Pat, I did try to figure out the difference between the 'cloudy' and 'sunny' settings, but I couldn't tell the difference, look like they have the same aperture opening. As for 'B' and tripod socket, they are standard on my un-modified holga.
To add a little bit more fun, the holga now has a different set of filters for flash.
My question is where do you put the cable release?
Alex W.
It doesn't, it's just a square hole far too big to be of any use. I took a piece of soda can, drilled a hole into it then glued it to the square hole to get an aperture of about f19.as the Holga Mod folk say the "cloudy" slide on the Holga doesn't really result in a wider aperture than the "sunny" setting.
Do you think the modifications are effective enough to make them worth the extra cost over the regular 120N sold by Freestyle?
The sunny-cloudy switch is connected: it moves a little arm with a hole in it in front of the fixed aperture hole. The problem is that the hole in the arm is bigger than the fixed aperture it "covers", so it has no effect. If we're to believe the quoted focal length of 60mm, an unmodified Holga has a single functional aperture of f/13.3 (I broke out a ruler and did the math, details here).
Taking them apart isn't particularly hard, but if you're not mechanically inclined, don't have the supplies, or just don't want to bother, I agree with the other folks here, Randy at holgamods.com does a really good job for a really reasonable price, and he gets it done fast. My only tip on that is that I have found that I don't need velcro to hold the back on, I just bend the clips tighter with needle-nosed pliers. Every Holga really is different, but I've never had one pop off with tightened clips across maybe 8 of them.
Ok, if my "cloudy" aperture is really f13 and not f8, then my smaller "sunny" aperture (as modified by Randy) can't be f11, as claimed. It must be smaller than f13...so what two apertures does a Holgamods Hoga really have?
First roll will be FP4+ in Rodinal 1:100, Semi-stand (1 hour, 2 inversions initially and one inverstion at the 30-minute mark). The next roll will probably be Tri-X with a slight push in HC110-B (I usually use dilution H, but for pushing, it will be B instead.)
You may find the FP4+ too slow, depending on what you're shooting. I generally shoot Tri-X (400), sometimes HP5+, and always give it an extra minute or two in the developer. For color, I shoot Portra 400 and ask for a one-stop push. YMMV, but that's what works for me.
I hear you. Well, I guess I'll just have to experiment then. I'd like to use up the FP4+ before standardizing on Tri-X, so I'll test a roll and then not be surprised if I find I have to push the FP4+. I have a couple rolls of Fuji 400HG to test also. Can't wait for the Holga to get here. The order confirmation message said it might be 10-14 days due to a back log.
If you want to use slower film, I think Randy will modify the apertures to give you two wider ones than are standard with the camera. If that's an important consideration you might try to contact him.
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