Home developing and using affinity photo c41.

Hey everyone I'm new here so I'm not sure if this has been a tread before. But I was wondering if any one else uses affinity photo to edit negative scans. If you use PS I'd like to ask how much alterations would be too much or is there a base line of how much you should tweek?

What are some of your work flow step with affinity.
Also when you scan what is a good dpi level to scan at I have a Epson 4470 perfection.
And what are a good inexpensive and good high grade photo printing services
Thanks yall

the rule of thumb about how much is enough and not too much is don't do much ... if you poke around the gallery
you will notice that people just invert, crop/straighten and do levels ( maybe ) and that is it .. no acrobatics ...
the gallery uploads section has guidelines ...
i wish i could help you with the affinity photo but their customer service is so bad i didnt' buy the product.
i did manage a free trial and it is the same as PS in that respect, invert, crop/dust/straighten levels ( maybe )
you can just save your file, but not "save for the web" so even though it might be saved at a small resolution you might
have to follow one of their tutorials to save it smaller ...

regarding your scanner, it depends how large you want the print to be ...
if you want giant prints you have to scan it at a big size ( and it doesn't need to be the max size your scanner can pump out ),
small prints a smaller size ( jpg scans are just fine ) ..

just remember you need to scan it bigger than your final size, and the printer will only print at 300dpi
so if you scan at 9600DPI and give your lab a 8x10@9600DPI the extra resolution won't matter
especially when the printer will scale it down to 300dpi. if you were making something 6 or 7 times that size
then it would matter, besides do you want your hard drive cluttered up with giant files
that are hard to work with in affinity ? i sure wouldn't ...
... i have a lab down the street from me i email files to
she is really good .. maybe you have a local lab you can help keep in business too ?

Curlypengling said:

Hey everyone I'm new here so I'm not sure if this has been a tread before. But I was wondering if any one else uses affinity photo to edit negative scans. If you use PS I'd like to ask how much alterations would be too much or is there a base line of how much you should tweek?

What are some of your work flow step with affinity.
Also when you scan what is a good dpi level to scan at I have a Epson 4470 perfection.
And what are a good inexpensive and good high grade photo printing services
Thanks yall

Click to expand...

Well - I have no scanner but I read lots
of scanner tests.

Two scanner let us mention in very
short : 1 ) Nikon Coolpix 9000
2 ) Hasselblatt Imacon
Flextight x5

The first was not bad for $2000,- some
years ago.
To many the utimative scanner.

I would not see this - but the Nikon is not
bad of cause.

The second was priced first over $30000,-
The later models are somewhere in the near of $24000 hmmmmm?
Ultimative quality? Some say Nikon is as good as it. I don't believe so.
Both scanners are in work to my lab.
A kollege has had the Hasselblatt at his
Hightschool - remarkeble a $30000
scanner at school !!
Comming to outstanding quality scanners : "Heidelberg Drumm Scanners"
out of the 80th in the near of first
$280000 well notice: not $28000
you have to add a 0.
These scanners (made some in the mid.
90 with "Heidelberg") should have a quality witch is not able to scan most
information of films.
THE rate is in the near of only 50%.
Never now what is the comparison to
modern Hasselblatt thinking it is somewhere behind Heidelberg.
But not so much behind - I would say.

Short answer to your question now :

ALLWAYS THE HIGHEST RESOLUTION
LEVEL YOU CAN GET.
ALLWAYS WORK WITH UNCOMPRIMED DATAS (TIFF)

At least choise your JPEG Resolution in the rates you need.

TO archive scan datas : ALLWAYS UNCOMPRESSED.


with regards and of cause WELLCOME

jnanian said:

the rule of thumb about how much is enough and not too much is don't do much ... if you poke around the gallery
you will notice that people just invert, crop/straighten and do levels ( maybe ) and that is it .. no acrobatics ...
the gallery uploads section has guidelines ...
i wish i could help you with the affinity photo but their customer service is so bad i didnt' buy the product.
i did manage a free trial and it is the same as PS in that respect, invert, crop/dust/straighten levels ( maybe )
you can just save your file, but not "save for the web" so even though it might be saved at a small resolution you might
have to follow one of their tutorials to save it smaller ...

regarding your scanner, it depends how large you want the print to be ...
if you want giant prints you have to scan it at a big size ( and it doesn't need to be the max size your scanner can pump out ),
small prints a smaller size ( jpg scans are just fine ) ..

just remember you need to scan it bigger than your final size, and the printer will only print at 300dpi
so if you scan at 9600DPI and give your lab a 8x10@9600DPI the extra resolution won't matter
especially when the printer will scale it down to 300dpi. if you were making something 6 or 7 times that size
then it would matter, besides do you want your hard drive cluttered up with giant files
that are hard to work with in affinity ? i sure wouldn't ...
... i have a lab down the street from me i email files to
she is really good .. maybe you have a local lab you can help keep in business too ?

