Another problem could be that the bleach is too strong and going directly from the developer to the bleach will cause an orange fog to form. This will happen instantly for example if you use a ferricyanide bleach.
With a ferricyanide bleach step you need a clearing stop bath with acetic acid and sodium sulfite, then you need a wash before going into ferricyanide or other strong bleaches.
PE
I'm afraid that those negatives are probably ruined. You see, the carryover of developer into ferricyanide will immediately oxidize it and it forms dye. The stop acidifies the coating and the sulfite acts as a scavenger for developer.
PE
And, test it first. I have not, but knowing the chemictry and what will work, that is close. I can do better, but I would have to run a lot of tests to do better with positive assurances.
PE
Is a blix the only way to not have a clearing bath after the developer? My PhotoTherm is set-up for a separate bleach and fix so I planned on using them after reading the other thread on separate fix/bleach vs. blix.
Jeremy,
Have you tried contacting PhotoTherm? They might be able to help you out.
Also, you could have PhotoTherm burn you a new chip with a different program... costs money though.
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