Correct! Kentmere films have a grey/blue base, much denser than any other film I've seen. I believe this reduces halation without costing as much as a more typical anti halation layer.
It's not in the image layer, so it's not something that will affect the result, other than making your exposures about one stop longer.
Forgive me if you've already said what type of fix you are using, I've read through and can't spot it. But if it's something like Ilford Rapid Fix it can literally go off overnight, it works one day then quits the next, even before it starts to smell or look 'off'. It can however be long lasting especially if you use a stop bath which makes the whole thing about going off deceptive.
Forgive me if you've already said what type of fix you are using, I've read through and can't spot it. But if it's something like Ilford Rapid Fix it can literally go off overnight, it works one day then quits the next, even before it starts to smell or look 'off'. It can however be long lasting especially if you use a stop bath which makes the whole thing about going off deceptive.
My protocol is, develop, 30 sec stop and then Ilford 1+4 Rapid Fixer for 3-4 mins. I also test fixer before each time I put it in a tank with a scrap film and if the clearing time pass 1:30, then I disregard it. To be honest for 5 years that I have started to develop film, I’ve never seen it took longer than 1:30 to clear the film but sometimes I just prepare a new one because it’s been a while
PS I have stripped emulsion part of some scrap film, indeed I can get 0.05 to 0.07 density, pure for plastic, which is normal I think. Also I have tested further scrap film, some has as low as 0.2 HP5 120 some has 0.4 K400 35mm
Is Clorox a bleach technically? Sorry I am in UK and keep googling about it
PS I have stripped emulsion part of some scrap film, indeed I can get 0.05 to 0.07 density, pure for plastic, which is normal I think. Also I have tested further scrap film, some has as low as 0.2 HP5 120 some has 0.4 K400 35mm
All in all I dont think it does effect my printing except the higher the base+fog density, the more exposure it needs to reach max black.
Just a thought but it is always worthwhile to put England after Birmingham Nearly all respondents are U.S. based and there is a Birmingham in Alabama so you'll get U.S. names for chemicals/household goods and U.S. sources as well. If it is clear that you are U.K. based then that gives the U.S. respondents a chance to say what Clorox does or mention the actual chemicals used in it so you can find the U.K. equivalent or at least have a better chance
Just a thought but it is always worthwhile to put England after Birmingham Nearly all respondents are U.S. based and there is a Birmingham in Alabama so you'll get U.S. names for chemicals/household goods and U.S. sources as well. If it is clear that you are U.K. based then that gives the U.S. respondents a chance to say what Clorox does or mention the actual chemicals used in it so you can find the U.K. equivalent or at least have a better chance
High base density also affects our ability to visually assess our negatives.
That isn't in any way an insurmountable challenge - but it does take some practice.
Yes, and I just find the look of these negatives a bit off-putting, to be honest. Superficial, I know. But i do this for fun and looking at freshly dried negatives is part of the fun. The dark base also doesn't seem to be a very good antihalation measure, I've seem some halation with K400.