Home-rolled film question

[drmoss_ca]

I have used beige-coloured masking tape in the past for attaching the end of the film to the 35mm cassette spool. Maybe I have just had a crappy roll of tape, but lately all my home-loaded 35mm films have given me grief. Mostly because the tape lets go when I try to wind on and it's the end of the film. So I take a few of the world's finest photographs and then realise the rewind knob is no longer turning when I wind on. Then I have to go into the dark, open the camera, and feed the film from the wrong end onto a developing reel. Not the end of the world, but a pain in the caudal region.
Currently switched to clear Scotch tape/Sellotape (I'm bilingual!) and I'll see if that turns out to be better, though I have dozens of home-rolled cassettes in the film freezer, and most are made up with the brown masking tape.

Ant suggestions for foolproof tape?

 

[Cholentpot]

I use classic masking tape or scotch but I make sure to curl the take around the sides of the film a bit.

 

[mshchem]

I used 3M Super 33 electrical tape when I last loaded. It will not tear. Has great adhesion, pain in the dark. I've noticed Kodak has gone away from the classic, high grade paper to what feels like a polyester tape.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I use classic masking tape or scotch but I make sure to curl the take around the sides of the film a bit.

That is what I do with masking tape. Scotch tape leaves residue when it ages while masking tape does not.

 

[Patrick Robert James]

I use shiny Scotch tape these days. I use old color cassettes with the film hanging out. I use a long enough piece to circle all the way around and back on itself. Never had one fail in the 20 years or so I've been doing it.

 

[Duceman]

On new spools, I’ll first cut a tongue to insert through the spindle of the spool, and then Scotch tape a single piece that goes around the spindle and attaches to each side of the film.

When unloading the exposed film from that spool, I’ll leave about an inch or so of film outside the cassette. On subsequent loadings, I use two pieces of Scotch tape, each the width film, and tape each side of the bulk film to the leader sticking out of the cassette.

Have never had a separation problem.

 

[Pioneer]

I use plain old scotch tape. I use a long enough strip to attach to the top of the film strip, circle all the way around the spool, then re-attach to the underneath of the tape. Since I started doing that I have not had any failures. To be totally transparent though, I rarely use auto advance or rewind cameras so I know when I have reached the end of the roll by the increased tension. The occasional times I have used these hand loads in my Canon EOS 1v or my Pentax PZ1p they haven't failed but there is probably a lot more stress on the attachment so I would not rule it out.

 

[MattKing]

I've never had problems with masking tape, as long as it is applied and adheres to both sides of the film and is wrapped around and applies and adheres to the spool as well.

 

[Cholentpot]

That is what I do with masking tape. Scotch tape leaves residue when it ages while masking tape does not.

To clarify.

I reuse commercial cassettes. I get them from the lab and just reload them. I've rarely had an issue with scratches.

 

[ozphoto]

I purchased a roll of splicing tape from my local lab and use that for my colour film, as I inadvertently used Sellotape on some film I'd chopped down, to test a camera with and that isn't good for labs. In the past, it's always been masking tape (I'd run out this time- ooops) and tape exactly like this:

applied and adheres to both sides of the film and is wrapped around and applies and adheres to the spool

 

[Bill Burk]

I like first aid paper tape.

 

[250swb]

I like the orange/yellow coloured Tamiya masking tape made for modellers, it's thin and sticks well but doesn't leave any gloop behind.

 

[Mick Fagan]

I've been using cloth bookbinding tape for around 25 years, rips easily in your hands for initial use for attaching the film to the plastic. It doesn't move, is easy to pull off of the end of the film in the dark. I use the 25mm wide version that is 25m long.

https://www.okschoolandoffice.com.a...m-Green-rolls-easy-tear-Library-Legal-Lawyers

Mick.

 

[Don_ih]

Your masking tape sounds like painter's tape - the type that releases easily. Get cheaper masking tape. The adhesive in any masking tape will eventually dry out and let go (as will clear tape) (takes years, though). Bookbinding tape and electric tape are supposed to have permanent adhesives that don't release.

 

[Nitroplait]

Your masking tape sounds like painter's tape - the type that releases easily. Get cheaper masking tape.

+1
Good quality masking/painters tape is made to release easily. Cheap masking tape typically adheres better but varies greatly from producer to producer. Don't ask me how I know.
However, the longevity of cheap tape may be questionable, and who knows what happens when frozen.
In recent years I have mostly used Scotch Magic tape (that matte semi transparent type), mostly for consistency reasons - I have never had problems with that - but I don't freeze my rolled film so your milage may vary.

 

[Don_ih]

I wouldn't freeze bulk-loaded rolls, anyway - not unless I vacuum sealed them in plastic.

 

[AgX]

I use classic masking tape or scotch but I make sure to curl the tape around the sides of the film a bit.

What do you mean by this?
Sticking the tape to both, base and emulsion side?

 

[guangong]

Masking tape is not supposed to adhere. Masking tape is for holding paper in place but be easily removable. Modern Scotch tape works very well. The spindle in Reloadable cassettes usually have a tiny peg that catches on a sprocket hole, which also helps. Be careful not to toss this away when removing film for development. I am speaking of Leitz and Zeiss cassettes, don’t know about others.

 

[Sirius Glass]

To clarify.

I reuse commercial cassettes. I get them from the lab and just reload them. I've rarely had an issue with scratches.

I posted residue which can get sticky and hard to remove. I did not post anything about scratches.

 

[drmoss_ca]

It may have been a combination of freezing and the particular roll of tape. When I load bulk film I tend to do a dozen rolls and put them in a ziplock bag in the door of the film freezer (bag marked so I know what's in there!) I've never had a problem, and this last couple of weeks have used Legacy Pro 100 and 400 films (Acros 100 and Neopan 400) that were loaded years ago. They were fine. But yesterday's Rollei Retro 80 was only loaded two weeks ago and has been in the freezer since. I do let it reach room temp. before it goes in the camera, just to avoid condensation. I felt absolutely no resistance as I wound on and the tape evidently let go of the spindle with no reluctance at all. Mind you, I was outside in -5ºC for an hour, and that might not have helped! Could be the polyester base too, but I've done some conventional films (eg Kentmere 400) with the same tape and had the same problem. I can see I'm going to enjoy some surprises in the coming months as the films loaded with this tape gradually get used and may fail. I don't see myself deconstructing them in a dark tent and trying to replace the tape with scotch tape, so I'll just have to cope.
Thank you for all the thoughtful and helpful replies.

 

[Don_ih]

What do you mean by this?
Sticking the tape to both, base and emulsion side?

Yes - you have to loop the tape around the spool and pinch the film end between the two sticky ends of the tape. If you don't, the tape will wind off the film when the camera winds.

The very first bulk roll I loaded, I put in a Canon slr that preloads all the film (then reloads it back on the spool as it advances). I didn't have it taped correctly and all the film went off the spool.

 

[VinceInMT]

I’ve used whatever I’ve had, usually masking tape, but have been using white artist tape for the past couple years. What I like about it is that it’s a bit thicker than masking tape so easier to feel and peel up in the dark.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Looping the tape is critical, regardless of the tape.

 

[Duceman]

I also store mine frozen until just prior to shooting; have never had the film separate from the spool.

 

[drmoss_ca]

Looks like my error is in not making the tape stick to both sides of the film. Perhaps very good and sticky tape will forgive this error, but poor tape will not. Thus, one learns.