Click to expand...

Ok cool thanks, yeah like I mainly just do scratch and lint, levels /curves just to get the skin tones right and that's about it. But I wonder if when I do that I take away any quirks of the film color or not.

Curlypengling said:

Hey everyone I'm new here so I'm not sure if this has been a tread before. But I was wondering if any one else uses affinity photo to edit negative scans. If you use PS I'd like to ask how much alterations would be too much or is there a base line of how much you should tweek?

What are some of your work flow step with affinity.
Also when you scan what is a good dpi level to scan at I have a Epson 4470 perfection.
And what are a good inexpensive and good high grade photo printing services
Thanks yall

Click to expand...

Oh - to much sorry for bad translation.

You don't wanted to know what is possible the best resolution to scan negatives with your epson scanner - I think you know this - sorry again.
You asked about the resolution of scans for an upload prind service.

Ok you would like have best results on prints - may be big prints ?

I don't like these upload print services - but never mind.

1) ask to the print dpi resolution of the service of your choise. It should be 300 dpi ( print resolution )
2) ask of the restrictions to uploads due to resolution - ask for max. upload resolution (MP - in concerns of your image size may be posters ? )
3) use your software - it is in every picture software ( example " Lightroom" ) there just search your dpi calculator
4) you will easily find the resolution of your picture size due to print resolution in 300dpi : IN MEGAPIXEL
5) alternative you can just calculate your size in 200dpi print resolution and just have a look in MEGAPIXEL

6) If the max. upload is in example 20 Megapixel in datas for your picture and you will have a poster in 40x50 and Lightroom says 58 MP in 300dpi
just forget this service because they have no prints in 300dpi or thes work with extrapolation of your datas ( very bad )
AS ALTERNATIVE TO THIS METHOD you can just prepare your datas in resolution on 300dpi in concern to your print size and try an upload.

If it will not work forget that service - as I mentioned before : I dont like them so much but make your experience.

Print resolution with good quality is ALLWAYS at 300dpi. My lab has got one of these phantastic AGFA PRINTERS with 400dpi resolution.

If you can afford it lets make a native print ( some specialist came out everywhere ) for example as very big prints with common ( visual )
darkroom printers. ( best quality but rather expensive )


with regards

Curlypengling said:

Ok cool thanks, yeah like I mainly just do scratch and lint, levels /curves just to get the skin tones right and that's about it. But I wonder if when I do that I take away any quirks of the film color or not.

Click to expand...

sounds good

i would imagine color levels are the same a printer does in the enlarger head to get a good image
so you are pretty good. regarding the quirks of film .. if you were loading film backwards
to do red-scale film and then you decided you didn't like the red scale so you went into the mixing area
and removed the heavy red and orange coloration that process is known for, that is one thing, or if you
tweek your normal c41 film to make it look like it was cross processed in e6 chemistry too .. but it seems
like you are doing regular stuff .. and from what i understand that's fine for uploading in the gallery,
as long as you have a subscription ( can't post to the gallery otherwise ). when you find a printer, you might ask if you need to do anything
special to your files, some systems need files to be a certain way so they look the way
you want ... ooh, make sure your screen brightness is pretty low that can be a major problem .. your vivid bright lovely image
arrives at your printer looking totally different ...
have fun!

The scanning process changes the appearance of the negative - scanners frequently do a lot of manipulation of which the user is not aware.
Adjusting curves also changes the character of the film.
On the other hand, printing a negative also involves filters and can change the appearance of the image.
If you are happy with your results, that is all that matters.

If using an online printer service, make sure you use the service's preferred color space. Most services can convert, but if not your colors may be "off". Also, many services will "correct" images you have already corrected, sometimes with bad results.

Wallendo said:

The scanning process changes the appearance of the negative - scanners frequently do a lot of manipulation of which the user is not aware.
Adjusting curves also changes the character of the film.
On the other hand, printing a negative also involves filters and can change the appearance of the image.
If you are happy with your results, that is all that matters.

If using an online printer service, make sure you use the service's preferred color space. Most services can convert, but if not your colors may be "off". Also, many services will "correct" images you have already corrected, sometimes with bad results.

Click to expand...

Exactly you said it.
Well I never have had one of these Services.
Only worked with proffessional graphik
secialists - and I just forget it - most Diskussion were with correct color spare
and calibrations of Monitor es a.s o.

with regards

Wallendo said:

The scanning process changes the appearance of the negative - scanners frequently do a lot of manipulation of which the user is not aware.
Adjusting curves also changes the character of the film.
On the other hand, printing a negative also involves filters and can change the appearance of the image.
If you are happy with your results, that is all that matters.

If using an online printer service, make sure you use the service's preferred color space. Most services can convert, but if not your colors may be "off". Also, many services will "correct" images you have already corrected, sometimes with bad results.

Click to expand...

