I've done some research into what's available now as opposed to back then and have opted to purchase Arista chemicals, film and paper to give them a try. Years ago I used nothing but Kodak products and was very happy with them. Plus-X was my favorite film but it is not available in 4x5 anymore. The point is to try different brands and see what you like. I may not like the Arista when I get it but who knows. It may become a favorite.
Exactly. One difficulty with house brands is the lack of disclosure of the actual manufacturer. The distributor can change manufacturer sources at any time without notice or warning and cheapen the product. I have been witnessing this lately with a major chain grocer and have stopped buying their house brands. As for photo items, you need to test it for yourself decide if it floats your boat. Be alert to changes in characteristics with new batches.
Bob
I do know that Kodak is now permitted to package products under other labels, but this does not mean that they supply the latest generation of materials under someone elses name.
PE
As for the KMAX and TMAX in the MSDS, note that the Kodak formula contains a phenidone type developing agent whereas the KMAX does not. Also, the Kodak formula does not contain any potassium salts. In addition, the Kodak developer contains DEA, but the other one does not list the alkali at all.
These are thoughts to consider when thinking about similarity.
PE
I had this thought, why don't I just look at the bio hazard sheet and compare chemicals? (I see where you get a manufacturer for a house brand Arista Liquid Film Developer = Clayton).
Anyway, as an example, I compared KMAX with TMAX:
TMAX:
50 - 60 Water (7732-18-5)
35 - 45 Diethanolamine-sulphur dioxide complex (63149-47-3)
1 - 5 Sodium metabisulphite (7681-57-4)
1 - 5 Hydroquinone (123-31-9)
0.1 - 1 4-hydroxymethyl-4-methyl-1-phenyl-3-pyrazolidinone (13047-13-7)
KMAX:
POTASSIUM SULFITE 10117-38-1 N.E. N.E. 10-15
HYDROQUINONE 123-31-9 2mg/m³ 2mg/m³ 1-5
DIETHYLENE GLYCOL 111-46-6 10mg/m³ (WEEL) 50 ppm TWA 1-5
Now, it's been decades since my college chemistry classes, but from what I remember (not much), aside from the Hydroquinone component, these developers aren't identical. BUT! I guess TMAX developer is just a Hydroquinone developer and when shopping for a developer, I should just look for a Hydroquinone developer? The Hydroquinone is what really counts?
That's what I thought and was asking about. Thank you.
I pretty much have come to the conclusion that, in regards to my film and developer choice, it's TMX, TMY-2, and TMAX - accept no substitutes!
I'd like to know why, in this era of modern film bases that don't need hardeners, why Kodak still puts a hardener in their fixers.
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