Are there "grades" or "qualities" of distilled water like there is drinking water, or is all distilled water the same? If the latter, I think I'll just get one of those 5-gallon cubes of distilled water with the spigot on the bottom, mix in 34oz of isopropyl alcohol and give it a shake before I pour. Then I'll setup two tanks, put film in one for a time, pull and shake it off, then put it in the other.
Assuming that there's slightly more than the normal amount of contaminants in my tap/wash water, how long should the film sit in bath one before the quality of the water in the bath and that which saturates the emulsion equalizes?
Also -- I'm thinking that any archival regime must include selenium toning, and any rinse after the KRST should follow the precautions above, right?
-KwM-
It wasn't Drew - was it ic-racer?If I remember right, which isn't often, Drew Wiley had a serious problem with Sistan. I think it was with prints, but can't remember for sure. Something about yellow blotches or something. Maybe he'll chime in?
Well, I said I didn't always remember right so you had fair warning. Thanks Matt and yes it was polygot.It wasn't Drew - was it ic-racer?
EDIT: it was polyglot: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)
We were discussing toner for the enhanced stability of film negatives here, not print color. That said, your points are well taken, and I can report similar results.The problem with using toners to achieve archival permanence is that toning must go to completion resulting in a color shift that most photographers do not want. A better choice would be something like Sistan. These products contain potassium thiocyanate which remains in the print to protect it. They are used as a final bath after washing is completed. However using fresh fixer and just washing a print correctly will do the job. I have prints that are decades old that are still fine. They are just drugstore prints but water was cheap when they were made.
There are some photoflood alternatives for home-brew but they are just similar or the same chemicals; so you won't like it;on the other hand , I can recommend just a last bath in distilled water.I switched to that after having some stains from photoflood.distilled water works well.alcohol on the other hand, dries negs too fast and makes them curl and the emulsion potentially brittle. stick to distilled water.My crystal ball tells me that I'll eventually be using chems mixed from bulk ingredients exclusively. I'd like to wean myself off Photoflo. The whole "pouring formaldihyde down the drain" thing, not to mention covering my negs with something after they're all "clean" from the wash is something to which I'd like to explore alternatives.
Is there a homebrew wetting agent out there? I think I remember there's some folks who just give their film a distilled water rinse, then hang it to dry. What are the procedural and chemical alternatives to photoflo?
-KwM-
[added later]
Should have done a search first. Found (there was a url link here which no longer exists), where non photoflo folks seem to use a combo of distilled/filtered water, isopropal alchohol and something called LFN. What's LFN?
good to know; never heard of itFuji-Hunt has this great stuff called Banstatic. It is used in color processing for a final rinse. I put a few drops in at the end of the wash. It not only prevents any watermarks it also makes the film attact less dust. It makes a really big difference in the darkroom.
The idea of toning to completion comes from an IPI report.
The Image Permanence Institute (IPI) at the Rochester Institute of Technology (RIT) in Rochester, New York extensively researched redox blemishes in microfilms5.
I have the PhotoFlo MSDS and it is not formaldehyde at all. instead it is.......
2. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
Weight % - Component - (CAS Registry No.)
60-70 Water (007732-18-5)
25-30 Propylene glycol (000057-55-6)
5-10 p-tert-octylphenoxy polyethoxyethyl alcohol (009002-93-1)
I am sure the stuff is just as toxic.
The best of all possible worlds:
DISTILLED Water...................750 mL
Isopropyl rubbing alcohol (70%)...30 mL
Photo Flo .................................2.5 mL
Distilled Water to make.............1000 mL
it's safety is not simple. Accidentally ingesting or inhaling the fumes occasionally won't do you any harm but long term exposure by inhalation is considered dangerous. That said, like all hazardous chemicals, it can be handled safely. I have animals preserved in formaldehyde which have been safely stored and viewed for 40+ years. Basic precautions such as not whiffing the fumes come to mind for formaldehyde, having ventilation so the vapour doesn't stick around.
I have heard a recipe consisting of a gallon of distilled water, a cup of windshield washer fluid, a cup of regular rubbing alcohol, and a couple drop of Tween 20.Wouldn't Tween 20 work too in lieu of Photoflo?
(or may be not - residue?)
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