Cool yeah thank you for that I just been over thinking the whole being true to the film but I guess you need to make it look good but not crazy. And a question how would be a good way to be able to keep consistency with scans and edits ex if I'm shooting building or street photography and the sky color shifts. How would be a good way to keep it consistent and have to colors flow together and not make have a blue green sky vs a light blue sky. I know it might be just simple edits but I'd like to hear what tips you might have if you have encountered this

Hi there,
The Affinity Photo has an 'Export Persona' with the possibility of outputting multiple versions of the same file at the same time i.e. 72ppi or 144ppi (@2x) for retina screens, print resolution and choices of file format/compression etc – you could make as many versions for different needs all at the click of one tab. Add in exporting slices at the same time it becomes a very powerful facility.
Matching colors? There used to be IT8 profile targets of films so that the scan could be a fairly faithful reproduction of the neg but that wouldn't take into account the color of the actual scene e.g. the building will look different colors at dawn, midday, in the shade, in the sunlight etc but I doubt this is news to you!
Have 'fun' with the scanning!

Uhhhmmmm... where are the "take this thread over to DPUG" people?

fdonadio said:

Uhhhmmmm... where are the "take this thread over to DPUG" people?

Click to expand...

Biting our tongues.
So in order to reduce the pain, I may as well ...
Welcome to APUG. I hope you enjoy your stay.
You should know though that scanning discussions are discouraged here on APUG. They are actually against the site's rules (with some tiny exceptions). APUG is very intentionally narrowly focused on the non-digital versions of photography. There is a much quieter sister site - DPUG.ORG - where scanning discussions are encouraged.
The two sites are being upgraded by their owner - Sean - to permit more flexibility to those who wish to work in both worlds, but for now in order to access DPUG you will need to register there. You can use the same user name.
This thread will most likely be closed by a moderator, but don't take it personally.

Thanks, @MattKing! You said it in a way I could never do.

MattKing said:

Biting our tongues.
So in order to reduce the pain, I may as well ...
Welcome to APUG. I hope you enjoy your stay.
You should know though that scanning discussions are discouraged here on APUG. They are actually against the site's rules (with some tiny exceptions). APUG is very intentionally narrowly focused on the non-digital versions of photography. There is a much quieter sister site - DPUG.ORG - where scanning discussions are encouraged.
The two sites are being upgraded by their owner - Sean - to permit more flexibility to those who wish to work in both worlds, but for now in order to access DPUG you will need to register there. You can use the same user name.
This thread will most likely be closed by a moderator, but don't take it personally.

Click to expand...

:/ thanks hopefully you guys make a Hpug hybrid photography user group. I don't really want to go to a digital side because sometimes the feel is different . Like they might be just stuck on the digital side and not understand the vision of using film

Just to clarify for the OP

[jnanian] and the printer will only print at 300dpi so if you scan at 9600DPI and give your lab a 8x10@9600DPI the extra resolution won't matter especially when the printer will scale it down to 300dpi.

Click to expand...

The scan dpi (9600 in the quoted fragment) and the print dpi (300 in the quoted fragment) are like apples and oranges. A 8x10 inch print at 300 dpi is a linear enlargement of about 8x relative to a 1x1.5 inch (approx) negative, so you need to scan at 8x300=2400dpi. And these 2400dpi, yes they are larger than the print's 300dpi, but they are not wasted, they are needed.

bernard_L said:

Just to clarify for the OP

The scan dpi (9600 in the quoted fragment) and the print dpi (300 in the quoted fragment) are like apples and oranges. A 8x10 inch print at 300 dpi is a linear enlargement of about 8x relative to a 1x1.5 inch (approx) negative, so you need to scan at 8x300=2400dpi. And these 2400dpi, yes they are larger than the print's 300dpi, but they are not wasted, they are needed.

Click to expand...

hi bernard L---
i understand what you are saying, but while they are not wasted, because information is information and the more information the merrier,
scanning something at 9600 dpi to be printed as a 4x6 or 5x7 or 8x10 image is pretty much a waste of time, first no image needs to be scanned at such a high resolution unless
it is going to be some sort of massive image and even then .... ( i just had 4 prints printed for a client at 42x69" and none of them were scanned at such a high resolution ) ... its a waste of energy
not only because files that are 2 or 3 gigabites are nearly impossible to work on, but to reduce down to a 300dpi 4x6 ? that is like uploading a 600000x800000 9600 dpi image to be uploaded onto APUG or another place on
the internet when there are size constraints, and it is a waste of effort to upload something that large
unless, of course it is a service bureau that will make a large print....

YMMV

Curlypengling said:

:/ thanks hopefully you guys make a Hpug hybrid photography user group. I don't really want to go to a digital side because sometimes the feel is different . Like they might be just stuck on the digital side and not understand the vision of using film

Click to expand...

DPUG was formally named Hybrid Photo. Although quiet, it continues to be oriented toward those who mix film and digital elements in their photography. Most posters over there seem to be members here as well.