Home Brew Water Chiller

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Beevo

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Having gotten back into the darkroom after a 10+ year hiatus I remembered my frustration with getting water at a specific temperature for the developer. Not so much of a problem during the winter, but summertime temperatures coming out of the tap caused me to get a tub of water and toss ice in until I got the temperature I desired.

The results are a 2 gallon reservoir of water held at any desired temperature.

Components are a 2 gallon water jug with a dispensing spout and a fish tank chiller from amazon.

Chiller.JPG
I then used my laser engraver to cut a new lid from some 1/4" acrylic sheet. I then 3D printed three pieces to keep the lid located on the top of the jug. I had decided the screw on lid would be a PITA and threw it away. One of the locating bits had holes for plastic tubing. I also created a fitting for a fill hole.

img_20240203_110334973_hdr_std.jpg img_20240203_110357272_hdr_std.jpg img_20240203_111812497_std.jpg

The 3D parts were printed in PETG which can be solvent welded to the acrylic sheet. two thin wall 5/16" OD tubes were pressed through the bulkhead. This was laid on top of the jug. a small fish tank pump sits in the bottom of the jug and the temperature sensor for the chiller is tie wrapped to the cord.

The pump circulates water through the chiller and them returns it to the jug. The controls on the chiller allow retaining the temperature to 0.1 degree. If the water gets too cold the chiller reverses polarity on the thermo electric units to heat the water.

img_20240203_113731371_std.jpg

The chiller turns off the fans and TEC modules when the water is the correct temperature. In effect the unit could be left turned on 24/7. The chiller will only cycle on for a minute or so every 15-20 minutes during my observations so far.

The unit will bring the water to temp in 15 minutes or so based on the starting temperature.
 
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Beevo

Beevo

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Well for $110 and returnable via Amazon (which I rarely do) there was little risk. I figured they claimed it was big enough to chill 20 gallons (IIRC) 2 gallons in an insulated container should be a piece of pie.

So far works great!
 
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Beevo

Beevo

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This is the specific unit I chose:
I am sure this would work fine on the JoBo. I had kinda thought about adding one to my CPE2+ as well
 
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This is the specific unit I chose:
I am sure this would work fine on the JoBo. I had kinda thought about adding one to my CPE2+ as well

For some reason, when attempting to insert links to amazon, PHOTRIO only displays the logo. I looked through chillers at amazon and suspect the one you bought is described as

"Aquarium Chiller,Aquarium 10 Gallon Chiller Fish Tank Cooler System, Compact Small Water Chiller for Fish Tank 35l, Quiet for Home Fish Shrimp Breeding Aquaculture"

Is that the one?
 

Kino

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My problem is I need it in line with a tempering valve when tap water temps rise above 68F/20C in the summer.

Guess I am stuck with trying to find a commercial chiller...
 
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Beevo

Beevo

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For some reason, when attempting to insert links to amazon, PHOTRIO only displays the logo. I looked through chillers at amazon and suspect the one you bought is described as

"Aquarium Chiller,Aquarium 10 Gallon Chiller Fish Tank Cooler System, Compact Small Water Chiller for Fish Tank 35l, Quiet for Home Fish Shrimp Breeding Aquaculture"

Is that the one?

Try googling this number: LZKWca61o5wg8h5293 It will take you to teh unit in Amazon. for 20-30 gallon aquariums.

hth
 
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Beevo

Beevo

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My problem is I need it in line with a tempering valve when tap water temps rise above 68F/20C in the summer.

Guess I am stuck with trying to find a commercial chiller...

It will not chill flowing tap water. I had been looking at this stuff years ago and decided I could rent time in a darkroom cheaper than owning the chiller. LOL
 

peoplemerge

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I looked into something like this to build a cold plunge. Freeze your a__ off and it's good for your health, maybe. Activates your brown fat, supposedly, but there's not yet enough human evidence to confirm it's worthwhile in improving health/longevity.

Nobody asked for a contrarian view, but maybe I can offer you an unsolicited savings of your limited resources of time and treasure.

Last time I used a school darkroom, they kept a water bottle in the freezer. You wash the bottle just to be safe, dunk it into your developer a couple of times until it reaches 68F, then process. They said if you want to be really dialed in, keep _all_ your chems at the same temp so as to avoid shocking your film. I used to do that dance.

Then I used a commercial darkroom where they said don't bother, just use the temperature chart and adjust your dev time. They swore up and down that after thousands of trials, they always get identical results. They offered HC110 and Clayton F76 and browbeat people who thought F76 was the same as Kodak D76: "development times are different."

The conventional wisdom is the charts just work with all B/W chemicals. I haven't rigorously confirmed it using sensitometric methods but haven't had any reason to.

These days when I process b/w film, I just rely on the time/temp calculator in the Massive Dev app.
 
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