Hoping for some bellows help

[bobwysiwyg]

I've had limited macro experience with my 35mm's (Nikon FM and FE). I've only used a 55mm micro-Nikkor, f3.5. I had lots of fun with it, but always wanted more. as in a bellows. I picked up a non-Nikon bellows unit off eBay and it seems to be in good working condition. The world of bellows on the 35mm is all new and I was hoping someone might be able to decipher/explain the markings on the rails for me. There are two different sets on each rail and the sets on the two rails differ from each other as well. Attached are some pics. Sorry for the quality.

 

[JBrunner]

I've had limited macro experience with my 35mm's (Nikon FM and FE). I've only used a 55mm micro-Nikkor, f3.5. I had lots of fun with it, but always wanted more. as in a bellows. I picked up a non-Nikon bellows unit off eBay and it seems to be in good working condition. The world of bellows on the 35mm is all new and I was hoping someone might be able to decipher/explain the markings on the rails for me. There are two different sets on each rail and the sets on the two rails differ from each other as well. Attached are some pics. Sorry for the quality.

The numbers are magnification and exposure factors so you can set an appropriate exposure compensation for the bellows extension. You'll have to figure out which scale applies to your use. I suspect the side with the high magnifications is for use if two bellows units are ganged together, and with the single bellows you will use the side that starts at 1x, but I am not familiar with this unit, nor am I the king of macro. If you can meter through the camera with the lens stopped down to what you are going to shoot, like my k1000 will do, you can forgo it.

 

[bobwysiwyg]

Ah, makes sense. I had figured the magnification, but the other units had me stumped. The unit does seem to have provisions for stacking another bellows to the front (which I don't have, nor likely need). It sure does get dim after focusing and stopping down. I think the FM with the red diode indicators for exposure approximation might be better. The meter needle on the FE is pretty hard to make out. Thanks a lot for the info.

 

[Christopher Walrath]

Wirelessly posted (BlackBerry9000/4.6.0.167 Profile/MIDP-2.0 Configuration/CLDC-1.1 VendorID/102 UP.Link/6.3.0.0.0)

I concur , Bob. Of my srT101 and my XG-M, the srT is my favorite camera. With my bellows attached the LED of the XG-M is by far the best suited for the reduction of visible light in the viewfinder.

 

[pcyco]

hallo

i also bought some day abo some bellows. i also used a makro lens and wanted more.
my bellows are m 42 and so i had to buy some adabters to try all my lenses.

my last intension was the best i mounted my rodagon enlarber lens.

there are some formulas to look for the best lightmetering.
for example: ([used bellowlength / focal length)+1]² = the factor to be multiplikate the exposurtime.

a very good way to learn is a digicam (dont hang me ).
same advantages as a pola fast and low quality

very helpfol is mirror lockup and a cabelrelease

analog greetings

thomas

 

[Denis R]

I picked up a Nikon bellows unit off eBay and it seems to be in good working condition. The world of bellows on the 35mm is not new and I was hoping someone might be able to decipher/explain the markings on the rails for me. There are two different sets on each rail and the sets on the two rails differ from each other as well. Attached are some pics. Sorry for the quality.

you have bellows focusing attachment for nikon f


When using the bellows with the nikkor 50mm for f or the nikkor 135mm in short mount, approximate reproduction ratios corresponding to various extension lengths of the bellows and exposure factors reqiured for the extension lengths can be read along the scales engraved on the rails by means of the black colored upper and lower figures respectively.

Choose either of the scales depending on whether the 135mm or 50mm lens is used. In both cases the front edge of the lens-mount slider serves as the index for reading the scales.




The red-colored figures along the scales are to be read when the lens-side slider of the bellows is brought to the limit (not in contact with the lens-side brace) and extension of the bellows is changed by moving the camera-mount slider, the rear edge of which serves as an index for reading the scale. Focusing is made by adjusting the focus ring of the lens.



for use with slide copying adapter used on bellows attachment for nikon f

Determine the extension of the bellows by sliding the camera-side slider, after loosening the lock lever on the camera mount slider, along the rails on which the reproduction ratios and exposure factors for duplication are read, use the red colored figures. Set the rear edge of the camera-mount slider at the desired red graduation line. Focus is made by adjusting the focus ring of the lens.

 

[Q.G.]

After extension/magnification is set, you focus by moving the entire set up back or forth, i.e. varying only one parameter - lens to subject distance.
Not by using the focusing ring on the lens, which changes both lens to subject and lens to film distances, and with it magnification (and exposure correction factor).

I picked up a non-Nikon bellows unit off eBay [...]

It says "Nippon Kogaku" on the thing, which, i believe, together with the famous Nikon "F", indicates that it is an original Nikon unit.

 

[Q.G.]

Anyways, focusing is made by adjusting the focus ring of the lens.

Not if you want to keep magnification fixed.
Focussing usually is done by moving the entire setup to and from the subject.

 

[Spazoid1965]

After extension/magnification is set, you focus by moving the entire set up back or forth, i.e. varying only one parameter - lens to subject distance.
Not by using the focusing ring on the lens, which changes both lens to subject and lens to film distances, and with it magnification (and exposure correction factor).



It says "Nippon Kogaku" on the thing, which, i believe, together with the famous Nikon "F", indicates that it is an original Nikon unit.

Yes this is an original NIKON product. I have the same bellow unit. Have you tried mounting this on your camera yet? This bellow unit is "NON-AI". I believe both of the cameras you mentioned are "AI". Make sure this unit does not damage the apeture indexing pin. I do not have either of these cameras so I cannot tell you for sure if it is safe to mount. I know it is safe on my "NON-AI" Nikkormat FT2. But on my DSLR I must use a short "AI" extension tube between the camera and bellow unit. Mainly becuase this unit will not clear the battery compartment. And I'm not sure if it will clear the index pin.

The engraving on the rails is not for the 50mm lens at all. The 50mm lens will be useless at any extension greateter than about 100mm. As the focusing distance will be inside the lens. This unit you have will extend to approximately 150mm ( 6 inches). Most bellow will only extend to 4". These engraving marks are for the Bellows-Nikkor-P 105mm f/4.0 and the Bellows-Nikkor 135mm f/4.0. Both of these lenses have no focusing ring. As focusing with bellows is done by moving the entire camera and bellows to and from the subject. Other lenses can be used on this bellow assymbly, but the engraved markings will not apply. I did a silly little expierement with this bellow unit a while back if you want to se the results. Here's the link.
http://tinyurl.com/37gaxvt
If you have any question just drop a line this way.

 

[Q.G.]

The engraving on the rails is not for the 50mm lens at all. The 50mm lens will be useless at any extension greateter than about 100mm. As the focusing distance will be inside the lens.

Will it???
Is the 50 mm 'retrofocus' to that degree?

 

[John Koehrer]

There are several scales on the rail for different fl lenses. There was also a 135mm Bellows Nikkor that was in a short mount and would focus to infinity.
The attachment point on the front isn't for an additional bellows but for a slide copying attachment.