Nick Zentena said:You could look at the Fuji Hunt website to.
srs5694 said:OTOH, even if Kodak discontinues its smaller-sized kits, it's likely you could buy smaller kits from others, so mixing it yourself might not become necessary.
Rob Landry said:Aside from Kodak and Fuji, I don't think there are any other off-the-shelf sources of E6 chemistry anymore (come to think of it, I've never seen Fuji chemistry available off-the-shelf). Agfa is defunct, Tetenal may be available, but I doubt for very long. Any others that may be available?
Man, I love E6, but things aren't looking too great.
Rob Landry said:Aside from Kodak and Fuji, I don't think there are any other off-the-shelf sources of E6 chemistry anymore (come to think of it, I've never seen Fuji chemistry available off-the-shelf). Agfa is defunct, Tetenal may be available, but I doubt for very long. Any others that may be available?
cmichael said:Hello Kino,
I noticed that you live in Dayton. I have been home brewing my C41 and RA4 chemistry for the past couple of years and am quite happy with results I have been getting. If you would like to try some home brewed chemistry before making an investment into the necessary supplies, PM me. I live in Centerville and work in Moraine. I could make you a sample batch of the developers I have been using if you would like to pick it up.
cmichael said:For C41, I have been using the published Dignan C41 developer (not the divided formula) and use it on a one shot basis. I use a potassium ferricyanide bleach along with a fixer formula also published by Dignan. I have a blix formula that I have used with success but have switched to a separate bleach-fix process for fear of silver retention. I never noticed a problem with the blix, just playing it safe with a separate bleach-fix as discussed in other threads. When I did use the blix, I always mixed it fresh for that developing session and tossed it afterwards.
cmichael said:For RA4, I had some trouble with the Bill Laut formula but it was a good starting point. I found it to be very hot and caused excessive contrast and some yellowing of the whites (chemical fogging?). I invested in a cheap pH meter and found that if I bring the pH down to 10.2 (according to my meter anyway) that I get very nice results. I also switched from sodium chloride to potassium chloride and increased the quantities to reduce fog and contrast. For the RA4 blix, I just use the Kodak 10L kit as the prices of ferric ammonium, EDTA make brewing your own cost prohibitive.
I have only used these formulas with Fuji films and papers in a Jobo Duolab processor. Completely untested with any other film/paper brand, so your mileage may very.
cmichael said:I enjoy brewing/developing my own. It does take time, but I find it rewarding. I mostly shoot b/w and shoot color sporadically. I mix up what I need, when I need it and do not have to worry about expired developer, etc. I find it very economical as well, costing less than $0.60 to develop a roll of film if doing 4 or more rolls at a time. I mostly shoot 120, so this is much cheaper than the $6-8 charged at Click Camera or Malones for film processing only. A liter of RA4 developer costs me about $1.40 and I can easily process 20+ sheets of 8x10s in a liter using the vertical slots on my Duolab. When I process 11x14s, I have to use the drum. The drum has a tendency to oxidize the developer so I use it one shot this way giving me about 7 11x14s per liter.
As for E6, I have not tried brewing my own.
Regards,
cmichael
Kino said:Today, during lunch break, I was able to contact "Mike", the sales rep at CPAC Imaging and speak to him about his line of mini lab color chemistry (they have b&w too).
They have RA4, C41 and E6 color and is one of the few places that sells b&w kits for bulk processing.
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