Anything is possible, it just depends on how much you want to spend!
Welcome to the site Phil. If you process enough film to warrant a project like this it might be worth pursuing. By enough film I mean 3 or 4 rolls a day 5 or 6 days a week. You have to factor in the cost of the parts to build the processor, and your time to assemble and test the processor.
If only!Processing film is the most boring aspect of photography. While processing I always fantasize about the film fairy coming along, waving her magic wand, and poof my film is processed, dried, and in the negative sleeves.
That's my current favourite too. Something like a printer paper-feed system would be ideal, because it's mechanically very simple. The problems you tend to get with that are mostly with film-contact -- if there's a mark or scuff on the roller, it transfers onto the film. For bonus points, once it tears a little bit of emulsion off one film, you can get a cascade failure effect -- it tears a bigger chunk off the next film, then a bigger chunk of the film after that and so on...Now if you like the challenge of a project like this, then have a go at it. I would attempt the roller method to save time having to load the film onto the reels.
Do you mean the modified Paterson tank or the rack-and-roller system?I would think some sort of machine like the first you describe would be more work to clean before and after each use (unless you use it all the time) than the time savings it creates.
The Fuji rack-and-roller machines seem to follow that principle (though the circulation diagrams are eye-wateringly complex). You have two tanks:The second machine seems reasonable if you have a way to agitate it. Just have some valves to flush everything with clean water before/after use. A possible method of avoiding agitation would be to connect the input and outputs together temporarily with a pump in the middle to circulate the liquid.
Hmm. In that case, a larger Paterson tank, a full reel set and some bigger measuring jugs might be a better option...As far as me saving time, I process multiple rolls (or sheets) of film at a time. I have both the 500ml and 1.5l paterson tanks, so I can process 1-5 rolls of 35mm, upto 3 rolls of 120, and I have 2 combi plan tanks so I can do upto 12 sheets of film. If you run a second tank five minutes after the first, you still have time do everything and get twice as much done.
Hm. Interesting solution -- I've got a few cans of 90% electronics-grade isopropyl alcohol kicking around; mixing one of those down to 70% and adding some Ilfotol wetting agent might be an experiment worth trying.As far as drying goes, sometime using a hair dryer causes film to curl too much. Low temp use is sometimes acceptable depending on technique. My negatives get a dip in 70% rubbing alcohol + photoflow as a last step and air dry quicker than water+photoflow.
Hi Phil, welcome to APUG. Just buy yourself a Polaroid camera and film and be done with it.
Bad weather makes the best photos though!
Problem with that is, I'd need a darkroom. Or I'd need to rig up (and program) a linear actuator to lift the film out of the tank and dunk it in the next one. A machine like that would be HUGE.Use Meccano metal pieces to create a dip-and-dunk processor running over two or three deep tanks ending in a car-wash style hot air frenzy from the hair dryers each side of the transport mechanism
I have to clean them every week on the Fuji Frontier 570 printer we've got at work. How those rollers get covered in such a thick layer of black ichor in only a week I have no idea... Also, the drive rollers on the dryer crossover rack? Turns out they're supposed to be red, not black. Who knew? (answer: the folks running the manufacturing line in Japan)Seriously, avoid rollers like the plague. Used to hate having to clean the rollers on an Ilford print processor - hate to think what a roller could do to a nice, soft emulsion *shudder*.
Heh. I think there's a Simpsons mug with that theme -- "Efficiency." on one side, and on the other side a picture of one of those "nodding bird" toys tapping a key on a keyboard.Lazy? No, you aren't lazy, it's called 'efficient'!
I think my next mechanical project is going to be some kind of "air blade" with film as it comes off a reel fed thru it with filtered air coming out of a slit on both sides of the film, basically wiping it down. RH is really low here, and the film would dry very quickly after that.
Robert
Stop it, you're making me jealousI'm lazy - I love Jobo - load and forget until the timer goes off...
Yeah, if I modded a Fuji FP563sc (like we have at work) then I'd probably be looking at rebuilding half the replenisher system, and rejigging the tanks -- P1 and P2 would become the developer, P3-I and P3-II would end up being fix, then P4-I thru P4-III would be the wash tanks. Theoretically doable, but cleaning the machine out well enough to make it work would be "fun". And I suspect it'd involve stripping the machine down to individual parts, Haynes manual style.You could convert a C41 machine to B&W, but you're talking a fair bit of chemistry per tank..
That's partly what I'm aiming for here -- mostly it's the "efficiency" aspect, but being able to tell the machine to hold at, say, 24C and do all the process control for me would be very attractive.I like machine processing as it's consistant.....
I actually like the Fuji subtank idea; have a spinning propeller in the bottom that pulls liquid into the subtank, mixes it, passes it by the heater, then back into the main tank.you can be very inventive!
i suspect as a traditional agitation method you could adapt a windshield wiper in intermitent mode!?!?!?
I have something that beeps me at the end of the process, it's called a Paterson Triple Timer. It just doesn't go onto Timer 2 once Timer 1 finishes, you have a rather stiff slide switch to do that. Bit of a pain... :-/with some kind of a beep in the end of the development
Thing is, I'm lazy by nature...
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