Are you open to the idea of using a flash meter to measure exposure, and setting the camera shutter and aperture manually? A monolight or powerpack strobe would be an option for you in this case.
What genre of images are you making? Portraits, still life and table top/product photography lens themselves well to the monolight and powerpack systems. There are more modifiers available if you look beyond a hammerhead or speedlight.
Clearly the Metz 60 is a step up,...
The Metz has GNm 60. The Sunpak 622 super-pro has 60. The Braun F900 has 62.
But that's about it.
However the Sunpak is even a integrated device, the other two got a seperate battery/generator.
The Metz 76 has GNm of about 45.
Do not let you fool by the designations.
After the type 45 flashes Metz, as other manufacturers, related the guide number to the smallest lighting angle a flash offers.
The Metz has GNm 60. The Sunpak 622 super-pro has 60. The Braun F900 has 62.
But that's about it.
However the Sunpak is even a integrated device, the other two got a seperate battery/generator.
The Metz 76 has GNm of about 45.
Do not let you fool by the designations.
After the type 45 flashes Metz, as other manufacturers, related the guide number to the smallest lighting angle a flash offers.
Wait, are you saying that the Metz 60 is not any more powerful than the 45 when compared at normal lighting angles? Because I thought it was.
I have a few Metz units but it's a no brainer.
Just get yourself proper studio flash units and a flash meter, I use Bowens and Elinchrom but there's plenty of cheaper alternatives.e days. If a mains unit isn't enough try flash bulbs but that's going back to the Ark.
Ian
The Metz 60 is about the most powerful flash you can get with a 35mm. The Sunpak 622 has about the same power. The Metz 76 has less power but if you bounce you may be able to get away by zooming to a focal length longer than the lens. For example if you use a 35mm lens when bounce you may be able to use the 80mm zoom setting.
If you really want to "gun and run" then you need to use TTL and let the flash electronics do all the calculating for you. Why are you making it hard on yourself?
If you really want to "gun and run" then you need to use TTL and let the flash electronics do all the calculating for you. Why are you making it hard on yourself?
I can't find that attachment.With the Metz 60 you can zoom too, but that attachment is extremely bulky.
Thus here wins the Sunpak again.
And it offers TTL control.
With the Metz 60 you can zoom too, but that attachment is extremely bulky.
Thus here wins the Sunpak again.
And it offers TTL control.
Don't need to do any calculating with a non TTL flash.If you really want to "gun and run" then you need to use TTL and let the flash electronics do all the calculating for you. Why are you making it hard on yourself?
Just a thought, as Matt pointed out you lose a lot of light bouncing off the ceiling. The portable softboxes (mounted on the camera with the flash) prevents the very harsh shadows of a straight on flash blitz while reducing the light loss. I have one that mounts a foot or so above the camera allowing a little modeling. Might be worth a try.carry your own reflector - bulky, but a bit more efficient and flexible than depending on ceilings and walls and floors.
I always got great results relying on the built-in auto flash in the Metz flashes.
I can't find that attachment.
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