Horseman 985 - rail guide cleaning.

[Lollipop]

Dear All,
I recently bough a Horseman 985 in near mint condition.
The 90mm lens is in outstanding condition and everything works properly except the rail guide, which is a bit tough in forward and backward moving due the old and dirty grease still on rails.
Taking a look to the mechanism it seems easy to dismount for cleaning (seems ketp in place by just eight screws - see picture) and that encourages me to DIY.
Did anyone already do that?
What would be the proper degreaser? I thinking to the isopropyl alcohol.
And what about for the new grease?

Thank you

 

[AgX]

I would start with the least aggressive at hand. If you employ damp cotton buds or similar and cover the varnished parts you could use more aggressive solvent if necessary.

 

[beemermark]

Auto parts stores sell electrical cleaner in spray cans that will not harm paint or plastic. Does great for removing old dried up grease. Then re-lube with a very light machine oil.

 

[shutterfinger]

The bed/rails are built similar to Crown/Speed Graphics.
The outer guides hold the rain in place. You may have to remove the focus lock lever and remove both guides then lift the rails out of the bed. With the rails removed the focus pinion should be easy to remove.
Just about any degreaser will work. Do not get it on the focus knobs.
I use https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-...?keywords=teflon+grease&qid=1638593773&sr=8-3 but any similar medium weight grease will work.
You can save yourself some time and trouble by running the rails out as far as they will go, clean the guide edges of the rails and the grove in the guides with 90% alcohol then wipe the rail edge and guide grove with a cotton swab coated with grease then wipe the excess off so that a sheen remains. Now use a sharp pointed scribe or dowel and push out any grease/crud from the rail gears on the bottom of the rails. Once the gear tracks are clean coat with a light layer of grease. Rn the rails in and out several times. If still too stiff disassemble, clean, lube. On reassembly the rails should align with the body rails and have no side play.

 

[BrianShaw]

... as an alternative to grease, a dry lubricant will not attract dust/dirt and provide a very smooth action:

http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/chain-lubricants/dry-lube

 

[Lollipop]

Thank you all for the suggestions, that let me think that I use a special lube, for the dry season, for the chain of my mountaing bike: il leaves a smooth veil that seems more wax than oil.
Regarding the rail guide dismounting: are there risks to loose the rangefinder calibration? Because dispite the camera age it's still correct.

 

[madNbad]

If you can clean and lubricate the rails without removing them from the bed, that is your best option. Considering the age of the camera and currently the rangefinder is aligned, there is always the chance if the rails are removed, they may shift and affect the rangefinder focus. It may not be much but with a camera of that age, it's best to take the safe route.

 

[shutterfinger]

For some reason this thread did not show up with new, unread posts today so I missed 5, 6, and 7 until now.
This camera's rangefinder uses a cam cut for a specific lens. The cam as seen in your last picture appears to be a rectangular block that fits into the operating mechanism of the bed which has a protrusion at the body end that mates with a similar protrusion in the base of the body that operates the rangefinder mirrors or prisms. As long as the body part of the rangefinder mechanism is not disassembled the rangefinder should be fine as long as the bed mechanism is correctly reassembled.


The thin layer of grease, more of a trace than a thin layer, as originally used by the manufacturer should not be a problem for dust unless the camera is used in a very dusty area. I have never used bike dry lube but it may prove to be a good substitute for the original grease. A very small drop of machine oil on the focus pinion shaft between the focus knob and the bed at the bed edge may help also. Apply to one side and allow it to migrate down the shaft for 15 to 30 minutes before applying to the other side. The drop should be about 1/2 of a flat straight pin head.

 

[Dan Daniel]

One thing I haven't heard people mention is the possibility of corrosion. The surfaces might need a good polishing before any lubrication.

 

[Lollipop]

If you can clean and lubricate the rails without removing them from the bed, that is your best option. Considering the age of the camera and currently the rangefinder is aligned, there is always the chance if the rails are removed, they may shift and affect the rangefinder focus. It may not be much but with a camera of that age, it's best to take the safe route.

Yes, it makes sense. Thank you.

 

[Lollipop]

For some reason this thread did not show up with new, unread posts today so I missed 5, 6, and 7 until now.
This camera's rangefinder uses a cam cut for a specific lens. The cam as seen in your last picture appears to be a rectangular block that fits into the operating mechanism of the bed which has a protrusion at the body end that mates with a similar protrusion in the base of the body that operates the rangefinder mirrors or prisms. As long as the body part of the rangefinder mechanism is not disassembled the rangefinder should be fine as long as the bed mechanism is correctly reassembled.


The thin layer of grease, more of a trace than a thin layer, as originally used by the manufacturer should not be a problem for dust unless the camera is used in a very dusty area. I have never used bike dry lube but it may prove to be a good substitute for the original grease. A very small drop of machine oil on the focus pinion shaft between the focus knob and the bed at the bed edge may help also. Apply to one side and allow it to migrate down the shaft for 15 to 30 minutes before applying to the other side. The drop should be about 1/2 of a flat straight pin head.

I would clean the rails with kerosene applied in very small quantity with a little paintbrush.
What do you think?

 

[Lollipop]

One thing I haven't heard people mention is the possibility of corrosion. The surfaces might need a good polishing before any lubrication.

Corrosion doesn’t seem an issue: rails seems in stainless stess

 

[shutterfinger]

I would clean the rails with kerosene applied in very small quantity with a little paintbrush.
What do you think?

Kerosene is a petroleum distillate therefore I would not use it on a camera for any reason. 90% Isopropyl Alcohol is cheap and readily available, use it.

 

[Philippe-Georges]

For this I use BALLISTOL gun oil on my Linhof, Hasselblad and Leica.
That gun oil cleans and lubricates, but Ballistol has the characteristic to gently work into the metal surface structure, isn't aggressive, doesn't harm the skin, drys clean and doesn't leave greasy stains. It also rejuvenate the leather covering of the camera body.
Apply gently and sparingly, I use a Qtip.

Gunsmiths, hunters, gunmen, soldiers, fishermen, (motor-)bike riders, hikers, farmers and horsemen, use it as it has been specifically designed fort them about a century ago and is still in production...

I don't know about other brands of gun oil.